I think I've become culprit of rattling e-brake cables
#1
I think I've become culprit of rattling e-brake cables
So I replaced my frozen rear brake caliper about 3 months ago and I got into my car today and heard a rattle that sounded like metal on metal. So I stopped immediately and tested if my wheel nuts were secure and also flexed the suspension to see if I could notice any problems with my bushings. Everything looked to be in working order except I have always experienced wear on the inside of my tires due to what I believe to be old upper control arms. So I kept driving and thought about how the only thing I have ever changed on the side that was making noise is the brake caliper, so I pulled the emergency brake and all of the clunking noises went away. I have heard some people getting rid of this noise with grease, but I am just trying to figure out wtf is actually making such a crazy noise and how it could be coming from a brake cable! I just don't really understand where the brake cable makes a metal on metal contact other than on the actual caliper itself and what I should do to fix this annoying noise. As always, I really appreciate everyone's help on this issue!
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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disguay, the problem isn't the brake cable itself but the pads. If you get a little bit of spacing between the pad and the rotor (more than about 1/32"), the pads will wobble inside the mount and bounce between the rotor and the caliper. This is the noise that you are hearing. Hence why when you applied the e-brake, you are removing that space and gently pressing the pad into the rotor, preventing it from bouncing.
As for the fix, it will cost you about $5 and a half hour of your time. You need to go to the auto parts store and find some stuff called "disc pad glue". The stuff I have comes in a 4 ounce bottle and is red in color. But, you may find it in a few other colors too. Essentially this stuff is high temp RTV. What it does is it glues the back of the pad to the caliper (or piston of the caliper). By doing this, the pad can not bounce between the rotor and caliper, removing the noise. If you are worried about not being able to get the pad off later, don't be. It doesn't stick the pad that good. You remove the caliper and a little jolt from a screw driver or something of the like and the glue comes undone. Cleaning the caliper back up is nothing more than a quick brush with a wire brush (which I recommend anyways to atleast clean up the area where the pads slide in the caliper/mount).
As for the fix, it will cost you about $5 and a half hour of your time. You need to go to the auto parts store and find some stuff called "disc pad glue". The stuff I have comes in a 4 ounce bottle and is red in color. But, you may find it in a few other colors too. Essentially this stuff is high temp RTV. What it does is it glues the back of the pad to the caliper (or piston of the caliper). By doing this, the pad can not bounce between the rotor and caliper, removing the noise. If you are worried about not being able to get the pad off later, don't be. It doesn't stick the pad that good. You remove the caliper and a little jolt from a screw driver or something of the like and the glue comes undone. Cleaning the caliper back up is nothing more than a quick brush with a wire brush (which I recommend anyways to atleast clean up the area where the pads slide in the caliper/mount).
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Charlie Smith (05-19-2012)
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