Hi I’ve done a fair bit of searching but can’t find anyone with the same issue.
All of a sudden the indicators on our 2006 2.2 x type stopped working. We then noticed main beam isn’t working either along with intermittent wipe.
However hazard lights work ok outside the car fine, although the lights on the dashboard don’t flash in time with the hazards and often stop altogether whilst the hazards continue to flash fine.
Tried several things, replaced fuse F35 but since worked out can’t be this as hazards share this fuse.
Replaced the indicator/main beam stalk.
One sweep wipe and all other wipe functions work.
Put the lights on dip and fog lights on and then flash full beam the fog lights stay illuminated.
Read people ask are the interior lights and electric windows working which they are.
Sorry a lot of information but anyone got any idea where to look next?
Thanks.

 

Philpy, if you can flash your main beams and the fog lights remain on, you have crossed wires inside the fuse box (unless wires have melted together in the engine bay). I say this because the main beams and fog lights share a common relay. For the fog lights to get power, the relay cannot have power applied to the pick up coil. If you apply power to the pick up coil, then a switch flips, disconnecting the fog lights from any source of power and applies the power that was going to the fog lights, to the main beams. The only place these 2 wires are close to each other is in the fuse box and possibly in the harness near the fuse box. The only other possibility is you have a failed headlight switch and you have power getting crossed inside the switch. This would result in the fog lights being able to get power when the main beams are on.

Now, for your hazzards to do funny things, this pretty much only leaves the GEM module as the culprit. The hazzard switch simply sends a grounded indication to the GEM module. When the GEM module sees this input get grounded, it then starts pulsing power to all the turn signal lights. There is then an electronic message that is sent up to the instrument cluster that tells the cluster to indicate that the hazzard lights are on and that they are off (ie, a message is sent every time they turn on and every time they turn off). So, if you have the hazzards working correctly on the outside of the car, yet inside they are doing funny things, this is really only the GEM or the instrument cluster (can't see it being the data wiring between as you would have a ton of other issues).

So, with all that has been said, based on past experience, I am thinking you have 2 issues, a bad headlight switch and broken solder joints on the instrument cluster plug.

 

Thanks Thermo, appreciate it,
so to be clear put the lights on dip and fog lights on, flash the full beam and nothing changes, full beam DOESNT come on and fogs stay on.

With regard to the hazards they flash fine on the outside but on the dash they sometimes flash correctly sometimes nothing and sometimes the green lights stay on.
yet the indicators on there own do nothing.

funny you suggest headlight switch as earlier whilst pulling it out to activate fogs it suddenly started behaving for about 10 seconds..?

 

Philpy, Lets start by treating the headlights and the hazzards as 2 separate issues (we may find that they are related later, but this will simplify things). Lets start with accessing the engine bay fuse box and swapping relays R1 (main/fog light relay) and R2 (horn relay). Get into the car and attempt to honk the horn and then also run the headlights through all the possible combinations (dips and fog, dips only, dips and fog with pulling of lever for flash to pass, dips and fog with pushing of lever for full time main). Do the lights work properly and the horn doesn't? If so, the relay that is now in the R2 spot is bad and needs replaced. If the lights do not work properly, remove relay R1 and using a small piece of wire (6 cm) with the ends stripped back about 1 cm on each end, stick the wires in the openings labeled 3 and 5 in the R1 opening (may need to look on the relay for the markings, they are small, but they will be on the openings/terminals). With the wire installed, do the main beams come on? If no, then swap fuses F1 and F2 (both should be 10 amp fuses). Did the right hand side only main beam come on? If yes, you have 2 bad fuses (original fuse that was in the R1 location and also in the R4 location). Lets see what you have after the new fuses. With the jumper wire installed and the main lights coming on, remove the jumper and then using a multimeter, measure resistance between pin 2 and the chassis. It should read something very low (under 5 ohms). If you get a high reading, your ground wire between relay R1 and the chassis is bad. Repair.

If we are at this point and the main beams are still not working, then we are looking most likely at a bad GEM module. Just to confirm, we are going to use the multimeter and measuring VDC, with the turn signal stalk pushed to keep the main beams on, see if you have 12 VDC on Pin 1. You should not based on the problem. If you do have 12 VDC, then we have a pin in the fuse box that has expanded and is not making good connection. This is where you are going to have to look closely at each terminal inside the fuse box and see which terminal(s) look expanded and then work on getting the clip out and tweaking it to close it back up.

Your statement about the headlights working correctly playing with the headlight switch has me pondering. Your main beams have nothing to do with the headlight switch. There are no wires that run from the headlight switch to the GEM or the main beams. Granted, if wiggling the headlight switch causes the main beams to work, I would be pulling out the headlight switch and looking at the wiring behind the switch to see what is wiggling and pushing all the connectors back there together. Worst case, replace the headlight switch as that seems to somehow affect things (granted, not sure why).

Switching back to the hazzards. We don't have a lot of potential suspects here. Lets start with activating your hazzards and making sure that all 4 corners of the car have flashing lights. With all 4 corners flashing, make a fist and smack the dash just above the instrument cluster. Did this cause the instrument cluster to do something funny and/or cause the hazzard lights to blink properly on the instrument cluster. If so, then odds are you have broken solder joints on the instrument cluster. If not, then I would say that you need to access the GEM module and remove the plugs to the GEM module 1 at a time and inspect the pins. What you are looking for is discolored pins (they will look brown/black, possibly even rusty). If you find this, then that is your problem most likely. All the pins should be straight and have a silvery appearance to them. If you find a discolored pin, use a scribe or other small tool to scrape the pin to remove any discoloration.

At this point, if both the hazzards are still not working and you reached a point where you did everything I said for the headlights, but they are not working either, this pretty much only leaves the GEM module as the problem.

 

Hi Thermo, it’s my Dads car and I’ve only now had time to look. Now the battery is completely flat even though the car was starting a few days ago. Looks like something is draining it?
Also when attempting to jump start it I noticed main beam on there own came on? Then after say 20 seconds went off?
what would cause main beam to come on, on there own?

 

Based on what you are describing, this is sounding a lot like a bad GEM. With all the issues you are having with the turn signals and the headlights, the only commonality is the turn signal stalk (which you replaced) and the GEM. GEMs are known to be a weak link in these cars.

 

I’m beginning to think the same, unfortunately as the battery was so flat I couldn’t do much testing you had suggested. Had to charge it up for several hours.

Due to the fact the indicators, main beam, and intermittent wipe are doing strange things, mostly not working, I think I’m right in saying all of these things are controlled by the Gem?

Can’t find a guide to remove the Gem, is there one? Doesn’t look to hard to remove?
think I read the keys will need repairing?

 

Philpy, look at the top of the X-Type page. There is a service manual there for you to download. That will have all the instructions you need. Most people just call it the JTIS.

 

Sorry to drag this up. We gave up and took the car to an auto electrician. He spent several hours on it, and is stumped.
He is saying there should be a feed from the cluster to the GEM and this isnt present? His suggestion is a replacement set of clocks? Would faulty clocks/cluster cause these issues?

 

PHilpy, I would be looking at the GEM Module before going after the instrument cluster. The GEM modules in these cars have been known to get water on them and then they do funny things. Besides, replacing the instrument cluster requires a dealership level computer because it will need to be programmed to the car to allow the security system to function properly.

 

Sorry I forgot to say. I replaced the GEM. And the problem was identical

 

PHilpy, I want to break this down and do a few tests. I am not sure how many problems we have and possibly they may all be related some how. I want to start with something easy and obvious. I want you to open the hood/bonnet of the car and remove the R1 and R11 relays in the fuse box there. This should cause all of the headlights to not work. At this point, with the battery charged up, attempt to turn on the headlights, flash the main beams, try to turn on the headlights every way possible. If you get the headlights to come on in any way, then the next step is to unbolt the fuse box and to start hand over handing the wiring, looking for damaged wiring. You will need to follow the wiring back to the firewall. Once you find the connector at the firewall, then you will want to disconnect that connector and look at the insides. All the pins should be a nice shiny color. If you see a dark spot, PROBLEM!!!!!!. If you don't see anything on the outside, then jump to the inside of the car and follow the wiring to the interior fuse box. If you see damaged wiring (or exposed copper), PROBLEM.

Lets see what you find with this simple check and then we can start probing deeper.