Installation of water pump 02 Jaguar X type
#41
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dale, replacing the water pump is a pretty straight forward job. yes, the water pump is on the driver's side of the engine and it sounds like where your leak is coming from. In short, what you need to do is this:
1) remove the battery and battery tray to access the water pump
2) You will now see a belt with 3 pulleys on it, 1 pulley has a cap, one has a single bolt on it, the last pulley has 3 bolts on it. Loosen the pulley with the single bolt and put some slack in the belt. Remove the belt.
3) Now, remove the 3 bolts on the pulley. This will give you access to remove the water pump.
4) Remove the 8 bolts to the piece with the capped pulley on it. This is the water pump itself.
Now, this all assumes that you have the coolant drained in the first place. This is done by opening the drain valve on the radiator itself. Installation is simply going in reverse. Dont' forget that you need to "burp" the coolant system in this car a special way. It isn't like other cars where you simply fill the system and then run it for a bit. This car involves pinching a hose shut to force the fluid through the engine, forcing the air out of the block. Sounds more difficult than it really is. If you are not familiar with this, let me know and I will give you directions on how to burp the car.
1) remove the battery and battery tray to access the water pump
2) You will now see a belt with 3 pulleys on it, 1 pulley has a cap, one has a single bolt on it, the last pulley has 3 bolts on it. Loosen the pulley with the single bolt and put some slack in the belt. Remove the belt.
3) Now, remove the 3 bolts on the pulley. This will give you access to remove the water pump.
4) Remove the 8 bolts to the piece with the capped pulley on it. This is the water pump itself.
Now, this all assumes that you have the coolant drained in the first place. This is done by opening the drain valve on the radiator itself. Installation is simply going in reverse. Dont' forget that you need to "burp" the coolant system in this car a special way. It isn't like other cars where you simply fill the system and then run it for a bit. This car involves pinching a hose shut to force the fluid through the engine, forcing the air out of the block. Sounds more difficult than it really is. If you are not familiar with this, let me know and I will give you directions on how to burp the car.
Hey thermo great write up. I'm actually going to be doing this job this morning. I have an 04 x-type which is pretty sentimental because I was left to my byu my grandmother who passed away several years back. I first was scared to work on it but recently done a few jobs on it which have given me some confidence. But anyways I bought a new water pump with lifetime warranty from AutoZone and it came with its own gasket kinda like paper. I was wondering if I should use these by themself or should I add some sort of gasket maker or anything with it. Your them man on here so figured I'd ask thanks
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Lcgi (03-30-2020)
#42
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dale, replacing the water pump is a pretty straight forward job. yes, the water pump is on the driver's side of the engine and it sounds like where your leak is coming from. In short, what you need to do is this:
1) remove the battery and battery tray to access the water pump
2) You will now see a belt with 3 pulleys on it, 1 pulley has a cap, one has a single bolt on it, the last pulley has 3 bolts on it. Loosen the pulley with the single bolt and put some slack in the belt. Remove the belt.
3) Now, remove the 3 bolts on the pulley. This will give you access to remove the water pump.
4) Remove the 8 bolts to the piece with the capped pulley on it. This is the water pump itself.
Now, this all assumes that you have the coolant drained in the first place. This is done by opening the drain valve on the radiator itself. Installation is simply going in reverse. Dont' forget that you need to "burp" the coolant system in this car a special way. It isn't like other cars where you simply fill the system and then run it for a bit. This car involves pinching a hose shut to force the fluid through the engine, forcing the air out of the block. Sounds more difficult than it really is. If you are not familiar with this, let me know and I will give you directions on how to burp the car.
1) remove the battery and battery tray to access the water pump
2) You will now see a belt with 3 pulleys on it, 1 pulley has a cap, one has a single bolt on it, the last pulley has 3 bolts on it. Loosen the pulley with the single bolt and put some slack in the belt. Remove the belt.
3) Now, remove the 3 bolts on the pulley. This will give you access to remove the water pump.
4) Remove the 8 bolts to the piece with the capped pulley on it. This is the water pump itself.
Now, this all assumes that you have the coolant drained in the first place. This is done by opening the drain valve on the radiator itself. Installation is simply going in reverse. Dont' forget that you need to "burp" the coolant system in this car a special way. It isn't like other cars where you simply fill the system and then run it for a bit. This car involves pinching a hose shut to force the fluid through the engine, forcing the air out of the block. Sounds more difficult than it really is. If you are not familiar with this, let me know and I will give you directions on how to burp the car.
Hey thermo great write up. I'm actually going to be doing this job this morning. I have an 04 x-type which is pretty sentimental because I was left to my byu my grandmother who passed away several years back. I first was scared to work on it but recently done a few jobs on it which have given me some confidence. But anyways I bought a new water pump with lifetime warranty from AutoZone and it came with its own gasket kinda like paper. I was wondering if I should use these by themself or should I add some sort of gasket maker or anything with it. Your them man on here so figured I'd ask thanks
#43
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RSmithJr89, you can use the paper gasket, but use it more as a means to hold the gasket maker in place. I have always used "Permatex" gasket maker and never had any issues. Simply figure out which side goes where on the water pump, then find the side that goes towards the pump. Apply gasket maker to that side and then apply to the water pump. With the gasket now attached to the water pump, apply a little more to the motor side. At this point, you are ready to start re-installing. This makes it so you don't have to try holding the gasket and attempting to line it up with the motor and the pump all at the same time.
Something else that you can think about is I mentioned that there is a special "burping" procedure. Over the years, we have found that you can also simply fill the system as much as you can with a 50/50 mix of water/coolant and then run the car to get it up to temp. Let it run a few more minutes, making sure that you rev the engine a little bit to help force the air out. Once you have worked most of the air out, turn off the engine and let it cool (DO NOT!!!!!! install the coolant bottle cap, simply rest it on top to prevent dirt from getting inside the overflow bottle). Once the engine is cool/cold, top off the overflow bottle and then install the cap. May need to top up the overflow bottle one more time, but normally if you fill it to high in the band, you will be good. The big thing is letting the bottle not form a seal initially. People have found that this will crack the overflow bottle plus it may leave the coolant system at a slight vacuum and this will actually make it easier for the system to overheat as the water will boil more easily. The system is designed to run at a slight pressure.
Something else that you can think about is I mentioned that there is a special "burping" procedure. Over the years, we have found that you can also simply fill the system as much as you can with a 50/50 mix of water/coolant and then run the car to get it up to temp. Let it run a few more minutes, making sure that you rev the engine a little bit to help force the air out. Once you have worked most of the air out, turn off the engine and let it cool (DO NOT!!!!!! install the coolant bottle cap, simply rest it on top to prevent dirt from getting inside the overflow bottle). Once the engine is cool/cold, top off the overflow bottle and then install the cap. May need to top up the overflow bottle one more time, but normally if you fill it to high in the band, you will be good. The big thing is letting the bottle not form a seal initially. People have found that this will crack the overflow bottle plus it may leave the coolant system at a slight vacuum and this will actually make it easier for the system to overheat as the water will boil more easily. The system is designed to run at a slight pressure.
#44
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RSmithJr89, one other thing. I know it might sound trivial, but watch what water you put into the coolant system. This is assuming that you are buying the concentrate and then mixing 50/50 with water. If you go to the grocery store, you will find 3 kinds of water: filtered, spring, and distilled. Spring water is pretty much the same stuff that you get out of the tap of your house (except it supposedly came from a mountain spring). then you have filtered water. All this means is they took tap water and ran it through some filters to remove the "bad stuff". Granted, no where will they say how much that they left behind (which there is stuff left behind). Then you finally have distilled water. This should have no impurities in the water at all and is what you want mix with the concentrated coolant as there will be no metal ions or other corrosive ions in it, leading to a longer coolant system life.
On a side note, if you are buying water for drinking, NEVER!!!!! buy distilled water to drink. Because it has no impurities in it, when you drink it, it will pull stuff out of your body at a much higher rate than normal water and if you drink too much, it can lead to medical issues. Granted, it can also cause bowel problems with even a little bit of drinking in some cases. Water is a big think in my life as putting the wrong type of water into a nuclear reactor plant can cause big problems.
On a side note, if you are buying water for drinking, NEVER!!!!! buy distilled water to drink. Because it has no impurities in it, when you drink it, it will pull stuff out of your body at a much higher rate than normal water and if you drink too much, it can lead to medical issues. Granted, it can also cause bowel problems with even a little bit of drinking in some cases. Water is a big think in my life as putting the wrong type of water into a nuclear reactor plant can cause big problems.
#45
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I'm just not that talented but am determined to continue replacing the water pump. I have the battery out on my 2004 2.5 X-Type and there is a hose on the bottom of the battery pan that didn't connect to anything, where is that supposed to go?
Second, I can't find the radiator drain valve, any help there?
(Found it. Passenger side of rad at hose end with a slotted plus sign for bladed driver removal. It was not necessary for me to remove the plastic guard under the rad as there was an access hole shaped like a rectangle.... Oh well...)
Third, is there a preferred gasket sealant to use when I put the water pump on?
(I ended up using a Permatex Water Pump and Thermostat Housing RTV Silicone gasket compound I purchased before Thermo replied.
I did use it as he described and coated both sides of the paper gasket instead of using it without the gasket at all.)
Thanks.....
Post water pump replacement summary: The original water pump had a plastic impeller, Advance Auto had the plastic one for 200.00 or so dollars special order. I purchased the cast iron impeller model GMB #125-1910 for a more modest 53.99 which was in stock. I was concerned when I noticed the OEM part I removed had impellers I guesstimate at 25% greater height (therefore efficiency?) and a thin METAL gasket. The bearings and seal appeared perfectly fine and I couldn't explain the leak, so I worried my diagnosis was wrong. Was it that steel BB sized bearing on the edge? I don't know -but the leak is fixed by the new pump. One more note, on my model the belt was EASY EASY EASY to remove because the pulley with a single bolt was under spring tension that shifted when I put the wrench on it and gave the necessary slack.
Second, I can't find the radiator drain valve, any help there?
(Found it. Passenger side of rad at hose end with a slotted plus sign for bladed driver removal. It was not necessary for me to remove the plastic guard under the rad as there was an access hole shaped like a rectangle.... Oh well...)
Third, is there a preferred gasket sealant to use when I put the water pump on?
(I ended up using a Permatex Water Pump and Thermostat Housing RTV Silicone gasket compound I purchased before Thermo replied.
I did use it as he described and coated both sides of the paper gasket instead of using it without the gasket at all.)
Thanks.....
Post water pump replacement summary: The original water pump had a plastic impeller, Advance Auto had the plastic one for 200.00 or so dollars special order. I purchased the cast iron impeller model GMB #125-1910 for a more modest 53.99 which was in stock. I was concerned when I noticed the OEM part I removed had impellers I guesstimate at 25% greater height (therefore efficiency?) and a thin METAL gasket. The bearings and seal appeared perfectly fine and I couldn't explain the leak, so I worried my diagnosis was wrong. Was it that steel BB sized bearing on the edge? I don't know -but the leak is fixed by the new pump. One more note, on my model the belt was EASY EASY EASY to remove because the pulley with a single bolt was under spring tension that shifted when I put the wrench on it and gave the necessary slack.
![](https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1124/img_20180718_133752_10716408e37d65224c7b5e8cce9c6b5aef279a35.jpg)
New Metrix and original FoMoCo pumps with virtually identical impellers and construction.
Last edited by rocket11; 07-18-2018 at 12:50 PM.
#46
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If it's a very long and thin rubber hose, it is likely the battery drain hose for when a battery is overcharged and needs a relief drainage. The battery has an outlet at the top on one side Wich you attach it to, if you have a Jaguar recommend battery instalked from Interstate Batteries. Most new batteries are factory sealed and require no maintenance, so that tube is technically obsolete now. But the factory recommended Interstate Battery will still have the drain valve to connecr it to. Battery acid is very caustic and will rot your car's metal parts very quickly unless you drain it to the ground through that rubber hose.
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