Installing Sub and AMP
#1
Installing Sub and AMP
I posted this in the audio section, but i thought the X-type section possibly could have more info on just the x-type set up.
Well i am really interested in adding a Sub and an Amp to my 2003 X-type. I have never messed with car speakers before, and i want to make this a great experience. It is either I do it myself, or do not do it at all. But i have some idea of how I am going to do this.
I will need to buy and Amp and a Sub from best buy or wherever. Run a power cable to the battery from the trunk, how exactly will I go about this? And run a speaker cable from the sub or amp to the jaguar head unit? Do i need any adapters? I also read somewhere that I could combine the wires with the wires from the read speakers and use them for the audio signal. I need some infromation on this topic guys. Also lets just say, I am trying to do this in the least amount of money possible Will i need to buy any adapters from the internet? Does anyone have a tutorial i can follow?
Thanks!
Well i am really interested in adding a Sub and an Amp to my 2003 X-type. I have never messed with car speakers before, and i want to make this a great experience. It is either I do it myself, or do not do it at all. But i have some idea of how I am going to do this.
I will need to buy and Amp and a Sub from best buy or wherever. Run a power cable to the battery from the trunk, how exactly will I go about this? And run a speaker cable from the sub or amp to the jaguar head unit? Do i need any adapters? I also read somewhere that I could combine the wires with the wires from the read speakers and use them for the audio signal. I need some infromation on this topic guys. Also lets just say, I am trying to do this in the least amount of money possible Will i need to buy any adapters from the internet? Does anyone have a tutorial i can follow?
Thanks!
#2
#3
RE: Installing Sub and AMP
Just some ideas depending on what setup you choose.
If your gonna run your amp wires to the trunk from your head unit, it would be wise to get a RCA line adapter and tap off your rear speakers...you can find them on ebay for $5
Also if you get an lone amp not a comb unit, I would get an amp kit from ebay as well, got mine for real cheap, they run very expensive at Best Buy...
Just some ideas...
If your gonna run your amp wires to the trunk from your head unit, it would be wise to get a RCA line adapter and tap off your rear speakers...you can find them on ebay for $5
Also if you get an lone amp not a comb unit, I would get an amp kit from ebay as well, got mine for real cheap, they run very expensive at Best Buy...
Just some ideas...
#4
RE: Installing Sub and AMP
Thanks for the replies guys. I want to go through this process as easy as possible. How exactly would i go about getting the audio signal to the sub? I dont have to run a cable to the battery if I tap the power to lets say, the rear lights? Also, If i have to run a cable to the battery, how and from where would i run it?
#5
RE: Installing Sub and AMP
You have to run a wire from the battey, I would not reccommend any other way. There is a plundger in the firewall that you can pry off and make the opening slightly bigger to fit a 4 guage power cable. Then put the plundger back on. It is easy enough to get the cable to the trunk without taking off any body pieces, but I would do it. The x has nice cable runs in there that make everything neat. If you are just going to do a sub and amp, here is what I did.
I found the wiring diagram for my my stereo system, actually the dude from bestbuy printed it out for me as a guide when I bought the low-level adapter. (almost $30) - Either way I unplugged the sub, found the rear speaker wires at the sub harness. Wired the lowlevel adapter right there and went rca's to the amp. The bolts that hold the sub up make a good ground. I would also use 4 guage wire for that too! The remote wire needs to come from something thatturns on/off when the car is turned on/off. I ran that wire from the radio.
My stock system was lame, not sure about yours but I was able to have a conversation over the volume set at 35. Sounded great but I like to feel my music. My sub is 250 watts, kicker solobaric L5 and a mtx 4250D - Took a lot of tweaking and it didn't sound right - as I would hear the door speakers over the sub. I eventually upgraded the door speakers with polk momo's (matt h20boy reccommended them) 6.5 components. I have been loving life ever since. I am running them off a JL Audio 300/4 - kicks butt...
Something I have been wanting to try is upgrading the woofers in the stock sub, and sending them some real power - might sound awesome...
I found the wiring diagram for my my stereo system, actually the dude from bestbuy printed it out for me as a guide when I bought the low-level adapter. (almost $30) - Either way I unplugged the sub, found the rear speaker wires at the sub harness. Wired the lowlevel adapter right there and went rca's to the amp. The bolts that hold the sub up make a good ground. I would also use 4 guage wire for that too! The remote wire needs to come from something thatturns on/off when the car is turned on/off. I ran that wire from the radio.
My stock system was lame, not sure about yours but I was able to have a conversation over the volume set at 35. Sounded great but I like to feel my music. My sub is 250 watts, kicker solobaric L5 and a mtx 4250D - Took a lot of tweaking and it didn't sound right - as I would hear the door speakers over the sub. I eventually upgraded the door speakers with polk momo's (matt h20boy reccommended them) 6.5 components. I have been loving life ever since. I am running them off a JL Audio 300/4 - kicks butt...
Something I have been wanting to try is upgrading the woofers in the stock sub, and sending them some real power - might sound awesome...
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Installing Sub and AMP
There is an unused power wire run to the trunk already. Do a seach I have posted about it a couple of times. It behind the left rear trunk liner, down low. it is a 3 wire connector called aux power on the wiring diagram. It is used if you have a factory towing package.
There is a fused, 30 amp feed there.. big enough for most subs.
THere is also a good ground in the plug and a 20 amp accessory switched wire. To get power to the ACC wire, you need to plug in a relay into an empty spot in the fuse box under the motor hood.
I would avoid runing wires .. everything you need is in the trunk already.
There is a fused, 30 amp feed there.. big enough for most subs.
THere is also a good ground in the plug and a 20 amp accessory switched wire. To get power to the ACC wire, you need to plug in a relay into an empty spot in the fuse box under the motor hood.
I would avoid runing wires .. everything you need is in the trunk already.
#7
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#8
RE: Installing Sub and AMP
I found a white femal plug type that is not occupied. How exactly will i take advantage of this? Do i need to strip the wires? or do i get some sort of connector? Or did i find the wrong plug. I can take a photo of it tommorow. Also how will I get an audio signal to the amp or sub?
#10
#11
RE: Installing Sub and AMP
running an amp with separate speakers you should run a thick cable right to the battery with a fuse link in it. the small wire in the car will not hold up to the power the amp will draw. you could wind up burnin up the wire and possibly the car. aftermarket amps are power hungry. for the ground run it as short as possible to a good ground point. the shorter ground will reduce some of the noise.
#13
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Posts: n/a
RE: Installing Sub and AMP
ORIGINAL: loaks111
running an amp with separate speakers you should run a thick cable right to the battery with a fuse link in it. the small wire in the car will not hold up to the power the amp will draw. you could wind up burnin up the wire and possibly the car. aftermarket amps are power hungry. for the ground run it as short as possible to a good ground point. the shorter ground will reduce some of the noise.
running an amp with separate speakers you should run a thick cable right to the battery with a fuse link in it. the small wire in the car will not hold up to the power the amp will draw. you could wind up burnin up the wire and possibly the car. aftermarket amps are power hungry. for the ground run it as short as possible to a good ground point. the shorter ground will reduce some of the noise.
It is for sure not needed, and as long as you have proper fuses there will NOT be a fire, wires will not burn up. The factory wire will be properly done, with connections that are designed for the amperage. Many many many.. ( I installed professionally for 7 years) systems fail from poor connections. If there is going to be a fire it is likely from a bad connection. USE the factory wire if you can!
The factory wire to the trunk is fused and rated for 30A. Check your amp and most will be OK with this. Fuseable links are slower blowing than regular fuses, so I would caution away from this..
#14
RE: Installing Sub and AMP
Bojanges has a point but you dont want to go too thin. One time on the way home from a long trip I blew a fuse from my main line. I still had over 1 hour ride and it was late, so I took some speaker wire and jumped it - no **** - it worked for about 30 minutes and high volume - eventually the wires were cooked!So if you ask me, run the correct wires, but what bo says makes perfect sence too! If there is already a heavy enough feed there from the battery - why not? But if it didn't come directly off the battery, I would run an independent line.
#15
RE: Installing Sub and AMP
Is that the connector you are talking about? I see ground bolts next to it.
This on which side it was found.
How would i get the male plug to go in that? Or do i strip the wires?
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=30c0doj&s=4
http://i36.tinypic.com/2h53edz.jpg
This on which side it was found.
How would i get the male plug to go in that? Or do i strip the wires?
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=30c0doj&s=4
http://i36.tinypic.com/2h53edz.jpg
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Installing Sub and AMP
As I recall that is not the one.
The aux connector has 3 wires going to it. and it is clipped to the metal framework sorta where you are looking. There are a lot of unused wires there, most for CD, phone, etc.. The aux power plus is more rearward.. just ahead of the taillight stuff. Has thicker wires than all the other wires there (well cept the phone antena co-ax wire)
you need a test light or meter to confirm what the wires are. in the 3 wire plug, there should be a ground, a +12V, and a dead wire.. the dead wire becomes an accessory power (key on) only after you plug an additional relay into the right spot in the fuse box under the hood.
If my car was nearby.. id take a pic.. might be a week or so before I get to it again.
The aux connector has 3 wires going to it. and it is clipped to the metal framework sorta where you are looking. There are a lot of unused wires there, most for CD, phone, etc.. The aux power plus is more rearward.. just ahead of the taillight stuff. Has thicker wires than all the other wires there (well cept the phone antena co-ax wire)
you need a test light or meter to confirm what the wires are. in the 3 wire plug, there should be a ground, a +12V, and a dead wire.. the dead wire becomes an accessory power (key on) only after you plug an additional relay into the right spot in the fuse box under the hood.
If my car was nearby.. id take a pic.. might be a week or so before I get to it again.
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