Replaced the front struts yesterday. Followed the steps outlined here. Strut removal guide. Went very easy. Got everything together and took the Blue Submarine for a test drive. All seemed fine. Car drove, handled well and as I recall, not dash lights. Cleaned up and got in car to take wife to dinner and as soon as I pulled out of drive, the ABS and Brake lights were on. Pulled back in garage to top off brake fluid and check the ABS connectors. The Brake light went out but still have the ABS light. In addition, the brake peddle seems soft and nearly goes to the floor.

My AZ code reader initially showed a code of C0154 ( or was it C0145????) I cleared it and it has not returned.

Put the dash display in diagnostic mode and got about 60 values. Some are probably just reporting readings.

My question is, where does one go to find out what these mean and which ones are actually error codes?

Did have the calipers off and did compress the piston. Battery was disconnected since I also replaced the Alt at the same time. When first started up, pumped the brake peddle several times and it seemed firm. Since the RF rotor was wedged on hub, had to hit the edge on the hub to get it off.

Thinking that when I compressed the caliper piston to get the brakes off, somehow air got in the line and I just need to bleed the lines.

Again, where does one go to decipher these codes?

 

Buckman, let me get home and get my resource. Worst case, e-mail me your addy and I will send you a file that I have that will tell you what every step in the diagnostic mode means and how to decipher it all.

 

Thermo, you seem to have all the answers. I'll see if I can PM you y email.

 

Thermo, found your thread from a while back and the link to the TSB that explained the values. The DTC that were displayed are as follows: E511-Key/D900-Climate (no issues) and 9318-Bat Voltage (car was not running so I'm not concerned with this one).

Going down the list, there was also an IVD-01. This has me scratching my head, not sure how to read this one. The TSB says:
0 = No faults. Bit 0 =
ABS/TCS fault. Bit 1 =
Brake intervention fault.
Bit 3 = Engine intervention
fault. Bit 4 = EBD fault. Bit
5 = YAW/IVD fault.
NC=Not configured/Option
not present. --=CAN
message not received or
invalid.

Is this saying that there is an issue with the brakes? With the ABS light on the dash and the peddle travel too far, that is kind of stating the obvious.

A few more positions down was the BF-Brake Fluid-0. This should have been corrected with me bleeding the front brakes and topping off the fluid. I will recheck.

Any suggestions on where to look from here?

 

Just a quick note that the S-Type appears almost identical. The codes are kept forever and usually do not relate to current faults. Example: my car got an engine code (P0116). Not logged in the cluster. Cluster still has the same DTCs it had when I got the car over 5 years ago. I decided long ago simply to ignore them as the car has worked fine!

 

Buckman, are you sure that the code wasn't C1145? That would make sense based on what you are seeing. This is what a lot of people see as a problem when it comes to the brakes. That is telling me that your wheel speed sensor is not sending its signal to the ABS computer. Could be a bad sensor, could be a wiring issue.

If you need more info, let me know and we can go from there.

 

I'm going with a bad sensor on the hub or the wire lead from there to the fender. The rotor was hard to get off due to a layer of crust on the end of the hub where the rotor goes around it. I was using a pry bar behind the disc as I was striking the rotor between the bolt holes in an attempt to get it off. I think I might have accidentally hit the sensor with the pry bar and damaged it. If that doesn't work, I'm replacing the wire lead. I might have pulled too hard on it getting it off or otherwise damaged it getting the strut out.

 

Thermo, replaced the wheel sensor, attached cable and took car for test drive. Initially, only the ABS light was on. Was thinking that in order to clear, this was one of those things that needed to go over a certain speed so many times. As soon as the auto door locks engaged, the Brake light came on. Drove over 30 MPH then stopped and turned off car. Counted to 10 and restarted. Only the ABS light was on. Put car in drive and took off. Again, as soon as auto door locks engaged, brake light comes on. Drove over 30 MPH, stopped, turned off, counted to 10, restarted and only the ABS was on. Put in drive and the whole thing repeated. Kind of like Ground Hog Day movie. Got back to house and pulled codes. Nothing but the p1000. Nothing else. Thinking the harness might be bad now. I have a multi meter but have no idea how to use it. Used harnesses on eBay are going for about $35. Called a dealer and they wanted $195 for a new one. YIKES! Guess I need to learn how to use the multi meter before I spend more $$$$ replacing good parts.

Any ideas?

As always, thanks for your help.

 

Buckman, the brake light is dealing with the e-brake, not the normal braking system. The Brake light is nothing more than a switch attached to the e-brake handle between the front seats. So, I am not sure why that is coming on like it is unless you have an issue with the instrument cluster and that is causing the various lights to come on.

If the ABS light is on, then you should be getting one of the C codes (C1145, C1155, C1165, and/or C1175). That would be telling me that there is a problem with the ABS system and one of the wheel speed sensors is not playing nice. Going to the local auto parts store will most likely not tell you about the C codes as most of their readers only look for P codes. You would need a higher end reader or some of the ones that you can get for garage mechanics will have that ability.

As for testing the sensor with a multimeter, it is fairly easy. What you will need to do is to get a second person to help you (or get a set of alligator leads-ie the leads have spring loaded jaws that look like miniature alligator jaws) and then connect/touch one lead to one pin of the sensor and connect/touch the other lead to the other pin. Set the multimeter to the VDC scale (if it gives you the ability to select a scale, select the 2V scale). Now, with the leads on the sensor, pass a large metal object (a large screw driver or similar magnetic piece of metal) near the sensor (closer is better, but don't strike the sensor). A good sensor will cause the multimeter to show a rapidly rising voltage and then just as quickly have it fall off. This is where an analog meter or a digital meter with an analog bar on it will be better since you will see it jump easier.

To prove the wiring good, you will need to disconnect the plug at the ABS module and then short the two pins together that go to the wheel speed sensor. From there, you will touch the probes of the multimeter to the two corresponding pins on the plug (write me if you plan on doing this as I can tell you specifically what pins to touch). The multimeter will be set to read ohms (the funny looking upside down U that has feet, some multimeters may say something to the effect of 2K, 2M, 200K, etc). What you are looking for is the meter to go from a very high value (normally will say "OL") to a very low value (less than 5.0 ohms is good, pay attention to the screen as 5K ohms, 5M ohms and 5 ohms all look similar except on the screen you will see on the right side the letters K or M if you are seeing the higher resistance, no letter means a low resistance).

 

Oh yeah, you can try unplugging the e-brake switch in the center console. If the light is coming on after disconnecting the switch, then this almost confirms that your problem is inside the instrument cluster. The only other option at that point is you have some damaged wiring inside the dash and you have 2 wires that are shorted together. But, unless you have been under the dash doing a lot of wiring modifications, the odds of this happening is pretty low.

 

Thermo, Wish I actually wrote it down instead of trusting my memory. Will work on the resistance test next. Think I have the procedure down from you detailed description.

Have not had the dash apart for any kind of work under there so unless a varmint got up under there and had lunch, it did it on its own.

 

Thermo, did the e-brake switch since it was easy to do on this Sunday morning. Same results. Light was off but came on right as the door locks engaged. Therefore, it sounds like I have an issue with the instrument cluster.

What is the solution for that?

And, I have not completed the resistance test but I'm thinking that if there is an issue in the instrument cluster with the e-brake light, it might also be why the ABS light is on. Does that sound reasonable? Will most likely be able to do the resistance test tomorrow and report the results then.

 

Buckman, unfortunately, if you have a bad instrument cluster, you are most likely looking at having to replace the instrument cluster. Best case, you can pull the instrument cluster, give it to a shop to repair the cluster and then re-install your old cluster. If you go with the repair option, while it is the cheaper method normally, you are also without the car while the repair is accomplished which may take a week or so to accomplish.

If you replace the instrument cluster, keep in mind that it is a gamble as to whether the car will start after the replacement. I have not found the common thing to why some cars start. I believe it is because the cars got an instrument cluster with a manufacture date close to what the original was and therefore the car sees it as a good cluster. Otherwise, you are looking at a trip to the dealership to have them reprogram the instrument cluster to accept the key information and allow starting of the car.

 

Thermo, checking with a friend at a repair shop to see if they can at least pull ALL of the codes for me. Hopefully that will give me an idea of what is happening.

For now, I have completed bleeding the lines thinking that when the calipers were removed some air got in the line. Did not clear the ABS light.

Having the cluster rebuilt should be okay. The Mrs has borrowed a car from one of the kids but a Kia is not like the Jag. How hard is it to remove the cluster?

Attempted the resistance test. Removed the lead from the hub and fender. Stuck a paper clip in the hub end to jump the circuit. Followed the instructions for the meter to calibrate the unit for a test and then stuck the probes into the fender end. The meter immediately acted like the circuit was closed. Didn't have any luck getting the needle to move when a screw driver was passed near the hub end. I'm thinking that since the needle at least moved, there is a good complete circuit and both leads in the front are good. Or should I try this again?

When replacing the alternator, I had disconnected the ABS connection on the module and moved it aside to allow more room for the the bar in to release the tension on the belt. The car has 146k on the odo. Should I be looking at the plug or module as being suspect since it was disturbed for repairs? Are there resistance tests that can be done to see if there is an issue here? I do see a tiny green spot in the male end of the connector on the module. It is right next to one of the pins. Green colored. See attached pic. Top left corner.

 

Buckman, I would try taking a small scribe or screw driver and try removing that green stuff (copper oxide). It may be possible that the oxidation is shorting out the signal and that is resulting in your ABS code.

If your resistance measurement showed a short (very low resistance), then I would call it good.

As for the speed sensor, there are a lot of variables with it and if you are too far away, it will result in now signal being sent. Hence why I say to get as close as you dare, but just make sure not to strike the end of the sensor. You normally need to be within say a 1/4" or so for it to read.

Removing the cluster from what I have read is not a difficult job, but it will take a good part of an afternoon as I recall since you have a lot of interference before it will come out. HOpefully one of the other members will be able to help you out with a more detailed explanation of what is needed to be done.

 

Thermo, a friend at a local repair shop has a DTC reader that pulled a 'C1095-Hydraulic pump motor circuit failure'. For grins, he cleared it but as soon as the car started, it came back on.

Like I said before, I did move the abs plug out of the way and the other end was right there next to the bar as I released the tension on the belt.

Finding little on this forum about the subject. Any diagnostics that can be done for further trouble shooting? Have not checked fuses but seems like there would be something else wrong as well.

Thanks!

 

Called a local shop that specializes in Jaguars. They do not rebuild the modules but suggested going to the bone-yard and getting the newest one that could be had and he would install/program it for $145. Checked into a bone-yard replacement. they are telling me $4-500. Apparently a new one from the dealer is around $3k.

Anyone had any luck sending the old one off to be rebuilt? Any recommendations to use or avoid?

Thanks!

 

Buckman, look on e-bay. They have tons of the modules that you are looking for for around $100 (that includes S&H). I would give one of those a shot before spending the local yard price.

 

Was also told by a high end foreign car repair shop that the hand brake light coming on could possibly be due to an electric motor on top of the rear axle that runs the emergency brakes on the rear wheels. Have not crawled around under there yet but are you familiar with this?

 

Buckman, on our X-types, there is no electric motor. You start talking about the XF/XK/XJ's, then you have that motor on the more recent cars. Our cars have a simple cable that runs from the pull handle, gets split, then runs to the e-brake levers on each of the rear calipers.