My Jag is a 2001 model X-type 2.5 and a manual transmission. The issue is that when u rev it up. It only going up to 3000rpm and it starts stutturing. How can I solve this issue.

 

Do you have the CEL (Check Engine Light) on in your instrument cluster? If you have a message center, is it giving you any error messages?

Might want to check the vacuum intake hose for leaks, the original non-ribbed version tends to develop a split on the underside, and that results in restricted performance and the revs are restricted to around 3000.

 

Yes I have the CEL on. So what I have to do is to change vacuum intake hose?

 

Best to read the OBD codes. Even a $10 elm327 should do that. You're liable to swap parts costing a lot more than that if you go guessing.

 

BLueneck, what I recommend (as others are) is getting the codes read for the car. This will help us narrow down what the problem is. You might be able to talk with a local auto parts store and they will read them for you (common thing here in the US, other countries not so much). You can go the ELM 327 route, but then you need an Android based cell phone and download a free app. The third option is to get a handheld code reader. These can be had now for as cheap as about $50 USD.

If you look under the dash, between where the steering wheel and the dash is, you should see a black plug there. That is where you would need to plug in the code reader. From there, follow the instructions for the applicable code reader to obtain the codes. Once we have those, we can tell you almost to the part what is wrong with your vehicle.

 

As others suggested, reading the codes is a good idea. Do however also check whether you have the old or the new hose, and if it's old see if it's split, as it's an easy check and may result in a possible cheap fix.

If you have the old one and even if it's not split (yet), it's not a bad idea to get the new one pre-emptively as they aren't exactly expensive. Part number is C2S40863.

 

I have changed the hose and its still stuttering at rev 3000. What else should I do and the CEL kinda blinks at am moving.
The other issue am having now is that the noise n vibration i get from moving is way too high and checking the under of my jag I found out my propshaft hanger is torn to shreds. Tried looking for the part and can't find the part no for that.

Jagaur 2001
X-Type.

 

I just had the exact same symptoms and it turned out to be a bad coil pack on one of the cylinders

 

BLueneck, before driving the car any more, you need to get the prop shaft bearing replaced. Odds are, you are going to end up needing a complete rear drive shaft. Not sure how much that may run you where you are. To drive the car more is only going to cause more damage to the bearings in the transfer case and the rear differential. You trash all 3 of those and it is going to be cheaper to buy a new car than to repair those.

The flashing CEL light is telling you that whatever error the computer is seeing, it is bad enough that it is causing damage to some part of the engine. But, without knowing the code, it is hard to say what it is. With that being said, here is something that you can try:

-starting with the car off, press and hold down the TRIP button on the end of the turn signal stalk
-while holding the TRIP button down, turn the ignition switch to the RUN position (maintain holding the TRIP button)
-Once the instrument cluster states "TEST" or "Engineering Test Mode", release the TRIP button
-slowly press the TRIP button over and over (will take about 15 presses and you will see the instrument cluster doing all sorts of things, this is all normal) till you see the message center state something to the effect of "DTC XXXX" (where XXXX is either 4 numbers or 1 letter followed by 3 numbers).
-write down what you see and then press the TRIP button again
-if you get another DTC XXXX, write that down and press the TRIP button again. Keep repeating until you see "E XXXX" where XXXX is a 4 digit number.
-post the results that you get here and we can convert the numbers over to the DTC codes and give you a much better idea of what is going on with your car.

Once you have all the DTC codes, you can either turn the car back off or you can press and hold the TRIP button for more than 3 seconds and this will return the instrument cluster back to normal. You can also start the car and this will also take it out of the test mode.

 

Here are the DTC codes I wrote down as u instructed.

DTC 9318
DTC D900
DTC 9202
DTC 9359
DTC 5922
DTC E510
DTC 5923

These are the codes I got from my jaguar. So I hope I will get the results of whats wrong with my jag.

 

Still waiting for the explaination of these codes.

 

Blueneck, sorry, been a little busy with work. We had a major storm come through my area and I am now working 7 days a week, 12 hour shifts. I haven't had a lot of free time. I will try to look at these tonight and post something back.

 

9318 is B1318 - Battery Voltage too low
D900 is U1900 - CAN Bus failure
9292 is B1292 - Battery relay failure
9359 is B1359 - ignition switch failure (ACC Fail)
5922 is ?????? This is not supported by the documentation that I have available.
E510 is U2510 - Can bus issue with PATS system (ie, security system).

Based on the codes that I am seeing, it is looking like you have a weak battery in the car and that is causing a lower then expected voltage as you are starting the car. This is causing the computers to see random problems and it is logging them. I would say to have your battery "load tested" and even if it is marginal (ie, not at 90% or more), replace the battery and then see what you get from there.

Granted, based on the limited RPMs, I would also say to get some throttlebody cleaner and some MAF sensor cleaner and clean the throttle body and MAF sensor. These are easy to do. If you need me to go into more detail on them, let me know. There are posts here that you can look at too that will go into sufficient detail to get you taken care of.
5923 is ?????? This is not supported by the documentation that I have available.

 

C1922.
You don't know which module or how long ago for any of the codes. Any time in 13 years.

 

OK will do that.
Will change it the battery when am out of work.
Would love a detail explaination on how to clean the MAF & Throttle cleaners.
Would love to get it. Cos many of mechanic down here will kill the car than help u repair it. Would do that myself if am directed rightly on how to do it.

 

@ JagV8 thanks for the advice. U will c the pic and the year n the kilometers on their now.

 

If 2001 car, any time in 13 years as I posted.

 

Blueneck, to clean the MAF sensor, first get yourself a can of MAF sensor cleaner (should be available at any auto parts store). You will need a phillips screw driver to undo the 2 screws holding the MAF Sensor (located near the battery box in the large black tube running between your air filter and throttle body). Remove the MAF Sensor and ten undo the plug to the sensor. From there, use the cleaner to spray down the hole in the center of the sensor. Just don't spray straight down the hole. Make it bounce off the side of the hole. Squirt and dump out the cleaner a few times and then reinstall (reverse the above process).

As for the throttle body, you will need a can of throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). From there, you will remove the intake tube from the throttle body (requires the use of a pair of pliers and a small flatblade screw driver, you squeeze the two tabs together then you slide the screwdriver under the one tab and give the screw driver a twist and then release the pliers). From there, you will need to use both of your hands such that you are using a finger to push the disk inside the throttle body open as the other hand is squirting the throttle body cleaner. If you see brown, use the cleaner to spray it away. Make sure to get the silver disk and the edge of the silver disk. You can even spray some of the cleaner on a rag and use that to wipe the inside. Once all the brown tarnish is gone, re-install the intake tube. NOTE: this will flood the car and cause it not to start, to over come this, depress the gas pedal all the way (floor the car) as you are starting it. Once the RPMs start to come up, play with the gas pedal to keep the engine running. It will take about 5 seconds, but the engine will smooth out.

 

Thermo I just finish doing the cleaning of the parts the MAF sensor & the Throttle body. I started it back n it steamed fine but it still didnt rev past that 3000rpm. Am stuck here now. What could be my next option on this?

 

Blueneck, the first check that I would do is to look at the wiring going to the throttle body. Make sure that it all looks good. The plug is in good condition, the wiring is not exposed (ie, showing copper), and in general appears to do its job. After that, it is looking like you are going to need a shop. You are quickly approaching having to replace either the ECU (the computer that controls the engine) or the throttle body. Both of which are fairly expensive and I would hate to see you just picking a part and seeing if it will fix the problem.