Hey guys I am new to the forums and a nooby to modifying cars even though I understand my share of knlowedge I did a little research on x type exhausts and it seems that only specific exhausts such as borla mina etc fit and I have checked their prices. Is there any alternatives? I cannot spend too much money and am looking for a really low deep growling noise instead of a honda civic noise and would like a dual quad exhaust. I can cut the rear bumper myself. Thanks!

 

Jaglover7, as you have experienced (and mentioned in your other post), the options for the X-Type are very limited. The Mina exhaust is nice (I have installed the system on a members car). The sound is along the lines of what you are looking for. Maybe not quite as deep as you will want, but deeper than stock and others will know you have something a little different.

What you are really looking at is going with a complete custom exhaust more than likely. For what you are after, that is about the only way that you are going to get it. Just a few warnings though:

1) do not get greedy and try to go with very minimal back pressure to maximize power. Doing so not only kills the low end grunt that the 3.0L motors have, but will also trip the engine computer and now you are going to be in a world of hurt trying to resolve that issue.

2) you will probably find that if you go with too "wild" of exhaust tips or loudness, etc, that you will get a fair amount of feedback from what are referred to as "Jag Purists". The exhaust system on your car is actually pretty good and is not very restrictive at all. So, when it comes to performance, yes, you can gain a little more, but there is not much more to be gained.

3) I am reading between the lines here, so, if I am wrong, just take what I am saying here with a grain of salt (granted, still good information). It is sounding like you are looking to increase the performance of the car to help aid in acceleration and overall power of the car. This is not recommended. Why do I say this? I can summarize it in a few words: Transfer case failure. The transfer case in these cars is adequate for "normal" driving (ie, accelerations where the RPMs are not allowed to go above say 3,500 RPM). You start doing lots of hard accelerations, the transfer case flexes and this is going to lead to internal failures. A new transfer case will set you back about $3000. people that are aggressive with the pedal have been known to go through transfer cases every 30K miles. You start pushing the power up in the car, that time can be much less. I am not questioning how you drive, just explaining that with the X-Type, how you drive can make it a very cheap car to own or a very expensive one to own.

 

thermo you summed it up nicely,
even though most of us would like to do perfomance mods
the power results are not that significant
verses a new transfer case,but there is one good thing about these cars is the top end is
top notch if your going down hill
most members do more cosmetic things to there x including me,i have a car for speed my rx7 turbo were i ported the rotary engine and added a bigger turbo and fuel computer





sorry about the pics

 

Slight mods on my cat...Borla exhaust, K&N intake air filter....mesh grill. Everyone does what he likes..It ain't a speed rocket, but a great car for what it was designed to be...Here in snow country 8 months of the year...it is great.....

 

Hello Thermo,
Thanks for your very informative and sensible input.... think you have second guessed the originators quandry -very well.

On a related point of interest......

Do you happen to know what the performance stats are - for the X-Type AWD ?

eg;
• Standing Start times: 0-60 mph..? (for 2.5L & 3.0L Petrol)
• Max Speed: xxx mph ? (for Auto & Manual Trans)

Of course the above Standing Start should be based on care and consideration for the AWD transfer box... but nonetheless, there must be numbers out there - anticipated/expected by the designers.

Finally, if one wanted give an X-Type 'some wellie' (say at the lights) whats your take on the best way to do that;

• Make the 'S' button active... Y/N?
• Is D2 the best gear for this .... Y/N ?

Just thinking allowed now.

 

0-60 times:
3.0L motor (2001, manual tranny): 7.5 seconds
2.5L motor (2002) 7.9 seconds with the manual tranny, 8.5 seconds with the auto tranny (per Jaguar specifications)
Car and Driver claims the 2002 X-type has a 0-60 MPH range of 6.6 to 8.5 seconds (6.6 seconds most likely for the 3.0L manually tranny to the 8.5 seconds for the 2.5L auto tranny).

Max Speed: 137-146 mph (computer limited, varies based on year) Type of tranny does not matter, based on wheel speed sensors.

As for how to get the car to get moving the fastest, I would leave the car in D and let the computer do the shifting for you. Odds are, you are going to hold a gear to long and hit the rev limiter which is only going to slow down the overall rate of acceleration. As for using the Sport (S) button, I would say to engage it as all the button really does is force the motor to hold the current gear to a slightly higher RPM before shifting. Since both the 3.0L motor and 2.5L motor (more specifically the 2.5L motor) generate most of their power up in the RPMs, getting the tranny to shift at a higher RPM is going to result in a better 0-60 time. Please keep in mind that by pushing the car, you are stressing the transfer case. I will leave it at that.

Personally, if I was to build up a "light to light" X-Type, I would go after one of the diesel X-Types and then tweak the diesel at that point. There are things you can do to that car that you can not even consider with a gas powered version without lots of cost. You could probably build up a diesel X-Type to around 300 hp with minimal cost and have something that would perform very well without having to worry about detonating something.

 

Off topic but, as I know there nothing wrong with high rev's shifting (2nd to 3rd; 3rd to 2nd or 4th and etc.), and this does not hurt the transfer case, but the clutch dropping and etc. hurts. Am I right on this?

 

Thank you Thermo..... for your wisdom.

I only mention this because it was most embarrassing just the other day.... when I got out-dragged (at the lights) by a Mitsubishi 4WD UTE who wanted to cut into my lane ahead - and he did so (easily) after only 100 yards.

I don't think there was anything special (under the Hood) just seems like an everyday Work-Utility truck

I was sitting there (ready for it) with 4th selected and with 'S' - ON.

Mind you I did back off a bit - when it was clear I wasn't gaining any ground.


May be I need a good tune-up.... (any tips welcome)

 

"4th selected"? You mean 4th gear? If so, why?

I never race between the lights, as unnecessarily hard acceleration feels unseemly. It's not a Rolls-Royce, but it has a sense of grace about it nevertheless. If I wanted to do such thing, I would've bought an MR2 Turbo as I originally planned, but instead I wanted to move around calmly and in style
Besides, any serious tune-up is likely to transfer your transfer case on the road, which I would consider more embarassing.

Regarding topic, I'm probably going for the Adamesh sports exhaust later this year or in 2013. It's cheap (about 1/3 of Jaguar OEM non-stainless exhaust!), and available in UK unlike Mina Gallery. I would love a deep rumble (more bass), as I rarely stray over 3500rpm.

 

[QUOTE=Aonsaithya;502378]"4th selected"? You mean 4th gear? If so, why?

I never race between the lights, as unnecessarily hard acceleration feels unseemly. It's not a Rolls-Royce, but it has a sense of grace about it nevertheless. If I wanted to do such thing, I would've bought an MR2 Turbo as I originally planned, but instead I wanted to move around calmly and in style
Besides, any serious tune-up is likely to transfer your transfer case on the road, which I would consider more embarassing.



YADA, YADA, YADA..... unrequited remarks !!

 

Relax, dude. He just had the gears on you for a stoplight run. Get him out on the road and you'd smoke him.

 

I agree with PreJag, it's really all about the gearing from stoplight to stoplight. I get smoked all the time by audis from lights, but racing them from 10mph (agreed upon so we don't damage our clutches) to about 125 ish, I win every time.

 

Hmmm, my motive was honest... I was just trying to stop a rat-runner from queue jumping me and the 3 cars behind..... he'd used the left-turn lane at the lights.... to gain ground and start his run from.

My whole point being; 'how did he know" his Ute would beat my Jag... across that intersection?

 

Nardo, yes a 5,000 RPM clutch drop is going to be much harder on the transfer case than a simple shift from 6,000 RPM to 4,000 RPM. The bigger thing is what gear you are doing this in. It isn't necessarily horsepower that is your enemy here, but torque. HOrsepower is what keeps an item moving at a constant speed. Torque is what causes an item to change speed. Now, add in the fact that torque can be multiplied by converting speed into torque or torque into speed. So, in the case of doing a shift from 1st to 2nd, you have the engine torque being multiplied by 3.80 in first changing to 2.13. So, with a 3.0L motor, it makes roughly 200 ft-lbs of torque at say 5,000 RPM. So, this means that at the transmission output (input to the transfer case), it is making 760 ft-lbs of torque in first gear and then shifting to 426 ft-lbs of torque. This is a big change. Especially when you compare it to say a shift from 3rd to 4th where the gear ratio is changing from 1.37 to 0.94, or 274 to 188 ft-lbs of torque.

Kinda like, when you are doing the clutch drop, you are effectively going from 0 to 760 ft-lbs of torque. As you can see, that is much harder on the engine.

So, it is all in perspective.

LCGI, as for starting out in 4th, all that is saying is that you are preventing the car from shifting to 5th gear. The tranny will still shift from 1st to 2nd to .... 4th. Only in 2nd gear will the transmission not shift to 1st, but starts out in 2nd with the intention of limiting the torque making it to the wheels, therefore helping in maintaining traction in adverse conditions.

 

Thanks Thermo...... I find leaving it in 4th (in around the suburbs) seems to improve overall responsiveness. But, I did not intensionally select that - for the Lights scenario - it was just that way it was set. I guess had I had the presence of mind - back then.... I could have selected 1st or 2nd.... to improve the Jags standing-start run...??

 

Hi Thermo,
As I have a 2.2d manual, I have been looking for ways to increase power on my car.
I would be very interested in your opinion of how to upgrade the engine to produce 300 bhp, sounds very interesting indeed !

Paul.

 

Man on the hill, to get the 2.2L up to 300 bhp is going to take some serious modification. Unfortunately, for what it will cost, you would be better off getting another vehicle. Not trying to steer you away, but to get that kind of power is going to take some more extensive mods. I don't think doing bolt on mods is going to get you to where you want. So, you are looking at having to rebuild the motor to lower the compression ratio down some so you can then turbo the engine and probably end up running say 10-15 psi of boost. So, you could probably plan on spending say $5000 to $10000 USD to get everything fabricated and upgraded to make that work.

But, for that kind of money, you could probably find a decent Subaru Impreza WRX/STI and it would have a transfer case that would better handle the power and have the power that you are after and have something tomorrow with no work.