Hi,

Just before christmas I bought myself a 2002 X-Type 2.0 V6SE (Autotragic) (70,000mls), on inspection and test drive the car was lovley perfectly clean inside and out, no ware, no issues on the test drive (actually I had a couple of test drives).

However last week whilst accellerating up a slight hill the car felt like it had missed a gear, or had changed into neutral for a few moments enough to cause the engine to rev up ( as if dipping the clutch in a manual), no errors were reported and it grabbed its gear and carried on as normal.

The same occured the next day at a different location, this time a moderate incline during accelleration (30mph to 60mph). The car was not in "Sport" mode, and there was a deffinate period of no drive, but accompanying of revs.

The next day on some quick, but not hard accelleration I got this problem again, but this time instead of moving my foot off the accellerator to lower the revs i kept it where it was (not planted), it seemed to flick between two gears before presenting me with "Gearbox Fault". The car performed normally (no limp), but it seemed like it wasnt using a gear (top gear / drive lock?)

When I get home, i turn the ignition off, when I turn it on, the light is gone, no error.

The next day I purposefully tried to repilcate thisfault, and was able to do this easily simply by accellerating to 70mph at normal pace (not excessive or agressive accelleration).

I have taken the car to have its ODB codes read and it presented P1111, which indicates no faults found according to the garage?

I shall be driving extra careful to avoid triggering the error for fear of causing damage to the gearbox. No undue noise, smells eminate, simply this "selection" problem and the scary message.

Please thow your suggestions at me, also, I am curious to know why if an error was generated the ODB did not reveal anything (if my mechanics interpretation of P1111 is indeed correct of course).

I welcome all comments.....

 

This happened to me as well, about four months after I bought mine. I hate to tell you this, but it's going to need a transmission.
It's very common for 02s to need the transmissions replaced. I ended up paying ~$4,000 all said and done.
There is a place in Tennessee (Coleman Taylor) that is *very* familiar with these transmissions, and have done several of them. I called all over the state, and to several nationwide places, and they were the only people who had heard of the problem (besides the dealer, who wanted $9k) and knew exactly what the fix was.
I had a local transmission shop pull the old one since it is very difficult to do without a lift. I picked it up from them, shipped it to Coleman Taylor, they rebuilt it, and sent it back to the tranny shop for reinstallation. The rebuild from CT ran about $2500, and the shop charged me a fair $1,000 for the removal and install. I really did my homework on this, and this was the cheapest option I found. CT also gave a two year warranty on the tranny, which is double what any local shop was going to give for almost twice the price.
I ran into an unforseen expense when I had to supply the transmission fluid. It is a dealer only item, and was $26 a quart (at a discounted price). I believe the car took 6 or 7.

I feel your pain, becuase I've been in your shoes. Good luck, and let us know what you decide to do. If you have any other question feel free to PM me.

 

$26.00/qt ??..Wow! that's cheap.... Can you give PM me the number to the part's Dept please..they want $55.00/qt at my dealer.

 

Hi 310jag,

Your post is informative but to simply say "it needs a transmission" doesnt help too much, I am more interested in the root cause of the problem. Luckily I have a comprehsive third party warrantee which covers me for the gearbox.

If it needs one ill have it done under warantee here in London.

Did yours give up completely, my car drives fine until I accellerate purposefully to create the problem, am I likley to suffer an imminent loss of drive?

Again, some more specifics on the mechanical/electrical cause of the problem would be really apprieciated.

Thanks for your reply.

 

Mutisync,
As your in London (UK?) there is a place called Bristol Transmissions who are experts in Jag gearboxes (think they gice courtesy cars too).
Why not ring them as they refurb boxes for a lot of Jag dealers who then add on £££s before giving it back repaired to customers.
They may have answers to your question.
They are at http://www.gearboxesbristol.co.uk/services.htm
May not work if its more serious as suggested but I wonder if a simple software (re)flash would help????
Good luck.

 

Hi Buck,

My issue right now is there is a specific "get-out" clause in the warranty which can be used if I make the claim within the first 60 days of ownership on major failures. Assuming the worst then I think I should hold off until I can validily claim the cost. My warrantee covers me for around 4,000 GBP per claim, I do hope this is suffiecent to replace the box if needed.

My dilema now is, am a due an iminent complete failure, or will it just keep doing what it does (at highrpm/speed/load), obviously I shall avoid these circumstances. I assume if it needs a reflash its current condition wont do any damage as it would appear the computer is just making a mistake and not indicative of any mechanical problem inside the box.

I actually really regret buying this car now, I have a feeling its going to cost me a fortune warrantee or not over the years.

 

Is the get out clause because the dealer you bought you're car from has to guarantee the car themselves for the 1st 30 (or is it 60?) days under the Trade Descriptions or Sale of Goods act, maybe thw warranty is effective after that?????
As I am no expert in law I would check with Citizens advise bureau as its free and they can tell you what to do and the law.

 

Actually, its not a get-out clause but im very wary of making claims and having reviewed the policy documentation there are a few elements which could be used to avoid paying, basically I will not give them any chance to avoid paying.

I purchased the warrantee seperatley (not the dealer) since I wanted to be sure it covered things like "Ware and Tear" etc.

Since the value of a replacement gearbox will exceed the premium I paid (600GBP / Year), they are not going to want to pay up on this policy which will be a financial loss.

 

As stated, my problem was the same as yours. Slipping under acceleration/load. The problem will continue to worsen until you have no forward gears. My problems started on the 2-3 upshift, and became worse from there. The cause of the problem is cracks that delevop in the heads of pistons inside the transmission which control what gear is selected. These pistons of course ride in cylinders, which will with fluid, pushing the piston in to select a gear. With cracks in the pistions, they are unable to maintain pressure holding the car in gear, which leads to the slipping.
The replacement pistons are of a different material than the originals.

Best of luck with the warranty replacement

 

Hi 310jag,

I apprieciate the time you have taken to reply.

How many forward gears do the boxes have? Seems I can count five distinct changes, perhaps the last is a input/output lock?

Since the warning light has not come on since, and I have been driving carefully I will hold it off for as long as possible before making the warrantee claim. I shall call the specialists mentioned by BuckMR2 ( Co-incidentially my previous car was an MR2-Turbo ).

 

Before I did anything else (including drive it much) I'd check the fluid level in the transmission. This is doable (per the service manual) but not easy. It requires getting the trans to a specified heat range then removing a plug on the side of the trans.

As an (admittedly sophomoric) alternative, I would buy a quart of trans fluid from the dealer at the outrageous price they charge and add it to the trans. It is not unreasonable to assume after 70K miles you are low on tranny fluid. And, given that a very expensive repair may very well be in your future anyway, the addition of the quart of fluid seems to be a pretty good way to maybe stave off the big repair bill. Who knows, it might just solve the problem.

If it does, you may want to consider changing the transmission fluid which is covered in the repair manual although they claim it never needs to be done.

If you decide to add fluid, you really should use dealer supplied fluid. Foolish to add a chemistry experiment to the equation. If you drain and refill, I might be tempted to go with a premium fluid that meets or exceeds the Jag spec rather than pay for the dealer fluid that comes with a Papal blessing.

 

Hi. I have bought a Jag 3.0 V6 Auto just after Christmas and Experience exactly the same problem.
Can you tell me where you got your warranty as I feel this is going to be an expensive repair and a car I regret buying too.

Cheers