Hi there
Yes, bought a 2003 2.5 automatic cheap, but with Gearbox Fault, Cruise not Available.

Ideas on where to look to fix it are of course welcome. But first, can I drive it the 100 km home og should I get it transported? It is hard to get going from standstill, I think it has only one gear currently. But once it's up and running, no problems I think...

Any advice is welcome.

 

HI, I read your thread and was initially confused... - when you write:
>>> Yes, bought a 2003 2.5 automatic cheap, but with Gearbox Fault, Cruise not Available.
I thought initially that the gearbox fault is that cruise (=cruise control!?!) is not available, but I think you meant that there is a severe gearbox fault and also that cruise control is not available..., right?

Well that cruise control is not available, does not matter (mine is not available when the lights are on - I never found the time to figure this out).

As for the 1 gear only, I can only say:
Once my manual Van had one gear only (3rd gear). I drove it 180km home - that was some high level driving...: I had only a few traffic lights in the end and drove in a way which ensured I did not have to stop. I drove it to the garage then: They fixed it provisionally and I then replaced it with a new transmission from the wreckers.

But an automatic transmission with just one gear sounds like there is also something seriously wrong inside and it sounds like it required a transmission rebuild or a replacement transmission (unless of course it is just a matter of the ATF level - see below in this comment here). My third X-Type has the issue that it drives just fine forward, but it has no reverse gear. I did not have time for this car yet (I bought it like that and drove it home 320km after purchase), and I know a few things I could check, before having to resolve to swapping the transmission, which would mean removing the engine with the transmission to get access to the Jatco jf506e transmission.

As for driving your X in the current condition I would advise against. But one thing I would definitely do is checking for the ATF (automatic transmission fluid) level:
Are there ATF leaks?
Or did it leak already that long that all the fluid is gone and there are not even signs of the leak anymore?
Way to check ATF level: Lift car level (e.g. on stands) and with engine running (and ATF temp at about 40° Celcius) remove ATF check plug. Note that you need to know, WHERE the ATF plug is:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...change-266693/

Check out the very last picture on in this thread from my added entry dated 13-April-2023: it is that big golden bolt. If nothing drips out (with engine running) add ATF until it does (see my complete link above for details like which ATF and where the filer plug is).

If all that sounds to complicated for your current situation I would just add some ATF and see if that fixes your gear-issue.

Note that if you do not have any ATF in your Jatco jf506e, then you do not have any gear available. Thus, one could come to the conclusion that if you have just one gear, you have just a little bit of ATF in your system...

 

Bad wheel sensors or corroded and deformed reluctor rings can cause the ECM, TCM and DSC all to have various issues due to not receiving enough individual wheel rotational feedback.
You might find you are missing the speedo displaying any actual road speed also.
Wouldn't necessarily explain no gear shifts at all, as usually the transmission will shift (albeit very reluctantly and poorly) without that feedback.

Probably wouldn't drive it back in that condition, the risk of more damage is probably too great.
Try and get it home on a transporting trailer without inflicting any more damage, then connect a suitable OBD11 code reader on it to start to reveal what codes are in its memory.

Post the revealed codes on your thread for some assistance from the members here.

 

Thanks Peter, I found the plug in that picture. The Gearbox Fault and Cruise not Available, you're right, I suspect the first is the culprit, the last is a consequence, but I don't know, those are just the two messages I see.

Thanks Mark. It does have speedometer reading, but I'll put those sensors on my check list.

I need to ramp up on tools to service this car:

1. Ordered Haynes manual, will take a few days. What ATF does it take, and what batteries for remotes, seller mentioned a problem there?
2. How "unique" are those OBD readers. I have one for my 2007 XKR that I never used, will that work?

 

Your OBD11 reader will probably be OK to use, let's see what codes it reveals.

X-Type reluctor rings have been a pretty frequent culprit of issues for owners when they get distorted or crack through.
Removing the sensor and inspecting down the sensor hole of each while rotating the hub is a fairly easy check.

 

I know about the Haynes manual, but I think you will find that youtube plus this forum here are way better than any printed manual.
Which ATF: Read "Which ATF?" in my thead, which I gave you the link for above:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...change-266693/
(not far below the start of the thread)

However, if it turns out, that that Jag is just very low on ATF atm (at the moment), I would use one of the normally "unusable" multi vehicle ATFs (which wrongly claims to be as good as any of the recommended ATF (which I listed)) to drive the car home (in case filling up the transmission fixes the issue for the moment), before you do a full ATF change at home with suitable ATF and figure out, what the root cause of the issue is (eg a leak).

I think the flip remotes take CR2025 button cells. But there can be many reasons for a problematic remote, not just the battery.

 

Thanks, will have it shipped to my home during the week, then I can start inspecting it...

 

OK, so the car is now delivered. This is an attempt to give you all the info I have...

The seller mentioned 3 issues to me:

1. Remotes didn't work (changed batteries in both, so now one of them works)
2. No main beam light (haven't looked at that)
3. The Gearbox Fault (and Cruise not Available)

I now had a readout from my icarsoft I bought for 2007 XKR.

First, the icarsoft wants me to choose 2001-2003 or 2004-, I think it's a 2003, can I tell for sure by the VIN?

Here are the codes I read:Engine:

P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1

P0430 same, bank 2

P1236 fuel pump not working when requested

P1643 can link engine control unit/transmission control unit circuit/ network malfunction

P1582 flight recorder data is stored/ electric throttle monitor data available

B1236 door window glass feedback loss of signal



Instrument pack

U1900 can comm bus fault passive anti theft system



Climate 7 different fails, like the one I listed

B1262 defrost servo motor circuit failure

Etc



Audio 3 different fails



General Electronics control module

Link error



Park sensor

C1704 right rear corner sensor fail

C1703 circuit failure
--
Does that help?
Thanks

 

I will go thru your mail in more detail later - first up:
You get the first rough idea which model year you have from the 10st digit of your VIN. Also Check the table below in regards to prefix 12-17 to get a better idea:

 

The in-tank fuel pump motors can get worn carbon brushes and become intermittent causing no start or engine cutting out.

The catalyst error codes 420 & 430 could be HO2 sensors malfunctioning, check they are plugged in, have resistance of heater in each unit. Check Fuses 38 and 42 (both 20A) in power distribution fuse box as they supply HO2 heater elements.

1643 error, check you have continuity in CAN wiring between ECM and TCM. If wiring intact with no open circuit of shorts, then you might look to take TCM out, open it up and check if there is any water corrosion in plug or on inside. The TCM can get water run down the loom into it if the drain holes that prevent the cabin filter intake under the scupper get clogged.

 

Super Peter and Mark :-)
It's a 2003 for sure.
-Fuel pumps, well engine runs fine and starts without problems
-Catalysts/HO2 etc, I will chcek
-1643. With no Haynes manual yet, I wouldn't know an ECM or a TCM if I saw it, not used to working on so new cars. Can you point me to where they are so I can check wiring and take TCM out and examine?

One more question, what you almost fear most, aftermarket electrical additions. My X has 2 relays, three (empty) fuseboxes and a Ezetil battery guard, all placed on a bracket in front of master cylinder behind battery (this is a LHD car). That's not OEM? All fuses are out, and since I have no lights, I would guess it's a daytime running lights addition that doesn't work anymore.

 

Some analysis:
-HO2 on front exhaust is attached. On rear I couldn't find it to see. Both fuses are OK
-I took out the transmission fluid level bolt, shown by Peter. I don't have a gold 6 sided bolt, I have an Allen bolt. I took it out, and fluid came out, and kept coming. I lost my nerve and put it back in, is this really the right one, it sits so low in the transmission. And oil kept coming. So either I'm doing it wrong, or it's overfilled. Good news, fluid was reddish and not smelling burned.
Should I really let it all flow out? I assume you fill it at that hole, so how did someone get to overfill so much?

 

About that ATF check bolt: Maybe there are variations of how the bolt looks like (mine are all like that in the picture), but if it is in that exact location at the side of where the gear selector cable connects to the transmission, it would be the check bolt. Yes, it is again logic look for the check bolt that low, but the secret is that the hole behind this bolt connects to a long pipe, which goes way up to a point where the ATF level should be WHILE the car is level (raised on four stands) and the ATF temp is about 40°C and the engine is running. If you open this plug without the engine running, a lot of ATF will flow out there.
If your fluid is red, this means that somebody already did an ATF change as the OE ATF is brownish, I think. The Fuchs Titan, which I used, is also red, I had to use this, as none of the first choice ATF are available in Australia. However, I am confident that that Fuchs Titan is way better than general multi-purpose ATF, which are also red, and which I would assume are in your car. So as soon as you fixed all other problems, I would recommend a complete ATF change (see my thread about that above).

Try to make the second remote work as well (check for cold solder points or dirt in the micro-switches). But it not, not that bad:
Understand that "remote" and "transponder" are 2 different things. Important is that you have 2 OE keys.
I have 4 keys for all my cars. On the X-Type it is fairly easy to self-program remotes of replacement keys (Aliexpress might be a good source for them). And as for the transponders, which are in your keys in the shape of a little capsule: They should not ever get damaged and they do not run on batteries. There is an easy trick (if you have 2 OE keys) to self-program 2 more replacement keys (regarding that transponder in those other 2 keys).

I am no expert in failure codes. Just a note that generally O2 sensors might want to be replaced and knock-sensors, too.

 

If you visit JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource you can download PDFs of schematics and OBD codes for your year X-Type.

The additional aftermarket relays might have been added to bypass failed integrated system relays which are part of the power distribution fuse box and there are additional ones in the passenger fuse box.

ECM = Engine Control Module, located in engine bay on far right of firewall. (meaning passenger side for LHD models)
TCM = Transmission Control Module, located in cabin, left A pillar footwell under dress cover.
Can wires are in pairs (one solid yellow, other solid green), schematic will show all CAN wiring layout late in schematics (last few pages).

 

No more time today, will go on tomorrow. Just remembered one thing I saw when looking for problems in engine room. The thottle sensor(?) on the left side of the manifold, the connector was kept on with a ziptie. It looks solid enough, but at least it probably means somebody worked on it earlier?

 

Plastics can get brittle especially with engine heat exposure.
Yes the plug retaining clips can just break off when you try to release a plug. I have a couple of failed plugs on mine.

 

As mark wrote: Plastic in the engine compartment do not appreciate the heat form the engine and most people are not sufficiently careful when handling the connectors and the clips break and the zip-tie is the usual band-aid.
I recommend that before disconnecting any connector (where you feel a clip could break), you heat up the connector a bit with a heat-gun first to make the brittle plastic softer before opening it. Having a screwdriver at hand as lever when opening the connectors helps most of the time.

A warning in time: Do not pull in desperation on the vacuum hoses in an attempt to pull them out. They are most brittle and many are connected via a method no one would be able to understand, if he does not know about it: where those thin plastic hoses are apparently stuck e.g. into the air-intake at a point where you see a little black grommet around it...: That is not a grommet, but a sophisticated locking mechanism: Push that "grommet" (it is plastic) with a screwdriver towards the air-intake and then pull carefully on the hose, wiggle a bit, and it will come out.

 

An update:
-I had checked the oil level the wrong way, I now did it the right way, and not a drop of oil came out, so I've ordered oil so I later can fill it up until it runs out (engine running, 40C)

-I've tried to remove all that is not OEM, tonnes of wires. I removed a Webasto engine heater wiring, and a GPS tracker. Didn't make any difference of course to gearbox, but made engine room and under dash a lot more tidy. I did have no A/C fan afterwards, and I guess the Webasto function includes controlling the fan, so I have to find where the Webasto installers took over the fan wiring and get it made as OEM

-I still have no headlights, no low beam or high beam. I've been looking for an unoriginal daytime driving lights module, but got the light switch out, expecting to see it behind there, but nothing

-And now for the most important item, gearbox fault. Cleared the codes, took a trip, and the code list is now quite different, with some repeats. Note that I suspect the new two wheel sensor errors to be the result of me running the engine on the lift, because the ABS lamp lit up during that. That ABS lamp is now not lit. Just a guess...

Here's the new list (excluding A/C Audio etc):Engine

P1643 can link control unit/ transmission control unit circuit/network malfunction

C1155 wheel speed front left

C1165 wheel speed rear right circuit failure

C1582 flight recorder data is stored, throttle monitor available

ABS

C1233 front left wheel speed signal missing

C1235 rear right speed signal missing

Instrument

U1900 CAN communications bus fault passive anti theft

U2511 CAN data mismatch

B2879 Fuel tank jet pump fault

 

HI, you removed stuff (e.g. Webasto), which apparently worked, and not you have a fan, which does not work.
I wouldn't have done that. If something works, leave it and fix the stuff, which does not work first, otherwise you will have a hard time figuring out as to why something does not work. Step by step. Once, everything works, you can remove Webasto.

Regarding the headlights: Check fuses. I found some info regarding fuses over time and saved them in a word doc. I just converted that info into a PDF and attached it below. Note the youtube links: They are quite good.

 

While working on my headlights, no success yet, I noticed that with ignition on, this throttle position sensor(?) made a lot of noise, as if small wheels were turning inside.

1. Is it a TPS? Should it make noise?
2. I can't get it off, apparently I need tools that are like torx, but only 5 pointy? Do they have a name?
3. The two wires going to it, connector is broken and it's kept on with ziptie. I think it is possible that they could be reversed? If normal, which color wire goes on top?
4.