On the JagRepair side found good help with most things electrical, but I'm missing overview of wires in connectors, here IP17 on the light switch. Would anybody know where information on the many connectors are. And colors, I assume GB is Green Black?

Thanks!

 

Your picture shows the complete throttle actuator (not sure, if that is the correct terminology), not just the TPS.
I do not have the 5-star-tool either: It's a hint! You are not supposed to remove this part.
xr845053 is the P/N of the throttle body. It comes as one unit. Here is the drawing:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...ttle-body.html

I don't think it is supposed to make permanently noises - I can tell you probably in two days.

Connectors are normally designed in a way which do not allow accidental incorrect connection - they should fit just one way.
Sorry, I can't tell you the colour of my wires, as I just taped up all my wire-ends - this is why:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ny-car-269564/

 

<Good news I think. I'll spare you the long story how I got to this, but fuse F67 was burned, that's why I had no lights. I then read that that fuse also handles automatic transmission control! Put in new fuse, the Gearbox Fault disappeared! :-).

But I couldn't drive to test, because the new fuse burned quickly, 20 seconds perhaps.

According to manual, this fuse protects:
F67 5 amp Battery back-up sounder, transit relay, HID/dip relay, auxiliary vacuum pump control, automatic transmission control module (2002-2003)
How do I go about finding what is burning the fuse? I don't even know what battery backup sounder, transit relay and aux vacuum pump control are?

 

It sound like all the consumers on that fuse are low current consumers.
You write that the new fuse lasted 20 seconds.
This actually suggests to me that the reason is not a straight short in a cable - but maybe a an intermittent short...
I'd suggest to try as best as you can looking for damaged wiring (which is a good idea anyway).
Another idea would be to measure the current draw on the fuse, i.e. place a multimeter in current measuring setting (cables might have to be connected differently on the multimeter) in line with the fuse.
Next I would just replace the 5A fuse with 7.5A or even 10A, but not higher.

 

Good hunting so far!
F67 is only a 5 Amp fuse, so is not meant to carry much load.
The fact it is not evaporating immediately, probably means the load is significantly higher than expected, but possibly not a dead short.

Working through the schematic, you have correctly identified most of the features that have an association to that fuse.
Let's take a minute to look at each one....

Transit relay (physically doesn't exist in car as removed by dealership once delivered to them). The only remnant you will find is a disused two wire plug (probably floating around the battery box if not clipped into it).

Vacuum pump - Fitted to early production models and the later models fitted with the 2.1 litre engines. The function of the pump was to enhance the brake servo vacuum boost in the event manifold vacuum dipped too low. Ultimately found to be unnecessary, the unit can be disconnected and/or removed. There is a vacuum controller module situated under the battery box which you can unplug to see if that stops your F67 repeatedly blowing. You can simply secure and insulate the disconnected plug if you find that your problem is associated with the vacuum pump system.

Dip relay (Relay R9 in power distribution fuse box) - Fuse 67 is used to supply just the relay energizing coil (not the headlight load), so a possible bad relay drawing too much coil current could overload the fuse. Test by not turning on lights at all and see if F67 still fails. If it does, the fault is elsewhere.

TCM relay (Relay R8 in power distribution fuse box) - Fuse 67 is used to supply just the relay energizing coil as well, so a possible bad relay drawing too much coil current could overload the fuse. Test by removing R8, also remove R6 (AC compressor relay) and fit R6 to R8 position (leaving R6 position open temporarily) to see if fuse 67 keeps failing.

 

Success, Gearbox Fault and Cruise not Available are gone, and it drives nice. Couldn't have done it without you guys :-)

Removed TCM-, Horn-, DIP and Battery Backup-relay. Had run out of 5A fuses, put 7.5A in, and now it works. Could it just be the difference between 5 and 7.5? Or I got lucky wiggling something? Or relays helped by taken out and in?

Great.
Remaining issues (that I haven't spent time on yet):
-First AC blower stopped working during my work
-Now entire AC doesn't work, meassage on screen, Communication error, contact dealer
-Check engine light is still on

Phew, didn't have to take out/rebuild/replace gearbox :-)

 

AC is totally dead now, can't even read faults on icarsoft anymore, "Link error"

 

Your blower and A/C issues started when you removed the Webasto.
I am not too sure, why you removed it in the first place - but can't you just put it back?

There are many reasons for the check engine light possible. a.) Do you have restricted performance as well? b.) Do you have TCS (traction control system) failure as well?
If a.) Maybe it is a faulty knock sensor
If b.) Maybe there is a broken cable going to one of the 4 speed sensors, or a speed sensor is faulty, or the speed sensors (or the opposing toothed wheels) are simply dirty.

I assume you checked the engine oil level?

You may also want to do a "reset": Disconnect both battery cables, wait a while and then even hold the plus and minus cable together (obviously with the battery totally out of the loop), and then reconnect and check if it improved anything.

 

Webasto, I think it was unavoidable getting it out. Wires were cut, the 4 fuse holders were empty, so it hadn't had a function I think. It can't come back in. That said, yes, it's probably more intertwined with AC system than I realized. Any advice (without Webasto)?

Pictures:

1. Webasto removed (the big box actually doing the work is still sitting below battery)
2. A bit scary to see this back of the AC, cut and soldered? Webasto connected)
3. These two male/female 4 wire connectors go together nicely, but were just laying there, not connected, how do I find out what they are? One wire seems to be Black/Purple, can't find that in the manual
4. 

 

Sorry, I have never been digging around behind my A/C unit.
So even before you removed the Webasto, your did not have any A/C?
But for all I know the CD player in the boot (I assume you have one, or would you even have a nav unit, too?) is connected to the Radio/A/C-unit in the front. Thus, it's complex.

 

OK, enough for today, last update.
Timeline:

1. When I test drove the car initally, AC worked fine
2. When I removed Webasto, AC seemed to work, but no blower. A bit hard to say without driving and without blower, IIRC there was a functioning menu
3. After getting the Gearbox fault fixed and taking out relays and all that (though not AC I think), communication with AC is lost, and even code reader can't read AC

About 2., I know why now, yes the Webasto had wiring controlling the blower, I have removed the non-OEM wires there as well.

So I'm down to one problem that I don't know how to fix, the lack of AC communication. I'll start another post on that... (Edit, found others with same problem, most got them solved by charging/replacing battery, will charge overnight)

Thanks

 

Just to add as you pointed me in that direction. I have Nav and that didn't work before, took the disc out and put it in, now it works (though disc is from 2001). I also have CD changer, but I get ERROR on the screen, and I can't get the box out, even though there's a nice green light in the eject button.
How can so many things go wrong in only 20 years?

 

I mentioned already 2 days ago, that I will have in 2 days (=now) an answer for you:
You were worried about the noises from the the throttle actuator...
I can put you mind at ease there: I have to assume that that is normal, as my 2004 2.5L X and my 2006 2.1L X both create a very similar and peculiar noise: It sounds like a mixture of an air-raid-alarm and a swarm of bees... It starts after the ignition is switched into the on position and it ends a few seconds after turning the ignition to the off position...

About your entry just above: A lot! A lot can go wrong in 20 years and if someone does funny modification, things might go wrong immediately (Webasto).

Regarding can bus I cannot assist, sadly. I did the electrical design for some switches (especially the light switch) on the X400 (=X-Type), but I got never involved into the can bus... (I worked for about 1.5 years for Jaguar in Coventry).

 

cool. So maybe you have diagram of connector so I can test? Issue right now is that I have nice driving lights (via fuse F67) but I cannot turn on lights via switch, MOT guy won't like that

 

I don't have diagrams from back then... - but what is the problem? Is it that you cannot switch the lights off and they are always on with ignition on? If that is the case, that would be design intent...: You are in Denmark. Is Denmark one of those countries, where it is mandatory to have low beam (dipped) lights on all the time, even during the day, so that lights are automatically on, when ignition is on? If it is not mandatory in Denmark, I am fairly sure that I remember that it is mandatory in Sweden. Hence, maybe that X-Type of yours was meant to go to Sweden, or someone put a Swedish light-switch into your X-Type... ?

PS: After all, Sweden is just "across the pond"... (as seen from Denmark)
PS2: I just googled the answer: In Denmark (just as it is in Sweden) it is mandatory to have dipped lights on all the time, hence, you cannot switch it off... (you could say, that I did that by designing (as requested by law) the light-switch variant for your country... )

 

Problem is that without igniton on I can't turn on low beam. I can turn on parking lights all the way around and fog lamps front and back, but not low beams

 

> Problem is that without igniton on I can't turn on low beam. I can turn on parking lights all the way around and fog lamps front and back, but not low beams

If I remember correctly, that is just as it is supposed to be! Why would you want to drain your battery by switching on those big consumers (headlights), then the engine is not running? And you should not turn on the fog lights without engine running either, but I think we left it to the brains of the user not to do that...

PS: I just edited my entry above, so better refresh and read it again.

 

Putting som miles (and smiles) on, driving it. A few niggles, like defect rear right park sensor, and indoor temp fan/sensor not arrived yet, so A/C does its own thing. And a 2001 GPS system is a fun thing to use

I managed to get Check Engine Light off by deleting codes, but it comes back every time I for a few minutes go above 80 km/h. The most persistent code is P0430, and I've read Mark's "The catalyst error codes 420 & 430 could be HO2 sensors malfunctioning, check they are plugged in, have resistance of heater in each unit. Check Fuses 38 and 42 (both 20A) in power distribution fuse box as they supply HO2 heater elements." and will do that.

Also I now have:
P1582 "Flight Recorder" data stored. This code does not indicate a failure of a component or system.
B1236 B1236 Jaguar Window Feedback Loss of Signal

Am I right that it's P0430 that triggers the CEL? Can I ignore the others (window works fine)? Can I somewhere easily see which codes actually trigger the CEL?

 

Hi Michael,
I truly hope that your P0430 errors are just HO2 sensor related, but I have a nagging thought because of the 80kph triggering that you might have a Cat converter core that might be breaking down and creating a restriction and reporting as out of spec.

If you are accessing the sensors, you might consider taking the opportunity to look at the Cat to rule it out while there. If you have a borescope, you might be able to get a look inside the bank 2 cat via the HO2 sensor holes to check the internal ceramic honeycomb structure integrity.

 

Regarding possibly damaged cats with loose honeycomb:
Maybe this observation of mine helps (or not) as even those faults probably differ from case to case:
I had a rattle coming from the engine of my X308 every time at first startup of the day for 5 - 10 seconds.
I never tried to find the origin of that noise, as I was sure that it is the old timing chains and tensioners, which want to be replaced (and they needed to be replaced anyway). But, after I replaced them, that same rattle was still there... Now I looked for the source of the noise: It was one of the cats. And that meant: loose honeycomb in the cat... I bought 2 new cats, 4 O2 sensors and installed the lot: All good now...
Thus, what I am saying: Do you have noises coming from the cats? That would support Mark's suggestion. But even if it does not rattle, it could still be that.