No rattles that I've noticed. Will examine, electrics first, but a few days into the future...

 

Hhmm, today 3 hours at 110+ km/h, and the CEL didn't come on. Maybe I got lucky and blew all the cobwebs out?

 

Yes, "Just drive, she said" and it fixed the problem... I had that before as well, plus I hope, that will also stop my ABS light from annoying me. But I have to put the carpet back in (plus, seat help, too) and redo the headliner first, before I can drive...

 

Today I got P1236 after 80+ trip. P0430 has not come back. P1236 I've seen before so it comes and goes. Any ideas? Should I wait to see if it comes back?
Concern with fuel
pump commands
(no commands
received by ECM)
ECM to fuel pump control
module control and/or
feedback circuits; open
circuit, short circuit, high
resistance
Fuel pump control module
failure

 

Peter or Mark, I reach out to you, because I remember one of you were at the factory in Coventry, but can't remember who. Let me tell you, I have a lot of respect of what the factory people did, and often less respect for know-it-alls that changes things and thinks they're more clever than the factories ;-)

The reason I bring this up here, is my 2007 XKR, a fabulous car. Here's the issue. Two year's ago, it overheated crossing Gross Glockner, and I drove it fast! I have added a digital water temp gauge, Jaguar forgot. Normally it says 90-93C. In the mountains often 97-98C. But that day it crossed into the hundreds, and at 104C it cooked. Shut it off, waited half an hour, put tonnes of new water in it, drove carefully, and no problems. When I got home I changed the radiator "cap". No problems since, driving in flat Denmark...

Fast forward to now: I'm back in the Alps, no overheating, but on lengthy drives up, it shows up to 101C. Should I be worried? What's normal temperature? What's limit for boiling? Does it actually boil and then create so much pressure that it escapes the system? Or does it build up so much pressure that it escapes, and when it does, pressure is lowered and it boils?

I'm sure that if I pose these questions to the forum, I'll get 20 different answers. Any "factory-certified-answers"? Thanks

 

Yes, it was me, who worked in Coventry. Not in the factory, though, but doing the electrical design on X400 (X-Type) switches, mainly the light switch. But that does not make me the one, who can give "factory-certified-answers"...

Also, I can't answer your question, as I do not have a water-temp-gauge.

But I can have a guess: If you violate the golden rule never to open the coolant reservoir when it is hot, you will seriously burn yourself with boiling coolant. Knowing that this would happen, I conclude that coolant temperatures of 104°C are still the normal range when driving in extreme territory like up the Gross Glockner.

Back then, many decades ago, I drove myself a few times with my mother over the Gross Glockner, destination Lienz for skiing. And at one of the very first trips there, the snow-conditions became seriously bad, and my mother did not trust herself to drive in those conditions. She was happy for me to drive though... - although I did not have a driver's license yet... I had had quite a few driving lessons, but I did not have a license back then... Anyway, this was a VW Polo. It drove up and down the Gross Glockner (with chains), no problems, but I felt that the car had to chew quite a bit. Obviously, you drive OVER the Gross Glockner rather than thru the tunnel to save money, but I am not sure. if I would not opt to pay the extra money for the tunnel, if I were to drive in a XKR... Also note that I do not understand, why a lot of luxury cars have rear wheel drive rather than front wheel drive - sure, for Australia it does not matter (I have never seen snow here!), but when it comes to climbing the Gross Glockner (or even driving in a European winter with snow on the road)... The big joke something like 5 decades ago was that Mercedes recommended to put a few sacks of sand into the boot over the winter-month to get some traction (because obviously, rear wheel drive is unsuitable for slippery roads - that was before the time of ESP - Electronic Stability Control - not that that could substitute front wheel drive...). But back to your mountain: I would feel much saver in a cheap VW Polo (which had front wheel drive) on a slippery road there than in a luxury rear wheel drive...

About your other question: The coolant system is a closed system - a closed pressure system. It should definitely not leak because the coolant gets hot, that is: It SHOULD NOT leak, if the system has not defect. Obviously, there is always a chance that the closed cooling system is not closed any more, because it is defective and has a leak... If that is the case, you have a problem, even more so when tackling the Gross Glockner.

Also: Word of warning: If for some reason you find yourself in a situation, where you lost all or a lot of coolant without noticing and you are driving more or less "on empty": Stop the car and DON'T just fill water into the madly hot system. I can tell you exactly, what will happen: You wreck your engine by doing so and you need a tow-truck for your car. I did that on my van many decades ago: If you fill cold water into a madly hot engine, the cylinder head will warp! That that does not mean that you have a warp-drive from that time onwards to boldly go where no man has gone before...

It means that there will be many gaps between upper and lower half of the engine, and no compression (apart from various leaks).
Thus, if that happens (i.e. the coolant system is close to empty), the only chance to possibly saving your engine is to wait many hours until the engine is cold enough to refill water into the coolant system.
But if your system does not overheat and does not leak coolant, you should be fine. Driving in those extreme conditions you want the ratio of coolant concentrate to distilled water to be 50:50.

Btw.: back then I stopped skiing and started snowboarding. I did a 2 day course and did not even attend the second day, as I got the hang of it after one day... ...and Lienz was only were I went as a kid. After I discovered St. Anton, it was only St. Anton and no more Gross Glockner, but there as another steep mountain-pass on that route also...

 

Thanks Peter, I'm a bit less worried now...

Snowboarding after one day? I started skiing at 45 to go with my son so he could learn, have given up on ever snowboarding. I do remember a fun situation, I was skiing, and standing close to two girls,, teens, one was teaching the other to snowboard. Then she said those words I'll never forget: "Remember, speed is your friend". :-)

 

Let me pose the question another way, and maybe you're not the one to answer. If you a well functioning cooling system with a 15PSi cap, at what temperature will it boil/burst out?

 

> "Remember, speed is your friend". :-)
And right she is! Seriously! I was already windsurfing back then - hence I had a feel for balance. On a snowboard your can only have balance with speed - standing there you can only decide, if your want to fall over to the left or to the right... All you need to know about snowboarding is that you have to claw the inner (that is the side of the board that is inside of the curve-radius your are bout to tackle) metal-edge into the mountain, plus, your weight has to be inside of the curve. And speed. That's all.

And yes: I do not know the 15PSI answer...

 

But I found something for you (and I added the temps in °C:Pressurizing the cooling system is one way to raise the boiling point of the coolant and also aids in moving it through the cylinder head. The radiator cap determines what the pressure ceiling in the system will be, as it contains a release valve that will open when the maximum pressure is reached. For a typical muscle-era cooling system, the radiator cap is set to maintain 15 psi of pressure.

For every pound over atmospheric pressure, the boiling point of a liquid is raised three degrees F. Pure water under 15 psi of pressure will not boil until 257 degrees F (=125°C). With the introduction of glycol (anti-freeze), the boiling point is raised approximately 14 degrees F . A 50/50 anti-freeze/water mixture will not boil until approximately 271 degrees F (=133°C).

SO there you have it. So you want the high pressure to delay the boiling point, but you can't let the pressure increase definitely, or everything would burst. If the coolant boils, it contains bubbles and has only very minimal cooling effect. And back to your question: If you exceed the 15psi, the "valve" in your cap will open and release pressure - that's all - and possibly a bit of coolant to, but in limits, thus all good. But with 104°C coolant your cannot open that valve...

And here you see: That was proof that I am an engineer, because while I did not know the answer to your question, it did not take me long to work it out... It's just as one of my professors at uni once said: "You don't have to know all the answers, you just have to know, where to find the answer" - which was about the only useful thing I ever learned at uni...

 

Allow me a perhaps naive question. My X-Type has many options, I was lucky, but it misses one thing I would like: heated seats. The buttons on each side of warning flasher aren't there, but there's enough wires behind that panel for it. Could it be that Jaguar put heater elements in all seats to ease logistics so I could get it working with a new panel with buttons and perhaps some fuses/relays?
Or were heater elements too expensive for that? Interesting thought, not? Hidden options

 

It's a good question.
I googled this and came up with that:
https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/x-ty...t-seats/218492

So maybe this link gives you some indications what to look for to find the answer. But given that the heated seats option was very expensive back then, my guess this as follows:
It might well be that the extra wiring you found behind the panel are indeed the wires for heated seats. But that does not mean that you have heated seats. I would suspect that the wires ends at both ends unconnected (behind the panel and at the seat), and that these extra wires are in the loom for the exact reason that you suspect - you call it to "ease logistics" - the proper term is to "reduce complexity", and this is something often done with wiring looms (=harnesses), I know that, because I worked for Ford and Jaguar as engineer for switches and wiring. But again: This is reduce complexity (= the number of different variations) of the wiring loom, not the seats...

Btw.: I never looked, if I have heated seats...: I would never ever need them in Australia...

 

It is possible the heater elements are there, you would need to physically check the seats to see if you have a two pin plug coming out of the seat back of each seat and a 4 pin plug from the seat cushion of each seat.
If you have those, then the heating elements and temperature sensor may very well be present in the cushions.

However, you probably cannot just add the heated seat switches in the centre console to activate the feature, as they are just an input to the front electronics module which actually supplies the current for the set heaters.
Instead, you would need to add the switches as well as probably get the front electronics module configuration updated so the car is aware the heated seat feature now exists and enable the feature.
That process is a whole different can of worms as you are needing to access the factory settings which is generally only via factory and authorized dealer, unless you have access to that setup software yourself or know someone that does.

 

Thanks guys, makes sense, and you talked me out of pursuing this. Just retired, so the many going-to-work-in-the-cold mornings are behind me :-)

 

If the elements are actually there, you could always use a PWM 12 volt motor speed controller of a suitable current capability to manually drive the seat heaters. Such controllers are cheap as chips on eBay.

Just have to pick up a suitable sized unit that has a speed control knob, find a suitable 12v power source that is only present with ignition on and install a manual switch so you can switch it on and off via a relay (so you on /off switch doesn't carry the full current load, just relay coil drive load). Make sure you have the circuit fused, so any fault will self isolate.
You then just adjust the speed control pot to your comfort level on the day.
It won't initially have any temperature feedback from the seat, but if you're into electronics, you could use the integrated seat thermocouple to feed back into the speed control circuit to help regulate the output.

 

Guys, time for the last itme that didn't work when I bought this car. The backup sensors. The right rear gave a fault on OBD, and the symptoms were: A loud chime for 3-5 second when using R, and no other chimes even if close to a wall. So I assume the error makes the system not work.
So I was trying to find another sensor. Bought 2 from the local cheapo guys, connectors were different, no use. So I bought more expensively from SNG Barrett. Connector inside is not 100% the same, some "obstructions" are not there, so maybe it's more generic? But when installed, the chime goes on in R, and stays on.
So, with old, 3-5 second chime
With the new, constant chime
And no proper functioning
I was considering just disconnecting it all, but F79 also controls backup lights

Where can I buy the right one? Or is the problem something else? Or how can I disconnect it all?

 

What part number did you receive?
What is the VIN# of your car?
Sensors changed during production run, so VIN will determine your sensor type.

 

I am also at odds with my parking aid. I do not even know, if I have an OE parking aid, or an aftermarket system.
Anyways: After trying a few things in vain, I simply disabled that nonsense:
2 options to do that: Pull the power supply plug to the parking aid module or pull the plug from the parking aid module to the speaker.
I find this "chime", a.k.a. "annoying beeping", to be a nuisance at the best of times, even if it works as designed.

But if you want to give it a go - based upon your description I got 2 suggestions: If the only thing, that is wrong with the "cheapo" sensors is that the connector is wrong: Swap that connector with your old OE connector of the old damaged senor. And: I assume you cleaned the old connectors properly!?

Note that you can hear a very high frequency clicking sound from each working sensor, if the car is in reverse... - that is IF you can hear... - I can't - I have a problem with my ears - which also means: If you find a car with a functional parking aid, you can save yourself the trip to the audiologist to have your ears checked...

 

Will look at it later. For now:
VIN SAJAA51M83XD10543
Old sensor (hard to read): 688551 ?
New sensor: 688 632 1 and 687855 SK1
Just noticed looking into the connectors on the old and new, the 1, 2 and 3 markings are different! The old has 2 on top, the new has 3. Why aren't these things standardized? ;-)

 

Given up, tried crossing wires so numbers matched. And thanks for tip about them clicking, in the end they all did. Still they don't work. Now gotta find the parking aid module and disconnect. Just done now, no annoying sound