long temper ...short fuse???
#1
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I recentley had a hell of a time..putting in some hid's ..not because their hard to do but because i was a total noob at car mechanic's.Anyway..upon looking at my fuse box,I noticed it looks nothing like my manual..now i know later year model's have upgraded fuse boxesand such..but i bought my car used,and have sneeking suspicion some of the fuses are the inncorrect size..does anyone have an official fuse box diagram for a 2004 x..(same as thermos)..I would like to see if they all match up,
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#2
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Irish, what is the month that your car was built in? If in doubt, look in the driver's door jam and it will say there. The MY 2004 cars had some changes incorporated part way through the model year. So, it is possible someone was trying to help you out and got a 2004 owner's manual for you, but didn't know about the upgrades that occurred. So, in the end, they got you the wrong owners manual.
I do have access to the fuse boxes for both pre and post 2004 upgrades. So, if you are after just those two things, I am sure I can hook you up with that.
I do have access to the fuse boxes for both pre and post 2004 upgrades. So, if you are after just those two things, I am sure I can hook you up with that.
#3
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nice I'll need those..but guess what,I did get my car for a good deal..all checked out for accidents,and theft,,but the door jam car tag has been wiped,that right wiped clean,The more oi think about it the more i get suspicious,I was at the dealer one time and he said it common for them to be like that but I dont know.Anyways I think i will need those,and is there a way to tell what month besides that sticker?
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Irish, the only garanteed way I can tell you if you have a pre- or post- 2004 car is to go to the dealership and have them do some looking inside the computer. They should be able to access the build info on the car and tell you the exact build date. After that, if you look on a lot of the plastic parts, you will see what looks like a clock. That is actually the date the part was cast. You can take those dates and see which one is the newest and you will know that the car had to be made some time after that. This will be true unless the parts have been replaced, but then, that should be obvious since you will have dates that are dramatically different than what most of the dates are.
I will work on getting the fuse box images made up for you.
I will work on getting the fuse box images made up for you.
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Hey guys I am new in the forum but loving it already I am learning lots.. anyways I am also trying to install some HIDs on my X type but I am hoping to make a clean install. Basically I am trying to avoid having to run wires from the battery to the headlights and the relay and so for.. so my question is: does the x type electrical system comes ready for the HIDs? is there anyway way I can simulate a factory install and avoid the weird wires from your battery?.. Thermo i noticed you had quite a lot of experience on HIDs an a bunch of other things so if you could please guide me on this I'd love to get rid off the factory headlights since they keep burning...
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R12, I have played with more cars than I care to admit to in my life. I love having a hobby like this.
As for wiring up the HIDs. Yes, you can wire the HIDs directly to the factory wiring of the non-HID headlights. Just keep in mind that you will be running wires out of the headlight housings to your ballasts and then back into the headlight housings to power the bulbs (not enough room inside for most ballasts).
With that being said, HID performance is partially based on the voltage getting to the HID ballasts (and therefore the bulb). The factory wiring is the bare minimum to make the HIDs work. Running a larger gauge wire will help ensure the ballasts get the maximum power and therefore lead to quicker start up times for the HIDs and also tax the wiring that much less leading to fewer problems in the future.
So, can you make the install simplier, yes. BUt it comes at a price. If you do run off of the factory wiring, make sure to keep the connections inside of the headlight assembly and to make sure to seal the wire junctions really good to prevent future issues with your joints.
As for wiring up the HIDs. Yes, you can wire the HIDs directly to the factory wiring of the non-HID headlights. Just keep in mind that you will be running wires out of the headlight housings to your ballasts and then back into the headlight housings to power the bulbs (not enough room inside for most ballasts).
With that being said, HID performance is partially based on the voltage getting to the HID ballasts (and therefore the bulb). The factory wiring is the bare minimum to make the HIDs work. Running a larger gauge wire will help ensure the ballasts get the maximum power and therefore lead to quicker start up times for the HIDs and also tax the wiring that much less leading to fewer problems in the future.
So, can you make the install simplier, yes. BUt it comes at a price. If you do run off of the factory wiring, make sure to keep the connections inside of the headlight assembly and to make sure to seal the wire junctions really good to prevent future issues with your joints.
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