Looking to buy a '08 X type
#1
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Hi all,
I am looking to convince my dad to buy an X-type rather than his choice which is a W203 Mercedes C200 Kompressor Automatic. I do this because I inherit whatever it is later on![Icon Wub](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wub.gif)
Specifically I am eyeing a 2008 X type with a 2.1 V6 automatic. I have searched this forum and read that earlier models having various issues and transfer cases having problems (I assume this only applies for AWD?) but not much seem to be there about the later models.
I guess the 2.1 being FWD will have less troubles and more issues sorted out being a later model.
My concerns are not MPG nor performance but acceptable level of reliability for its class and durability when maintained as factory intended.
And I love the looks of the X-type (especially the FL) and my dad wants an automatic only.
I am somewhat OK with a bit of wrenching and eBaying stuff.
What things should I look at when buying this later FL model? Can you please advice me on things to look for?
And any idea how this compares with a 2000cc C class Merc of that era?
In addition to that, with the parts availability and so on, is this a good model to keep as a 3rd or 4th car long term? Say 10-15 years?
Thank you so much
I am looking to convince my dad to buy an X-type rather than his choice which is a W203 Mercedes C200 Kompressor Automatic. I do this because I inherit whatever it is later on
![Icon Wub](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wub.gif)
Specifically I am eyeing a 2008 X type with a 2.1 V6 automatic. I have searched this forum and read that earlier models having various issues and transfer cases having problems (I assume this only applies for AWD?) but not much seem to be there about the later models.
I guess the 2.1 being FWD will have less troubles and more issues sorted out being a later model.
My concerns are not MPG nor performance but acceptable level of reliability for its class and durability when maintained as factory intended.
And I love the looks of the X-type (especially the FL) and my dad wants an automatic only.
I am somewhat OK with a bit of wrenching and eBaying stuff.
What things should I look at when buying this later FL model? Can you please advice me on things to look for?
And any idea how this compares with a 2000cc C class Merc of that era?
In addition to that, with the parts availability and so on, is this a good model to keep as a 3rd or 4th car long term? Say 10-15 years?
Thank you so much
#3
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Cyclops, most of the issues with the X-Type are going to be related to vacuum issues (atleast it is for the 2.5L and 3.0L models and I seem to remember that hte 2.1l motor is a spin off of this block). So, if you can follow what we mention here, we can fix most vacuum issues. From there, I would say that there are 3 more major issues you need to look at. To me, 2 of the 3 are just things to note and can be easily fixed. The third, that would be a show stopper. So, lets start with the show stopper. You don't mention where you are from, so I am making an assumption here (I know you are over in Europe, just not sure where). If you are in an area that uses salt on the road or is near the coast, this problem is going to be especially pronounced. If you look at the underside of the car, you will see where the car will rust. Unfortunately, where it rusts is a major structural part of the car. To repair this is very costly and in almost all cases, is more than the car is worth. So, you see rust on the underside of the doors, just walk away.
Now, for the other 2 issues, they both deal with the rear suspension. The first is the e-brakes. This seems to be hit and miss with the X-Types and what the problem is relates to the little lever on the rear calipers. This lever tends to rust up and keep the e-brake engaged on that one wheel, resulting in excessive heat generation and excessive pad wear. For the most part, the fix is to get a new caliper to install. replacement is easy, but when you are looking at $100 (USD) for a caliper and 2 hours of work, that can get pricy in the long run. I had this issue on my car and I was going thru a caliper a year. I have a write up on this very issue and ways to get around it. To see if the car suffers from this is easy to tell. You simply get in the car, release the e-brake and then re-apply. If the lever comes up say 10 CM and you can feel it gradually applying the rear brakes, then you are probably good. If the lever pulls up pretty high and is really easy, then you have an issue that will need repairing right after buying at a minimum.
The other issue is the suspension arms for the rear end. These will tend to be worn for the year car that you are looking at. The obvious thing is to simply look at the rear tires. Do they look like they are leaning in at the top? If so, then the top arm will require replacement. The next check is to look at the inside edge of the rear tires. Do these look to be worn much more than the outside edge? If yes, then odds are your lower/forward arms need to be replaced. Both will have the rubber insulators at the end of the bars wear out. The final check that I would tell you to try is to take the car out for a test drive. Find yourself a nice circle to drive through. half way through the circle, give the car some gas like you are going to accelerate out of the circle. Did you just about load your shorts because the back end felt like it was coming around on you (it won't, but it will be a bit of a surprise if you are not expecting it). If so, then you know the lower/forward arms are toast and need replacement.
After that, most of the problems you are going to have are ones that plague any car (worn shocks/struts, seat condition, etc). As for how the car compares to the MB, can't say. I drove my X-Type (2003 with the "bad" transfer case) out to 190K miles (300,000+ KM) with no major issues. Sure, I had to do brakes (suffered from the sticking e-brake, but that became part of my annual maintenance on the car), new tires, suspension components and plugs. But, most of that is normal wear and tear items of the car that will be expected with any car of that time frame. The X-Type is a good cruiser. Not much for light to light fun (atleast what I hear for those that have the 2.1L motor, the 3.0L I had, oh yeah, but it cost you with the transfer case).
So, in short, take a look at them, see what you can find and go from there. The one thing I will tell you about this site that you are not going to find in a lot of other sites is that we tend to be very nice, not say stupid stuff because you have posted the same question for the umpteenth time. We tend to redirect you to where it has been covered or simply state it yet, again. The X-type is a pretty easy car to work on and if you can fix a Ford, then you can fix this car. Can't say that I can say the same for the MB.
Now, for the other 2 issues, they both deal with the rear suspension. The first is the e-brakes. This seems to be hit and miss with the X-Types and what the problem is relates to the little lever on the rear calipers. This lever tends to rust up and keep the e-brake engaged on that one wheel, resulting in excessive heat generation and excessive pad wear. For the most part, the fix is to get a new caliper to install. replacement is easy, but when you are looking at $100 (USD) for a caliper and 2 hours of work, that can get pricy in the long run. I had this issue on my car and I was going thru a caliper a year. I have a write up on this very issue and ways to get around it. To see if the car suffers from this is easy to tell. You simply get in the car, release the e-brake and then re-apply. If the lever comes up say 10 CM and you can feel it gradually applying the rear brakes, then you are probably good. If the lever pulls up pretty high and is really easy, then you have an issue that will need repairing right after buying at a minimum.
The other issue is the suspension arms for the rear end. These will tend to be worn for the year car that you are looking at. The obvious thing is to simply look at the rear tires. Do they look like they are leaning in at the top? If so, then the top arm will require replacement. The next check is to look at the inside edge of the rear tires. Do these look to be worn much more than the outside edge? If yes, then odds are your lower/forward arms need to be replaced. Both will have the rubber insulators at the end of the bars wear out. The final check that I would tell you to try is to take the car out for a test drive. Find yourself a nice circle to drive through. half way through the circle, give the car some gas like you are going to accelerate out of the circle. Did you just about load your shorts because the back end felt like it was coming around on you (it won't, but it will be a bit of a surprise if you are not expecting it). If so, then you know the lower/forward arms are toast and need replacement.
After that, most of the problems you are going to have are ones that plague any car (worn shocks/struts, seat condition, etc). As for how the car compares to the MB, can't say. I drove my X-Type (2003 with the "bad" transfer case) out to 190K miles (300,000+ KM) with no major issues. Sure, I had to do brakes (suffered from the sticking e-brake, but that became part of my annual maintenance on the car), new tires, suspension components and plugs. But, most of that is normal wear and tear items of the car that will be expected with any car of that time frame. The X-Type is a good cruiser. Not much for light to light fun (atleast what I hear for those that have the 2.1L motor, the 3.0L I had, oh yeah, but it cost you with the transfer case).
So, in short, take a look at them, see what you can find and go from there. The one thing I will tell you about this site that you are not going to find in a lot of other sites is that we tend to be very nice, not say stupid stuff because you have posted the same question for the umpteenth time. We tend to redirect you to where it has been covered or simply state it yet, again. The X-type is a pretty easy car to work on and if you can fix a Ford, then you can fix this car. Can't say that I can say the same for the MB.
#4
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That is so spot on.
The 2.1V6 is Front Wheel Drive, so NO transfer case, centre shaft, rear diff.
I hated them when they arrived, had one as a drive car, talked the boss into a MK4 Golf.
I now have a 12/09 Build X Type LE 2.1V6, and 2 years in, SWEET AS, but we have NO snow, salt, just dirt roads and dust.
Multiple trans oil drop and refills now has the Auto changing gears sharp and smooth.
As said, DO YOUR homework, they can be a money pit for sure.
Good luck.
The 2.1V6 is Front Wheel Drive, so NO transfer case, centre shaft, rear diff.
I hated them when they arrived, had one as a drive car, talked the boss into a MK4 Golf.
I now have a 12/09 Build X Type LE 2.1V6, and 2 years in, SWEET AS, but we have NO snow, salt, just dirt roads and dust.
Multiple trans oil drop and refills now has the Auto changing gears sharp and smooth.
As said, DO YOUR homework, they can be a money pit for sure.
Good luck.
#5
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