Lots of strange problems
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am a fairly new owner (6 months) and have read a lot of things in the forum but didn't have a lot to contribute. My 2004 X-type 3.0 AWD ran superb for the first 4 months and then I took it for a trip to Florida (I live in Wilmington, NC)
On the way back, the ac stopped working and I thought I would get it looked at when I got home but no one here will touch the car. The battery died and so I got it replaced from batteries plus. The assured me it was the correct battery but told me the old one had a lot of corrosion on the positive post. Since then, I have had the following problems,
Check engine light comes on and stays on for a couple of days and then goes off...then comes on again
The washer light comes on, and goes off even though it full
It now will shift hard, sometimes, when I am slowing down, of speeding up
Sometimes the windows wont roll up all the way when I pull or push the buttons, you have to hold them, and sometimes you can lift it once and they roll all the way
The handbrake doesn't hold the car anymore
When I take the key out of the ignition, the lcd display flashes on and off about 10 times
Sometimes when I start, mostly in the morning, it revs high and then kind of splutters and will either cut out, or rev high, and then settle down
Sorry to bombard everyone with these but they all seem to be happening within the last couple of months and I am trying to find a dealer who knows the codes as AutoZone & Advanced Auto can only give me generic codes (possible fuel pump, possible fuel rail....)
Any help would be appreciated as I LOVE the car.
Thanks for reading
On the way back, the ac stopped working and I thought I would get it looked at when I got home but no one here will touch the car. The battery died and so I got it replaced from batteries plus. The assured me it was the correct battery but told me the old one had a lot of corrosion on the positive post. Since then, I have had the following problems,
Check engine light comes on and stays on for a couple of days and then goes off...then comes on again
The washer light comes on, and goes off even though it full
It now will shift hard, sometimes, when I am slowing down, of speeding up
Sometimes the windows wont roll up all the way when I pull or push the buttons, you have to hold them, and sometimes you can lift it once and they roll all the way
The handbrake doesn't hold the car anymore
When I take the key out of the ignition, the lcd display flashes on and off about 10 times
Sometimes when I start, mostly in the morning, it revs high and then kind of splutters and will either cut out, or rev high, and then settle down
Sorry to bombard everyone with these but they all seem to be happening within the last couple of months and I am trying to find a dealer who knows the codes as AutoZone & Advanced Auto can only give me generic codes (possible fuel pump, possible fuel rail....)
Any help would be appreciated as I LOVE the car.
Thanks for reading
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,431
Likes: 0
Received 3,915 Likes
on
3,217 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
drossy007, it sounds like you have a few issues going on. I would first start with replacing your positive battery cable. From the sounds of things, this cable is causing a lower voltage to the electrical system which will cause really weird things to happen. You can prove the cable bad by simply turning on a lot of the electrical loads (seat heaters, rear window defroster, dash fan) and then opening the hood and accessing the battery. If you put your hand over the positive battery terminal (do not touch it) and it is extremely warm/hot, then you have a bad cable.
I would also recommend stopping by your local auto parts store and getting the codes read. They should do this for free. This will give us a more detailed explanation of what is causing the car to think it has issues. Granted, the low voltage can cause lots of funny codes to appear for no reason. May even lead to the funny idle condition that you are seeing.
As for the brakes, this is a common issue with the X-TYpe. It is sounding like you have a caliper that has frozen up. If you apply the e-brake, I bet you can pull it fully up to the stop with very little difficulty. If you get under the car (with it properly braced to prevent it from rolling) and look under the center of the car where the e-brake is, you will see where a single cable pulls on a bar in the center and has 2 cables coming off it it (one on each end). The bar should be perpendicular to both rear wheels. If the bar is pointing at one of the rear wheels, that is the one with the frozen caliper. You can prove it by removing the wheel and releasing the e-brake. You can then attempt to move the lever with your hand. It should move with some force, but no need for a prybar or like tool. A new caliper can be had for around $100 or so on e-bay. You may even find that both of your rear calipers are having issues. So, I would check both just to make sure.
If you need more help, let us know. As you can see, we have the answers to what you are after.
I would also recommend stopping by your local auto parts store and getting the codes read. They should do this for free. This will give us a more detailed explanation of what is causing the car to think it has issues. Granted, the low voltage can cause lots of funny codes to appear for no reason. May even lead to the funny idle condition that you are seeing.
As for the brakes, this is a common issue with the X-TYpe. It is sounding like you have a caliper that has frozen up. If you apply the e-brake, I bet you can pull it fully up to the stop with very little difficulty. If you get under the car (with it properly braced to prevent it from rolling) and look under the center of the car where the e-brake is, you will see where a single cable pulls on a bar in the center and has 2 cables coming off it it (one on each end). The bar should be perpendicular to both rear wheels. If the bar is pointing at one of the rear wheels, that is the one with the frozen caliper. You can prove it by removing the wheel and releasing the e-brake. You can then attempt to move the lever with your hand. It should move with some force, but no need for a prybar or like tool. A new caliper can be had for around $100 or so on e-bay. You may even find that both of your rear calipers are having issues. So, I would check both just to make sure.
If you need more help, let us know. As you can see, we have the answers to what you are after.
The following users liked this post:
drossy007 (11-05-2015)
#3
#5
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,431
Likes: 0
Received 3,915 Likes
on
3,217 Posts
The following users liked this post:
drossy007 (11-07-2015)
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So new problem, I was driving to work and the car died. It would start but ran really rough as if it was out of gas. The display showed 63 miles left. I got it to a gas station and put $20 of gas in it and it now runs fine. I'm picking up a negative and positive battery cable today and will be replacing them tomorrow. I'll post pictures if anyone wants to see
Trending Topics
#8
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,431
Likes: 0
Received 3,915 Likes
on
3,217 Posts
#9
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks thermo. I just went to advanced auto and the cable looks nothing like what I have on the car. I hope its ok to post the link to the part,if not, could the moderator remove it please.
Here is what they suggest
AutoCraft Battery Cable, Top Post Terminal, 4 Gauge, 78" AC145/A2010478: Advance Auto Parts
Here is what they suggest
AutoCraft Battery Cable, Top Post Terminal, 4 Gauge, 78" AC145/A2010478: Advance Auto Parts
#10
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I took out the battery and all the cables look fine. I did notice a connector that was attached to the base of the battery box but its not connected to anything. Can anyone tell me what it does?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1447270454
I did find a loose connector, it looks like the tab that snaps it in is broken. I seems to connect fine but I don't know what it does or if it impacts the car in anyway. Any suggestions would be great
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1447270454
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1447270454
I did find a loose connector, it looks like the tab that snaps it in is broken. I seems to connect fine but I don't know what it does or if it impacts the car in anyway. Any suggestions would be great
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...1&d=1447270454
#11
The following users liked this post:
drossy007 (11-11-2015)
#12
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks, do you know what the connector in the second picture does? I have just put everything back together and now the car runs really rough and the check engine light is still on.
#13
#14
#16
#17
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,431
Likes: 0
Received 3,915 Likes
on
3,217 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
drossy, both of those codes deal with the fuel rail. P0182 is a low fuel rail temp, P0191 is a low fuel rail pressure. the low fuel pressure can be simply that the fuel rail got unplugged. This sensor is on the passenger side as I recall. The fuel rail temp sensor is probably in the same area. You can also chase the wiring to where the two sensors join wiring wise and then follow that towards the battery/brake booster. You may find that a connector got unplugged and that will fix your issue.
#18
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
drossy, both of those codes deal with the fuel rail. P0182 is a low fuel rail temp, P0191 is a low fuel rail pressure. the low fuel pressure can be simply that the fuel rail got unplugged. This sensor is on the passenger side as I recall. The fuel rail temp sensor is probably in the same area. You can also chase the wiring to where the two sensors join wiring wise and then follow that towards the battery/brake booster. You may find that a connector got unplugged and that will fix your issue.
Thanks again
#19
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,431
Likes: 0
Received 3,915 Likes
on
3,217 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
drossy, I don't have any pictures. But, if you remove the plastic over the top of the engine, you should see the bright silver tubes under the intake that are connected to the fuel injectors. If you look over towards the passenger tire (US car) on the fuel rail, you will see where the fuel rail comes in. You will see some electrical connectors on this rail. One will be the fuel temp sensor, the other will be the fuel pressure sensor (the pressure one may have a vacuum line running to it too, don't recall off the top of my head).
#20