misfires on cold start
#21
02-05-2009, 08:09 PM
Keith,
thanks for the feed... as for the fuel filters, i dont know when was the last time it was replaced... my car has 125K miles on it... as for gas line conditioner I havent done that yet since i dont know which one works best...
any recommendations about gas line conditioners?
if my tank has water.. how do I get rid of it?
thanks for the feed... as for the fuel filters, i dont know when was the last time it was replaced... my car has 125K miles on it... as for gas line conditioner I havent done that yet since i dont know which one works best...
any recommendations about gas line conditioners?
if my tank has water.. how do I get rid of it?
#22
02-06-2009, 02:17 AM
Keith,
thanks for the feed... as for the fuel filters, i dont know when was the last time it was replaced... my car has 125K miles on it... as for gas line conditioner I havent done that yet since i dont know which one works best...
any recommendations about gas line conditioners?
if my tank has water.. how do I get rid of it?
thanks for the feed... as for the fuel filters, i dont know when was the last time it was replaced... my car has 125K miles on it... as for gas line conditioner I havent done that yet since i dont know which one works best...
any recommendations about gas line conditioners?
if my tank has water.. how do I get rid of it?
#23
02-07-2009, 09:46 PM
changed fuel filters today, loaded BG44K and ran the entire tank in one day ( i drove 400 miles today total... I went to thermo's place since we worked on some of my issues.. thanks again Thermo!)
I wont be able to observe the misfires on cold start since it warmed up here at maryland like around 60C... I just hope that the fuel injectors were all cleaned up and free flow of fuel due to new filter... If I do experience the misfire again then I will move on changing or resealing the intake manifold gasket seal... if that dont fix it then I give up and might as well should return the Jag ( I hope i dont have to... im so attached to it now..)
I wont be able to observe the misfires on cold start since it warmed up here at maryland like around 60C... I just hope that the fuel injectors were all cleaned up and free flow of fuel due to new filter... If I do experience the misfire again then I will move on changing or resealing the intake manifold gasket seal... if that dont fix it then I give up and might as well should return the Jag ( I hope i dont have to... im so attached to it now..)
#24
12-22-2012, 06:52 PM
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The light could go away when the misfire stops, depends how bad it is. The IMT seals are easy to check. They seal the IMT valves to the intake. They are the 2 big plastic looking things with a single 2 wire electrical connector on each. One is on the lower set of intake manifold runners and 1 is on the upper set. They are on the passenger side just forward of the firewall and held to the manifold with 2, 8mm bolts. Just start the engine cold and listen for sucking noise near the valves. You can run your hand around the valves and see if the noise changes, be sure to reach underneath the upper 1, you can't really reach under the lower it is blocked by the valve cover on the rear head. If the sound changes when you put your hand around the valve to manifold line the o-ring is leaking. The upper is easy to change. Remove 2 8mm bolts and pull the valve out. If it's a leaker it should practically fall out when you take the bbolts out. The lower is a little more difficult. The valve wont come out due to the valve cover interference but you can slip the o-ring around the outside if you're careful not to tear it. The o-rings are about $4 each at the dealer
True- the lower IMT actuator is prevented from being fully removed by the sensor hump that's cast into the valve cover gasket. I've replaced mine but found not possible to replace the lower gasket by slipping it around the outside. The actuator housing is taller than the gasket- thus preventing "stretching it over..."
But hope is not lost- I only needed to loosen the 6 intake manifold mounting bolts enough to permit it being raised about 1/4 inch so that the IMT actuator can clear the valve cover hump.
Prior to loosening the manifold bolts, i only removed the wiring harness fixing bolt along the back side of the manifold near the firewall. The harness is attached in two places along the manifold, but freeing it from the left-most side allowed plenty of freedom.
I had planned on removing the entire manifold, but didn't need to. Working my way to the 6 manifold bolts, I'd removed the air filter housing top/MAF sensor housing in addition to the plastic engine fascia kept by 3 1/2 turn fasteners.
This was a very simple task that didn't take much longer than replacing the air filter... which also got replaced during the job.
Thanks again for all the tips & expertise I've benefited from over the years.
#25
12-22-2012, 06:54 PM
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The light could go away when the misfire stops, depends how bad it is. The IMT seals are easy to check. They seal the IMT valves to the intake. They are the 2 big plastic looking things with a single 2 wire electrical connector on each. One is on the lower set of intake manifold runners and 1 is on the upper set. They are on the passenger side just forward of the firewall and held to the manifold with 2, 8mm bolts. Just start the engine cold and listen for sucking noise near the valves. You can run your hand around the valves and see if the noise changes, be sure to reach underneath the upper 1, you can't really reach under the lower it is blocked by the valve cover on the rear head. If the sound changes when you put your hand around the valve to manifold line the o-ring is leaking. The upper is easy to change. Remove 2 8mm bolts and pull the valve out. If it's a leaker it should practically fall out when you take the bbolts out. The lower is a little more difficult. The valve wont come out due to the valve cover interference but you can slip the o-ring around the outside if you're careful not to tear it. The o-rings are about $4 each at the dealer
True- the lower IMT actuator is prevented from being fully removed by the sensor hump that's cast into the valve cover. I've replaced mine but found not possible to replace the lower gasket by slipping it around the outside. The actuator housing is taller than the gasket- thus preventing "stretching it over..."
But hope is not lost- I only needed to loosen the 6 intake manifold mounting bolts enough to permit it being raised about 1/4 inch so that the IMT actuator can clear the valve cover hump.
Prior to loosening the manifold bolts, i only removed the wiring harness fixing bolt along the back side of the manifold near the firewall. The harness is attached in two places along the manifold, but freeing it from the left-most side allowed plenty of freedom.
I had planned on removing the entire manifold, but didn't need to. Working my way to the 6 manifold bolts, I'd removed the air filter housing top/MAF sensor housing in addition to the plastic engine fascia kept by 3 1/2 turn fasteners.
This was a very simple task that didn't take much longer than replacing the air filter... which also got replaced during the job.
Thanks again for all the tips & expertise I've benefited from over the years.
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