Hey guys, I've gotten a new problem with my 2002 X-Type 3.0.

I keep getting "CRUISE NOT AVAILABLE" and it reduces my maximum engine speed to 3000 rpm's. I've scanned it for codes and got these. Sometimes in combination and sometimes with some missing, but I'm going to list all of them:

P1000 - neglectable
P0300 - Random misfire
P0301 - cylinder 1 misfire
P0302 - cylinder 2 misfire
P0303 - cylinder 3 misfire
P0305 - cylinder 5 misfire
P1313 - bank 1 misfire rate catalyst damage
P1314 - bank 2 misfire rate catalyst damage
P1316 - misfire excess emission

Now a mechanic buddy at first told me out was a catalytic converter problem, but now I'm starting to believe it's on the fuel system end because these codes and problems don't arise when I have a low tank (riding on E).

So my question for you guys is what do I do next to isolate the problem?

I've checked the data and the freeze data, and they're all saying around around 54-61 (absolute lowest and highest) psi for the fuel pressure. (39 when car is off).


Different problem too... My radiator fans stopped working and I've checked the fuse and relay. One fan was stuck, but I loosened it up so it now spins freely. Do I need to buy a whole new assembly our can I just buy new motors?

Thanks for your time.

 

Are you actually getting misfires or just the codes?

 

Not quite sure. I don't have an ear for this at all. The engine is running a little rough. Rougher than it did before the problem at least.

This problem did arise after a flash flood here. I had to drive to work through some big puddles. I even had to replace the starter after said storm.

 

outcast, based on what you are describing, it sounds like your fuel pressure regulator is toast. You should be seeing about 50 psi on the fuel rail (the difference between the pressure of the fuel and the vacuum of your intake). Being up at 51-63 psi, that is a little high which is going to cause too much fuel to be placed in the cylinder, leading to the misfire issue (O2 sensor is seeing unburnt fuel in the exhaust). After that, I would be looking for a vacuum leak. That can cause what you are seeing too. Your likely culprits are your brake booster line, PCV valve line, and the IMT valves. The likely one is the PCV valve line with a split on the underside of the hose.

As for your fans, odds are, you fried the control module, so, you are going to need a new control module and a new fan assembly. Good new is, the fan assemblies can be had for cheap. The problem is finding a fan controller that works. Keep in mind that in 2004 they went to a new design controller. So, you can not plug a 2004+ controller into your car unless you get the conversion cable too. So, keep that in mind as you are shopping for new parts for the car.

 

Thanks Thermo,

But I've smoke tested the car before, and there's no vacuum leaks. But I found that cylinder 2 is the culprit, as the other ones disappeared with time. So today I took out all the ignition coils and spark plugs. I found that cylinder 2's ignition coil was downright bad, misshapen and what not. But I did not have a spare on hand, so I swapped #2 with #4 and drove it down to AutoZone to get a new one. I have a new one now, but no light. On the drive, I checked my codes and found that now only #4 is going off, so it's gotta be the ignition coil for now.

As for the fans, I disconnected the plugs to the fans and took a multimeter to them and turned on my A/C and I had 12V sitting on each connector, so the fans are fried.

 

UPDATE:

I installed the new ignition coil for cylinder 4 (was cylinder 2) and it worked like a charm. Now the engine sounds great when starting up and for an easy ride. But I wanted to test if it would still misfire with some stress on the engine.

I did thusly, and it is still misfiring, just not as much, and with a lot more load. Guess which cylinder(s)? You guessed it 1, 3, and 5. I'm looking into the pressure regulator, but I have no idea where it is, and if it even exists?

Anyways, I'm going to swap ignition coils for bank 1 to/from bank 2, and see if the problem persists on 1, 3, and 5, or see if they swap to 2, 4, and 6.

If that doesn't work I'm going to replace the spark plugs, and then if not that, I'll look into replacing the head gasket for bank 1.

Just for safety's sake, I'm going to get the car smoke tested again.

Again, Thermo, thanks for the help!

 

outcast, if it is only on 1/3/5, then you most likely have an IMT valve o-ring that is going or your brake booster line is cracked and leaking. Granted, it can also be a fuel rail issue or a coil wiring issue. If you want more information on those two other things, let me know.

 

The IMT Valve O-Rings just got replaced, so they're known good. So yes, I'd like more information if it's a fuel rail and coil wiring.

 

Outcast, before replacing a head gasket, do a compression check of the cylinders in question. The odds of a bad head gaskets causing all 3 to act up is pretty low. 1 cylinder, sure, 2, possible, but all 3, not very. If you have low compression on all 3 cylinders, add a little bit of machine oil to the tops of the pistons and then retest. If the compression comes up, then you have bad rings, not a head gasket.

As for testing the coil wiring, where they are, about the only thing that you can do is to do a hand over hand inspection of the wire bundle. If you are going to see a problem it will be in the wiring bundle where it first comes up on the engine (driver's side as I recall). You might be able to see something in the opening by the throttle body, but you will have to work on getting your hands down in that area.

As for testing the fuel rail, thinking about that, there is only the one shrader valve. So, really, your best bet would be removing the fuel injectors and doing a visual of them to so if you can spot any clogging of the injector. Before you do that, I would try running a can of fuel injector cleaner through the car to see if that helps any. From there, I know guys have applied pressure to the injectors and sprayed them outside of the car, just not sure how they did it. From there, you can look at the spray and figure out which injector(s) are the problem. The injector should make a real fine, wide mist pattern.

 

My Fans stopped working also and my ac lights stayed on one day for like 20 mins when car was shut off. Next day car would not start. Bad Baterry. Had original BAT for 10 years.

On codes. I have been dealing with them for a year. I changed a ton of stuff. MAF Sensor, brake booster, imt rings and more. After taking a gamble my mech changed intake gaskets. They looked good but when we pulled them out they where awful on the other side. Changed them car runs fine. Also a coil had a spring loose on inside.