Hi All

I hop someone can she d some light and advise me. I have noticed that my X Type has began to miss especially lower revs and slight incline. becoming progressively more frequent. When I change the gear down it's fine again. I am by no means straining the gears though.
regards
Carfan

 

Carfan, start with the big 3. So, check your PCV hose, the 2 IMT o-rings, and finally the brake booster line (especially the football shaped check valve in the center of the line). These are responsible for probably 99% of the vacuum leaks like you are seeing. From there, you will need to do some deeper looking. The odds from there go more towards the upper and lower intake gaskets. Some starter fluid will help you prove that they are good or bad.

If you need more specifics, just write back and you will get the info that you need to know.

 

Hi
Thanks Thermo. Pretty clueless as to where these are located. Not mechanically inclined.
Could you please send a diagram as to where I should be looking.
Don't want to take it to the shop and pay an arm and a leg, before I know it's something straight forward to check first.
Appreciate the assistance.
Kind regards

 

Car Fan, if you do some looking here using the search feature, there are some pics. But, I will explain it to you.

PCV hose: Remove the cover off of the top of the engine. As you look down at the engine, you will see where the intake starts at the filter (says "Jaguar V6" on the top). and follow that around to the right some, you will see where it transitions to a silver metal tube (this metal tube is your throttle body). If you look to the left (as I recall) of the throttle body, you will see a black rubber tube. This is your PCV hose. The hose is about 8 inches long and is pressed on at both ends. Pull/push each end to free it from the engine. Flip it over and check for a crack in the hose. Of note, you wlll see 2 different designs of hoses here. The older style is a smooth hose. if you have this, you want to buy a new PCV hose (like $15 at your local dealership and will be the new style). The smooth hose is known for splitting on the under side. The newer hose is ribbed and will have a definite texture to it. Install is simply pushing the tube back on like you pulled it off.

IMT valves: If you open the bonnet and remove the cover again, walk to the left and stand by that front tire. If you look at the engine, you will see 2 black caps near the top of the engine pointing at you. They are each about 4" (10cm) in diameter and held in place by 2 screws. If you remove those 2 screws and pull the black cover off (more on this in just a second). you will find an o-ring in there. You can disconnect the electrical connector and pull the valve out and replace the o-ring. It should have a green o-ring in there. If you have a black one, then it needs to be replaced. Now, there is a trick to the lower black cover. You will note that you can't pull it all the way out. if you find that you have an o-ring that needs to be replaced there, you can simply stretch the o-ring enough to get it up and over the cover. Try not to stretch it any more than you have to, but it will stretch to go over. If you don't want to remove the screws to check the o-rings, then what you can do is get yourself a can of starting fluid and with the engine running, squirt a little bit of starter fluid on each of the surfaces where the black cover meets the silver (metal) intake. If the engine RPMs pick up a little bit, then this will confirm that you have a leak there and the o-rings definitely need to be replaced.

Brake booster hose: If you stand in front of the car with the hood/bonnet open, ensure the plastic cover is removed. If you lean forward, you are going to naturally place your hands on the engine. Your right hand will most likely land on a small plastic tube sticking out the top of the intake. This tube will run to the right to a large, black bulb mounted to the firewall (just under the windshield). This black tube is the one in question. If you look in the middle of it, there will be a small bulge. This is a check valve. If you rub this with your thumb and you can get some of the plastic to rub off, it needs to be replaced. Replacing this is not difficult, but you need to know a trick. The right side of the tube (attached to the brake booster) simply presses in and with a little twisting, it pops right out. The end that goes into the intake is the tricky end. if you look, the tube has a 90 degree bend/elbow on the end of it with a black plastic ring on it. What you want to do is push the elbow down and then using your other hand, hold the black ring down. While holding the ring down, lift straight up on the elbow. It should pull right out. Installing simply requires you to push straight down till it won't go any more. This is another one of those things that you can have the engine running and spray a little bit of starter fluid on the intake joint and on the bulge in the center of the tube. If the engine RPMs pick up, then you have a leak at that point.

 

Thank you Thermo.
Going to give it a try. Appreciate your input. I realize the the breather hose is a bit worn and does not connect as it should. So i'll first replace this with an OEM one and see it the issues still persists

Thank you once more.
Best Regards.

 

Hi all
I hope you Guys are all well during these strange times.
Just some feedback WRT my problem with my Jag. New coil pack and a new set of plugs sorted the problem. Runs like a beaut. Anyone has any ideas on how to improve performance on these vehicles though. No expensive mods and nothing that will end up messing the engine up.

Regards to all

 

Car Fan, how much power are you wanting to add? Unforutnately, there isn't much out there without going custom and that goes against your first rule of it costing a lot of money. The best bang for the buck that I can say would be to talk with a local exhaust shop and see what they would charge you to upgrade the exhaust to say a true dual 2.26" setup with a cross-over pipe as far back as possible in the car and run dual 50 series mufflers. Having the long pipes before the cross-over (get a 45 degree crossover, if not a 60, but with a 60, the space may be limiting) will maximize your low end torque which will make the car feel faster as you will have more get up and go at low RPMs The 50 series mufflers will help with the higher RPM power without driving the exhaust note so loud that you can't drive the car. It should leave the car with a slightly louder growl at idle and not obnoxious if you rev it. Now, this will probably set you back around $700-800, if not possibly more for what I would anticipate being a 15 hp gain. I have done 2 of the Mina muffler upgrades (pretty much new mufflers and tips, that is it). A little deeper tone, a bit more volume, but also not a lot of gain (5ish hp).

Some members have created their own intake to help the air go into the engine. That is a fairly cheap project, but will also not gain a lot of power. Granted, with the exhaust too, it may be a worthwhile addition. This car is built with most of the easy power gains already done and the intake/motor/exhaust have been matched to not have any one component to be a limiting item. So, you will have to upgrade all 3 for any decent gains.

 

Thank you for the advice. Will chat with the exhaust guys.

Take care