modified Xtypes only
#41
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#42
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yeah, that why i havn't tocuhed it, but, let say we don't touch the engine, a way to decrease time, and increase umm would be, a carbon fiber trunk (boot only), carbon fiber hood, ( but what about The leaPER), CARBON FIBRER ROOF, BUT WHAT ABOUT HE SUNROOF. aND BETTER SHOCK AND SUSPENSION, according the top gear, where they had to make a station wagon think, as fast as a evoltuion 4 or 10, can't remebr, the the suspension, and weight reduction took off 5 seconds, whicj is alot. Tampering witht he engine isn't allwasy the best lol, i mean look at he lotus elise, its got 230hp ( can't remerb) and its faster then crovets and other big v8,10, 12's lol
#43
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Disco, to get any sort of dramatic time difference in even the 1/4 mile drag, you need to be putting the car on a serious diet. Sure, a carbon fiber hood, trunk, roof, and lots of aluminum parts added to the suspension would shave probably about 300 pounds. But on a 3500 pound vehicle, that is a start. But not the cure all.
For a 5 second gain (more than like a 0.5 second gain), you are talking some serious weight reduction on a heavy vehicle. Neither of which are going to happen to our X's. I can see gaining say 0.5 seconds in the 0-60 mph (0-100 KM) times due to switching over to lighter materials, but much more and you are talking power gains all the way.
As for quick-low power cars, yes, they are possible. But look at what they are made of. Most are probably almost 100% carbon fiber, full aluminum motor, what can't be made in carbon fiber is aluminum (or titanium). In short, use of exotic materials is a must. That kind of effort is not realistic on our cars.
I see it this way, you want a fast car, get something other than an X-Type. If you are looking to keep the X-Type, then I would recommend doing some looking around and seeing if you can possibly slide the motor from out of say a Subaru WRX into the X-Type and see what that gets you. That would let you keep the AWD and give you something that squeezing 600+ hp out of is not out of the question. Gotta love the Boxer engines.
For a 5 second gain (more than like a 0.5 second gain), you are talking some serious weight reduction on a heavy vehicle. Neither of which are going to happen to our X's. I can see gaining say 0.5 seconds in the 0-60 mph (0-100 KM) times due to switching over to lighter materials, but much more and you are talking power gains all the way.
As for quick-low power cars, yes, they are possible. But look at what they are made of. Most are probably almost 100% carbon fiber, full aluminum motor, what can't be made in carbon fiber is aluminum (or titanium). In short, use of exotic materials is a must. That kind of effort is not realistic on our cars.
I see it this way, you want a fast car, get something other than an X-Type. If you are looking to keep the X-Type, then I would recommend doing some looking around and seeing if you can possibly slide the motor from out of say a Subaru WRX into the X-Type and see what that gets you. That would let you keep the AWD and give you something that squeezing 600+ hp out of is not out of the question. Gotta love the Boxer engines.
#45
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Disco, power is power. Whether it comes from a 2 cylinder motor or a V12, a horsepower is a horsepower. The question is the associated torque. The V12 will be able to generate more useful torque at a lower RPM than a little 2 cylinder. Besides, I seem to remember that the I4 from the Subaru is almost the same displacement as our 3.0L V6's. So, you are not really loosing anything when it comes to engine size. But you are gaining the survivability of a motor that can take major power improvements and be able to apply them efficiently.
#47
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Disco, cheapest/simplest thing would be to save your money and trade in your 2.5 get a 3.0 liter version. If you find a 3.0 liter manual you shave another .5 seconds off the 0-60 right there. The 3.0 manual is 6.6 0-60, which while certainly not blistering fast, is pretty sporting. I have to admit though what an X would be like if it had the drivetrain from an Audi S4.
#48
#49
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Check out my cardomain:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1701401
Here's my list of mods:
Armano Vega Wheels - 19x8, 5-108, +40mm offset & hubcentric rings, purchased from California Wheels - San Jose, California.
General Exclaim UHP Tires - 215/35/ZR19, purchased from California Wheels - San Jose, California.
JaguarXP Valve Stem Covers
PERFORMANCE:
K&N Drop-in Air Filter
EXTERIOR:
JaguarXP Upper Mesh Grille and Lower Mesh Grille
JaguarXP Clear Side Markers
Jagbits.com AWD Emblem
LIGHTING & ACCESSORIES:
Umnitza 8000K HID Kit - Main Beam
Xentec 8000K HID Kit - Fog Lights
Luminics Pure Blue H1 Hi- Beam
V-Leds Super White 194 LED Parking Light Bulbs
V-Leds Amber 194 LED Sidemarker Bulbs
V-Leds Amber 7507 & 3157 LED Turn Signal Bulbs
V-Leds 1157 Super White LED Reverse Bulbs
V-Leds Red 1156 LED Stop & Tail Light Bulbs
JAGS-JAGS-JAGS Jaguar R Performance Shift Knob
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1701401
Here's my list of mods:
Armano Vega Wheels - 19x8, 5-108, +40mm offset & hubcentric rings, purchased from California Wheels - San Jose, California.
General Exclaim UHP Tires - 215/35/ZR19, purchased from California Wheels - San Jose, California.
JaguarXP Valve Stem Covers
PERFORMANCE:
K&N Drop-in Air Filter
EXTERIOR:
JaguarXP Upper Mesh Grille and Lower Mesh Grille
JaguarXP Clear Side Markers
Jagbits.com AWD Emblem
LIGHTING & ACCESSORIES:
Umnitza 8000K HID Kit - Main Beam
Xentec 8000K HID Kit - Fog Lights
Luminics Pure Blue H1 Hi- Beam
V-Leds Super White 194 LED Parking Light Bulbs
V-Leds Amber 194 LED Sidemarker Bulbs
V-Leds Amber 7507 & 3157 LED Turn Signal Bulbs
V-Leds 1157 Super White LED Reverse Bulbs
V-Leds Red 1156 LED Stop & Tail Light Bulbs
JAGS-JAGS-JAGS Jaguar R Performance Shift Knob
#50
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Queens, the only "problem" with the TC mod is that you need to file off the flats of the adapter some. A simple file is all that you really need. If you have a dremel tool or some sort of bench grinder, all the better. I used the flats on the drain valve to get the adapter fully installed. Should I ever need to remove the adapter, there is more than enough to get a set of say channel locks up there to get it loosened and get it backed out. If you need any more info on this, let me know. $10 and you can have yourself one of those too.
thanks for the rundown, unfortunately I am not a car DIY in terms of mechanics, but maybe I will get one of my buddies to try this because it sounds like a lifesaver.
#51
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queen, if you can turn a wrench, you can change the oil in the transfer case. The hardest part of it all is grinding off the flats. If that is what is slowing you down, let me know. For around $15 ($10 for parts, $5 for S&H), I will assemble the valve for you and grind the flats down so all you have to do is pull out the factory drain plug and then install the new valve. The rest is simply running a hose down through the engine bay and sliding it on the end of the valve. Then all you have to do is get the car up high enough to slide under the vehicle.
#52
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Disco, if you have access to a metal shop, you can make whatever you want. I have contemplated making some Damascus steel pedals along with some damascus kicker plates. But, the damascus steel isn't something that is easy to come by, let alone a very expensive thing to get. Check out what damascus steel looks like and see what you think. Then imagine it as your pedals. A local shop may be able to make something like that for you. Don't know what they would charge. But would be one of a kind.
#55
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lol, i meant how to take them off and put them back on i cant find the bolts, and that steel, o man, do we have some metal smiths in town, actaully il ask one of my teachers are school, lol if i ew aboutthis a coiple of month ago i would have tried to make it in chemistry, but the fab teachers are good freinds with some buddies. I was thiking more like the arden oes, or somethign from candain tire or walll mart, how would i install them
![](http://www.fischercustomknives.com/images/1_rs1_open.jpg)
Last edited by Disco stu55; 09-03-2009 at 09:13 PM.
#57
#58
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Disco, making Damascus steel isn't a matter of a chemistry set, it is taking and layering different kinds of steel, heating them up to the point just before becoming warm taffy and then pressure welding the metal together. From there, you pound it out fairly flat, cut the metal into shorter lengths, pressure weld those pieces one on top of the other. From there, you can start shaping the metal to get what you are after. If I can get some time out at my father-in-laws, he has all the stuff to do this sort of project. You need a forge capable of like 2000F and either a 25 ton press or a BFH and a large anvil with a very strong arm. That is just to make the steel. Then you need a milling machine to shape the steel. Oh, but the ideas.