I will apologize in advance for my long message, but I just joined the forum today and have a lot to share. I have been reading the forum for months now and have learned some great things! I wanted to join because I have a problem that I have not seen posted yet - close, but not exactly the same issue.
Let me start by saying I purchased a 2004 X Type 3.0L base model about a year 1.5 years ago. It had 36,000 miles on it and the interior was in beautiful shape. There were a couple of spots on the body and I fixed them and touched up with spray paint - it turned out beautifully (I will post a picture in the coming days). The car was in a garage for over 8 years, so over the years mice had done a little damage. The previous owner went through the car and repaired chewed wires and replaced brakes, tires, rims and battery before handing it over. Since owning I have replaced an O2 sensor, rear window regulator, brake line and oil pan gasket(replaced 6 months ago and is leaking again!!).
I need help with a current issue I am having that started a few weeks ago. I was driving down a suburban street and all of the sudden I went into limp mode, lost my speedometer, the abs light, brake light, engine light and gear light. I took it to the Jaguar dealer. They had the car all day and when I went to pick up the only thing they could tell me was that the F13 fuse (ABS fuse) blew and they replaced it ($180 for that diagnosis). They asked me how much I wanted to spend because the diagnosis could be difficult. They also stated that I should take the car to a dealer 1.5 hours away because they have better diagnostic equipment. They also suggested I find a shop that specializes in electrical issues. I gave up calling places after the 15th shop - once they hear "Jaguar" they say no!
Sometimes the fuses blow after a 20 minute ride, sometimes they last 2 days. I usually get a P1637 code. Once I replace the fuse the lights disappear. Could the fuse be blowing due to a bad ABS module? I was thinking of going to junkyard and getting a used one. I also looked at the wiring diagram and see that there is a gray/white wire that goes from the fuse box to module. Seem like cutting this wire and splicing a new one might be something to try as well (of course I can't see it coming out of the fuse box).
I will also say that I am not big into car repairs, but I have lots of handy co-workers and could get help if someone has suggestions of things to try.

Thanks in advance to all of the Jag owners out there!

 

Jimmy, first off, welcome to the Forums and as you have found, lots of good information here. I am sure you are familiar with those that make this place what it is. Please stop by the New Member section and give a post there to help get yourself introduced to all the members here. I am sure you have seen how we pride ourselves in being friendly.

As for your issue. I think we can solve this fairly easily. Looking, you have a later generation X-Type (made after March 2004). With this being said, your problem most likely can only be but in 1 of 2 places. What I am wanting/needing you to do is to get your hands on a multimeter capable of measuring up to 10 amps. If you do not know how to use a multimeter, do not worry, I can talk you through all of it. What I am going to need you to do is to measure up to 10 amps by removing fuse F13, starting the car, then inserting the probes of the multimeter where the 2 posts of the fuse go. You should get a reading on the multimeter of something less than 4 amps. If you are up around 4.9 to 5.1, then we know the ABS module is bad. If you are down around 4 amps or less, then odds are you are looking at the power wire between the fuse box and the ABS module as being damaged and it is periodically touching something metal, leading to the fuse blowing. Unfortunately, this is going to require hand over handing the wiring between the engine bay fuse box and the ABS module. This is where you need to change your thought process here and think like a mouse. You are going to go after what is the easiest to access. So, the underside of the fuse box is going to be a good spot to look, follow that cable bundle until it reaches a hard spot, then go to the ABS module and follow the wiring there until it gets to a hard spot. Mice tend to go after the easy food first. You are looking for wiring that is damaged. This will be evident by insulation that is not smooth. Odds are, you are going to see the black plastic protective sheath chewed up. Just because you find one wire that is bad, keep looking. It is very possible that you have a few wires that are damaged and what is happening is when say the vacuum pump kicks on, this is blowing the F13 fuse because it is a smaller fuse.

If you do find damaged wiring, let me know and I will give you a few things to ponder on ways to repair the wiring.

 

Thanks for the quick response, Thermo!

I pulled the 5 am F13 fuse and used my multi meter to measure the amperage and got a reading of 0.15 amps. Does that seem right?
I hate to say it, but I was hoping the ABS module was bad because I think finding the wire with short will be an absolute nightmare!

 

Jimmy, no, that does not surprise me at all. As you have figured out, you are going to be spending some time hand over handing the wiring. It won't be that bad. As I recall, the harness runs from the ABS unit by the front passenger tire and runs on the underside of the lip for the radiator, over to the fuse box. So, you have say 8 feet of cabling to look at. But, like I said, 4 feet of it you don't really need to worry about unless you had a really hungry mouse. You may be able to use your multimeter to connect across the fuse and then as you watch the multimeter, move the wiring around. When you see the multimeter jump, you know you are close to where the problem is. Just be careful as you may blow the fuse in the multimeter. This is where a special set of leads with a 5 amp fuse holder in the line may be advantageous.

 

Yeah, I was looking at the wire routing on my lunch break with a co-worker. The wires run over the passenger tire to the firewall, along the firewall thru a metal bracket, which is right behind speedometer (which is a possible trouble spot - I will remove bracket to inspect) and into fuse box (I will remove that as well to inspect underneath). My friend has a test light, so we plan on removing the fuse, inserting the probe, running a wire to the ABS plug, after we find the correct pin, and wiggling wires to see if we can find the issue.

Appreciate your help and will update you on what I find!!

 

Thermo....wanted to update you on my blown fuse issue. I removed the fuse box and unplugged all of the plugs. I inspected all of the wires and everything looked good. I really took my time and followed the wires back to the abs plug, but couldn't find anything. All of the wires were well insulated. Now I am understanding why I can't find a mechanic to take this issue on. I still plan on doing a "wiggle" test with a test light by the end of the week. The fuse has not blown since last Saturday. This is the longest I have gone without blowing it.

Frustrating!! Is it a possibility that the wire could have actually split/broken inside the insulation?

 

Jimmy, if the wire split inside the insulation, it would be making and breaking the circuit. So, you would have a small current surge as you apply and remove power. So, if you are normally pulling the 0.15 amps, worst case, you would be getting a 1 amp surge. well under the 5 amp rating of the circuit. You definitely have something touching ground. If you are going to do a wiggle test, I would start with beating on the ABS module, then working your way back towards the fuse box. If you are going to have an issue, odds are, it is going to be in the ABS module. Also, do not rule out the fact that the fuse box is good. Give it a good thump or two too. Just when you say "it can't be that", guess what.

 

Thermo is right, think like a winter mouse. The same issue was resolved by a pro with the 2002 jag I drive.

 

Yes, his advice has helped a lot thus far! I pulled the fuse box and checked all of the wires and they were fine. I followed all of the wires from the abs module to the fuse box and don't see any chewed up wires. I've yanked on wires, beat on the fuse box and abs module to see if I could get my light tester to flicker with no luck. I drove for 1 week without blowing it (normally blows in 30 minutes) and figured I must've moved something out of place which extended my time without blowing. Unfortunately, it blew again. I don't drive it every day, so I am going to live with it for now. My next step would be to replace (splice in) the green/white wire that goes from fuse box to abs module and see if that works?

I wish I had access to your pro! I can't find anyone to look at it in the Buffalo area

 

Jimmy, based on what you are seeing, then odds are, your problem is in 1 of 2 spots. The easiest way that I can see differentiating between the two is to simply unplug the ABS module and go for a drive for awhile. I am sure this is going to throw up some codes and may even take out your speedo. So, take it easy. But, after pulling the plug on the ABS module, put a good 5 amp fuse in and go for say a 60 minute drive (something that would normally have blown the fuse in that time). See if the fuse is blown. If it is blown, then you have confirmed it is in the wiring harness. Running a new wire is going to be your best bet. If it doesn't blow, then odds are the problem is internal to the ABS module. this is where getting a new ABS module will be your best bet. Granted, as you undo the plug to the ABS module, I would be looking at pin 23 on the plug. It is possible that the problem lies inside the plug itself. Also look at the pins in the ABS module for any signs of black marks. See what you see and go from there.

 

Thanks for the input, Thermo! I actually did that a few weeks ago. I unplugged the module, put in a new fuse and drove around for about 90 minutes. I stopped every 20 minutes and checked the fuse. At the end of my 90 minute ride the fuse was still good. I plugged the module back in and was able to drive for approx 4 days without blowing a fuse. I thought I might have reset something, but I started blowing them regularly again. The same thing happened last week when I was checking /wiggling wires, beating the fuse box and abs module. I was able to drive a week without blowing a fuse. Last night I drove it a bit and parked it without blowing a fuse.When I got in it this morning the fuse was blown. Could it be heating up and blowing after the car has been turned off?
I did entertain the thought of buying a used ABS module online that are "guaranteed" good, but most of the are off of cars with over 100k miles and are $250. Mine only has 40k. I did test the amperage of the abs module like you suggested and it measured 0.15 amps. You still think the ABS might be bad?

I have inspected the plug and everything looks ok - no signs of heat. Can you buy replacement plugs if it was bad? How would I differentiate if it is a bad ABS module or bad plug?

I am wondering if I should try splicing in a new wire first? Cheapest and easiest thing to do. If that doesn't work I would buy a used module. Does that sound feasible or will I be creating a potential issue with a spliced wire?

It is very frustrating because sometimes I blow 4 fuses in a day and then I go 5 days without bowing 1!

Sorry for the long post - just want to get to the bottom of this!!

 

Jimmy, this is where you kinda need to just pick a path and go down it as far as it will take you. Is putting in a new wire a bad idea, by no means. I would say you can also drive around for say a week and see if you blow the fuse. Do you want an answer sooner than later? You have a few options, pick a path and go with it.

As for knowing whether it is a plug or a module, the short answer to that is if you unplug the module and you still blow a fuse, then you are looking at the harness, which would include the plug. If you don't blow a fuse, then you are looking at the module. Having a bad plug that only causes an intermittent ground once in a blue moon would be a new one to me. Can't say that I have ever seen that happen. Can it, sure. But, the odds of that are pretty small.

 

I don't think my last try to post worked. Here is aother try:

This car is a 2006 XK8, and although there seems to be a major change in the communication networks during this model year, the car appears to follow the drawings for the 2003 series. The problem seems to be a CAN bus issue, with codes P1637 and P1643. I have found that although the paralleled termination resistors measure 60 Ohms, the resistance to either ground or B+ from CAN+ or CAN- are all about 5k Ohms at the Data Link Connector (FC53).

I have traced this to the DSCCM by isolating parts of the bus until, upon removing the connector at the the DSCCM, with the ECM and others in place, the CAN to ground or B+ measurements go high.

In particular, I split the bus by disconnecting the Linear Switch Module, so I can look at either the DSCCM/ECM side or the Major Instrument Cluster side, right there at the IC connector. With all the other modules connected, I looked at pins on the LS connector (FC100):

CAN- at pin 2, CAN+ at pin 3, on DSCCM side;

CAN- at pin 7, CAN+ at pin 8, on IC side;

Pin 11 is GND.

Pins 2 to 3 approx 120 k Ohms (confirms that a termination resistor is in the DSCCM side.)

Pin 2 to Pin 11 (GND) approx 5k Ohms

Pin 3 to Pin 11 (GND) approx 5k Ohms

Now with the other modules still connected, I disconnected the DSCCM, and again looked at pins on the LS connector:

Pins 2 to 3 are open (confirms that the termination is within the DSCCM itself.)

Pin 2 to Pin 11 (GND) approx 120k Ohms

Pin 3 to Pin 11 (GND) approx 120k Ohms

This set of measurements indicate that the 5k Ohms is within the DSCCM.

These measurements suggest that at least one of the output transistors in the CAN driver for the DSCCM has failed in a low resistance mode.

I am considering either sending the module out for repair or fixing it myself. For me to fix the module, I need to know the part number, or at least the pin-out for the CAN transceiver chip. In the pictures I have seen ov the opened module, the part number for the transceiver is not visible.

My questions are:

Will I see the part number if I open the DSCCM module?

Does anyone know what transceiver is used?

Am I full of beans with this study?

 

DSY, the part number for the DSCCM should be written on the outside of the module. If you look, you should see something like "1X43-12345-AB". In the case I used, 1X43 refers to a first gen X-Type, in your case, you should see "1W8F". The last 2 letters (AB in the example) is the version of software that is on the module unless it has been updated since the car was built. So, this leaves the middle part (ie, 12345). This may also be a 6 character piece. Either way, this is a number that refers to what type of module it is. So, if you put the 3 parts together, that will be the part number that they are after. It is possible, that because of the year, you may only have the old Jaguar number on the module which will look something like JLE2500AD (this happens to be for a body module of your car). JLE is referring to the type of car, 2500 to the type of module that it is, and AD as to the program version.

Unfortunately, that is where my help with your car becomes limited. I am not familiar with the XK's and do not know a lot about them. This would be one of those things I would need to put my hands on the car to gain the needed information.

 

Hi Thermo;
I appreciate your response! For what it's worth, I have 3W83-2C219-BD on the DSC module, and 3W83-2C405-AD on the associated motor.
I will carry on, here.
Thanks again