Need help with codes.
#1
#2
Ok the p1111 is the cars pass code Its common code(don't worry about this one.
the p0304,305,306 Those are misfire codes for cylinders 4,5,6. (0304= cylinder 4)
These could be anything from a vacuum leak to bad plugs or coils, even a loose ground on the coil pack wires.
the 1316 is misfires exceed emissions.
Hope this helps. If you need to start somewhere I would pull off the air box check all wires and hoses for rips,tears, or dryrott. then start at the plugs under the air box and see what you have. Look inside the plug wells and see if you see oil. If you do then you found your problem.
Good luck. I will check back on this thread to see what more I could do for you,
The Dr!
the p0304,305,306 Those are misfire codes for cylinders 4,5,6. (0304= cylinder 4)
These could be anything from a vacuum leak to bad plugs or coils, even a loose ground on the coil pack wires.
the 1316 is misfires exceed emissions.
Hope this helps. If you need to start somewhere I would pull off the air box check all wires and hoses for rips,tears, or dryrott. then start at the plugs under the air box and see what you have. Look inside the plug wells and see if you see oil. If you do then you found your problem.
Good luck. I will check back on this thread to see what more I could do for you,
The Dr!
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shotime92 (08-30-2013)
#4
shotime92, humor me and give this a try. Go out to the car first thing in the morning and turn the ignition key to the "RUN" position (do not start the engine), wait about 10 seconds (should hear the fuel pump turn off in this time), and then attempt to start the car. If it starts up with no issues, then you have a fuel pump that is starting to go and what is happening is the fuel rail is loosing its pressure and developing air pockets, leading to the rough running and misfires.
Lets see what you have then.
Lets see what you have then.
The following users liked this post:
shotime92 (08-30-2013)
#5
shotime92, humor me and give this a try. Go out to the car first thing in the morning and turn the ignition key to the "RUN" position (do not start the engine), wait about 10 seconds (should hear the fuel pump turn off in this time), and then attempt to start the car. If it starts up with no issues, then you have a fuel pump that is starting to go and what is happening is the fuel rail is loosing its pressure and developing air pockets, leading to the rough running and misfires.
Lets see what you have then.
Lets see what you have then.
#6
shotime, what i have seen happen with vehicles is that you will get a fuel pump that will start leaking backwards and it will allow air bubbles to form in the fuel lines. This can lead to the motor being harder to start (ie, takes 5 seconds of cranking vice starting within 1-2 seconds) or the motor will run a little goofey til the bubbles are worked out. By turning the key to the RUN position and letting it set for a 10 seconds, you are allowing most of the bubbles to be worked out of the system and getting the fuel system up to pressure like it should be.
The same thing can be seen with an older battery. The car will start to take longer and longer to catch. But, after putting in the new battery, it will fire pretty much as soon as the key is turned.
The same thing can be seen with an older battery. The car will start to take longer and longer to catch. But, after putting in the new battery, it will fire pretty much as soon as the key is turned.
#7
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#8
shotime, just a silly question. Did you re-gap the plugs before you installed the new plugs. yes, they are supposed to be gapped correctly coming out of the box, but at the same time, they get bounced around inside those boxes and who knows what has happened to the gap. Just something to think about.
#9
shotime, just a silly question. Did you re-gap the plugs before you installed the new plugs. yes, they are supposed to be gapped correctly coming out of the box, but at the same time, they get bounced around inside those boxes and who knows what has happened to the gap. Just something to think about.
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