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I changed gaskets (IMT O-rings, Upper intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, plugs and sparkplug coil packs, The car went from skipping, hesitating and transmission bogging over 3000 RPMS to purring, The check engine light came back on after resetting the codes, then did a rescan, and got the below information. Looking forward to the forum gurus to help out with which one to take care of first.
on a side note looks like the upper hose is now leaking, I just ordered the upper hose assembly. Stay tuned on that!
My first thoughts on seeing your codes is (A) Battery is failing (B) Battery cable connectors need cleaning and possibly tightening. (c) Battery cable is failing.
I don't think you have any thing wrong yet just low voltage to the modules that will toss up a laundry list of codes.
I would start by removing, load testing and charging the battery. Then clean and brightly polish the cable connectors and reinstall the proven good battery. Next clear all of the codes.
The final check is start the vehicle and turn on everything electrical a/c, fog light high beams, heated seats/rear window everything that will put a load on the battery. Let it run for a few minutes and then shut off and check the battery cables by holding your hand over them. Don't touch just feel for heat. Does either one feel to hot to touch? If it does that cable is corroded internally and needs to be replaced.
If everything is now working ok then clear the codes and take it for a test drive and see if new codes are generated
Ok, so I checked the battery a bit ago, it read 12.45 cold (everything off, but still connected) and 14.5 when running. Let me disconnect and charge and clean terminals. I may not have access to get codes reset for a bit.
Mgtalman, if you have access to the car, you can clear the codes. You simply disconnect the battery. I would say to do a simple load test yourself. What you are going to do is let the car get to ambient temp (sit over night?). You will then get in the car, start it up, then turn on the headlights, dash fan on high, seat heaters and rear defroster. Let the car idle for 5-10 minutes. After the time is up, turn everything off and open the hood/bonnet. Cup your hand OVER the battery terminals. Do they feel about the same temp as the rest of the metal parts in the area or is one/both of the terminals really warm/hot. If you feel a temperature difference between the terminals, the hotter terminal has an issue and you need to fix it/replace it. These have been known to get hot enough to fry an egg on it. Hence why I say to cup your hand over the terminal.
That is quite a detailed scan, what are you using to read the codes?
+1 for Thermo's advice above about the battery cable. I have been getting misfiring and misfire codes that I think are the result of a bad battery cable. I used a non-contact thermometer and was shocked how hot the positive battery terminal was getting after just a couple minutes, so hot I shut down the test. I replaced the positive cables in 2 stages, first only the cable to the fuse box then the cable to the starter and alternator. Only been out for 1 short test drive so far so I'm not ready to declare victory but I'm happy knowing the cables are not going to melt.
Hi everyone,
Well when I changed the upper radiator hose, changed the oil while I was at it, I cleaned the battery terminals just for the heck of it, ran the thing with AC, lights, etc... the terminals were cool actually. The engine light is still on, the engine is running really nice and smooth. Ok I may just bite the bullet and get a battery and check the oxygen sensor module.
Separate topic, now when running I'm hearing a hum coming from the rear end, seems to get louder the quicker I go. I suspect there is a page on it here and will search.
thanks everyone
Last edited by Mgtalman; 10-31-2020 at 11:50 AM.
Reason: mispell
Hi everyone,
Well when I changed the upper radiator hose, changed the oil while I was at it, I cleaned the battery terminals just for the heck of it, ran the thing with AC, lights, etc... the terminals were cool actually. The engine light is still on, the engine is running really nice and smooth. Ok I may just bite the bullet and get a battery and check the oxygen sensor module.
Separate topic, now when running I'm hearing a hum coming from the rear end, seems to get louder the quicker I go. I suspect there is a page on it here and will search.
thanks everyone
The malfunction indicator light we’ll probably go off after a couple of drive cycles without error