Ive just had to replace my 2.5 engine, as it seems the last one had one of the big ends go - have put everything back together, and went to start it yesterday, only to find nothing happened (or at least the engine didnt turn over or fire at all), and all I got was a whirring noise from the computer on the side of the inlet manifold. The Engine management light is still on (and unfortunately i dont have access to diagnostics), but am not sure if this is due to the previous engine, and just needs clearing. Would anyone have any ideas what I can try to get the egnine started?? AN suggestions would be great
CHeers

 

Sibluiz,
I'll try and give you a bump. Noticed you didn’t get any replies. Here is my opinion.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sibluiz

....nothing happened (or at least the engine didn’t turn over or fire at all), and all I got was a whirring noise

From this description it is very hard to know if you have a battery problem or the flywheel is locked up. Is this a used engine or did you rebuild it. I know you said

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sibluiz

....have put everything back together

but that could mean installed used engine and re-installed subframe and all the other stuff. Can you hand turn the engine using the crank pulley bolt? (motor not frozen) Did you see the flywheel when you mounted the starter? Did you get the wiring right? There are 2 connections to the starter, miss one and NO ENGINE TURN.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sibluiz

....The Engine management light is still on ....just needs clearing.

As for the clearing of the ECU. You did disconnect the battery when you removed the engine, right. That should have cleared the code. Until you actually start the engine and it runs under its own power the "MIL" (check engine) lamp will be lit.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks JF - the engine itself was a secondhand one, but was in car before I bought it, and had it running, etc so know that is ok - have checked flywheel and that turns ok, and have checked battery and that has full charge! Re Starter - have three leads - one to neg terminal, going to neg terminal on battery, one to positive, and going on to alternator, and third (smaller yellow), which goes to fusebox (had photo of old engine before I took this off, and have replaced it to same spot - not one of the main terminals on starter, but a smaller terminal towards the rear of the engine bay - have checked wiring against the Jag wiring diagrams and all seems to be ok.

Seems that I'm not even getting the starter motor to turn over at all tho....

Thanks for the help tho - much appreciated!

Simon

 

Interesting......hmmmm. My starter 02 x-type gas 3.0 only has two. One to the positive terminal and the second (the yellow wire). have you tried to do a false crank? That is to use a screw driver across the starter terminals - the +battery and the yellow wire terminal on the starter. This will cause the starter to engage manually. It would also check the starter to see if it’s any good. Take a VOM (volt Ohm Meter) and check the +battery terminal on the starter for +12v. If good then you "might" have a bad starter. If you get nothing, check the battery cable for any fusible link (my 02 has no fusible link but yours might). If no link remove the starter and bench test. If it test good. Re-check your wiring and test end point voltage.

Recently my battery would show "charged" on a charger and 12+ no problem. Could turn on lights, radio etc all seemed to work but the battery had not enough current to crank. One text for this, simply turn on your lights, radio and blower. Now turn the key to start position, if everything stops then you most likely have a bad battery. You can have it checked out at your local battery store, Interstate Batteries, Sears or the Auto Parts stores.

An engine only needs Ground, Power and Engage Signal at the starter to crank. Nothing more is required to "turn" the engine.