New here. Just wanted to give a shout-out.
#1
New here. Just wanted to give a shout-out.
You guys are great.
I am new to Jags. This past March, I bought my wife a pretty "cherry" 2003 Jaguar X-Type 3.0
We needed the AWD due to where we live (northern New England).
Anyway, you guys are great.
I was starting to be convinced that the "Check Engine Light" was somehow tied to some great force in the universe.
Meaning, a tree falls in China, the check engine light comes on.
It's cold outside, the check engine light comes on.
The car is jealous because you are spending the night with your wife, the check engine light comes on.
Some fat guy farts in Russia....you get the picture.
Well, with your help, I was able to determine that the original O-Rings on the Throttle Controls were bad and I was able to also install the new ones without disassembling the entire damn engine!
Parts = $8
Labor = 20 minutes or so.....
Went out and bought a code reader, reset the computer and Viola! Seems to have done the trick.
Other things that I have learned about this car (or found out the hard way!).
The lug nuts are absolute crap. Every single one of them should be replaced immediately!
(Ask me how I know this.)
This Jaguar loves fuel injector cleaner. 93 octane fuel works better than 91. It has been my experience that fuel injector cleaner should be used regularly.
If you can help it.......buy the Ford branded hoses/parts.
Anyway, thanks guys! You have already saved me a ton of dough, and I expect more will be saved in the future.
Thanks again.
Mike
I am new to Jags. This past March, I bought my wife a pretty "cherry" 2003 Jaguar X-Type 3.0
We needed the AWD due to where we live (northern New England).
Anyway, you guys are great.
I was starting to be convinced that the "Check Engine Light" was somehow tied to some great force in the universe.
Meaning, a tree falls in China, the check engine light comes on.
It's cold outside, the check engine light comes on.
The car is jealous because you are spending the night with your wife, the check engine light comes on.
Some fat guy farts in Russia....you get the picture.
Well, with your help, I was able to determine that the original O-Rings on the Throttle Controls were bad and I was able to also install the new ones without disassembling the entire damn engine!
Parts = $8
Labor = 20 minutes or so.....
Went out and bought a code reader, reset the computer and Viola! Seems to have done the trick.
Other things that I have learned about this car (or found out the hard way!).
The lug nuts are absolute crap. Every single one of them should be replaced immediately!
(Ask me how I know this.)
This Jaguar loves fuel injector cleaner. 93 octane fuel works better than 91. It has been my experience that fuel injector cleaner should be used regularly.
If you can help it.......buy the Ford branded hoses/parts.
Anyway, thanks guys! You have already saved me a ton of dough, and I expect more will be saved in the future.
Thanks again.
Mike
#4
They are the IMT O-rings. See the "Jaguar" Cowl covering your engine? The plastic cover that says "Jaguar" accross it and the oil cap screws over?
The IMT "cans" look exactly like black plastic cans and are each held on by 2 screws. They are located ABOVE the cowl to the left (towards the passenger/driver compartment, as opposed to the grill)
The original OEM O-rings are crap and Jaguar sanctioned a new, beefier green O-Ring as a replacement. The originals are yellow and dry up, shrink and crack over time. This causes vacuum leaks and will trigger the dreaded "Check Engine Light".
The new ones are a whopping $3.48 each online (you'll need 2 to do both "cans". 1 each.) You'll have to order them online, as NOBODY (except your Jag dealer) is going to have them. If you're worried a bout them, pull the top one off and look at it. If the ring is green, you are good. If it is yellow, order a replacement set.
Piece of cake to replace, actually, couldn't be easier with a small socket wrench. Took me about a half hour, total, and it was 20 degrees F outside when I did it.
IF your check engine light is on, and this is the culprit, you'll have to reset it with a "OBD" comuter. You can get one at Walmart for $99 that does all kinds of stuff.
Invest in one, you're gonna need it.
These Jags seem to be VERY touchy, and the slightest ANYTHING will trigger the "Check Engine Light".
With the OBD scanner, you can pull codes, reset the light and diagnose where the trouble actually lies.
My codes actually translated to:
"Mixture too lean"
"Vacuum leak (slight)"
That was the air pissing out around the old o-rings.
Here's a YouTube link showing EXACTLY where they are and how to change them.
The IMT "cans" look exactly like black plastic cans and are each held on by 2 screws. They are located ABOVE the cowl to the left (towards the passenger/driver compartment, as opposed to the grill)
The original OEM O-rings are crap and Jaguar sanctioned a new, beefier green O-Ring as a replacement. The originals are yellow and dry up, shrink and crack over time. This causes vacuum leaks and will trigger the dreaded "Check Engine Light".
The new ones are a whopping $3.48 each online (you'll need 2 to do both "cans". 1 each.) You'll have to order them online, as NOBODY (except your Jag dealer) is going to have them. If you're worried a bout them, pull the top one off and look at it. If the ring is green, you are good. If it is yellow, order a replacement set.
Piece of cake to replace, actually, couldn't be easier with a small socket wrench. Took me about a half hour, total, and it was 20 degrees F outside when I did it.
IF your check engine light is on, and this is the culprit, you'll have to reset it with a "OBD" comuter. You can get one at Walmart for $99 that does all kinds of stuff.
Invest in one, you're gonna need it.
These Jags seem to be VERY touchy, and the slightest ANYTHING will trigger the "Check Engine Light".
With the OBD scanner, you can pull codes, reset the light and diagnose where the trouble actually lies.
My codes actually translated to:
"Mixture too lean"
"Vacuum leak (slight)"
That was the air pissing out around the old o-rings.
Here's a YouTube link showing EXACTLY where they are and how to change them.
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04xtype04 (12-15-2013)
#6
#7
Turning off the EML light with your reader cures nothing !! ( except turning the light off ) Its just a warning .. your fault is still there & Yes!! the light will come back on !!Read --Diagnose -- cure fault , through repair -- turn light off .My reader cost £ 14.99 off E bay ( including postage )
Last edited by Five Speed; 12-15-2013 at 06:20 AM.
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#8
I would send you a picture or 2, but the car is under a foot of snow currently, so not much to see there.....lol.
I ordered my O-Rings from http://www.http://www.terrysjag.com/...S40669005.html
You'll need 2 (obviously).
I dunno if you can get a suitable replacement from a Ford dealer, but at less than $4 apiece, why bother trying?
To replace the bottom O-Ring where the can will not come all the way out of the manifold, simply disconnect the electric connector, then stretch the new O-ring over the connector and into place.
I ordered my O-Rings from http://www.http://www.terrysjag.com/...S40669005.html
You'll need 2 (obviously).
I dunno if you can get a suitable replacement from a Ford dealer, but at less than $4 apiece, why bother trying?
To replace the bottom O-Ring where the can will not come all the way out of the manifold, simply disconnect the electric connector, then stretch the new O-ring over the connector and into place.
#10
Turning off the EML light with your reader cures nothing !! ( except turning the light off ) Its just a warning .. your fault is still there & Yes!! the light will come back on !!Read --Diagnose -- cure fault , through repair -- turn light off .My reader cost £ 14.99 off E bay ( including postage )
I did fix it.
But then you have to clear the code.
#12
Thanks for the info. I do have an obd scanner already, picked one up last year when I started working on cars more. I will check out the o-rings and see what kind of shape they are in. Have to do the spark plugs too eventually so maybe I will just replace them when I do that if it needs it. Do the IMT things slide out and then you put the gasket on and slide them back in? He mentioned possibly removing the intake manifold for the lower one. Was that o-ring difficult to change?
Last edited by 04xtype04; 12-15-2013 at 12:36 PM.
#13
Hey 04xtype04.
The TOP "can" slides all the way out, so replacing the o-ring is a piece of cake. You don't even have to undo the electrical connection to it.
You do NOT have to remove the manifold to replace the o-ring on the lower "can" (though the Jag repair manual states you do. You do NOT!)
What you do is remove the two bolts, and remove the electrical connector. It just "unclips" and slides out of the electrical socket.
Then slide the "can" back (it will come out about 3 inches, but not enough to totally remove it).
Take a sharp knife and slice the existing yellow o-ring so you can pull it off.
When I removed the top can, and when I slid back the bottom can, I generously cleaned the inside of the manifold with Carb-Cleaner and wiped off any grime that was around the connection area (of which there will be some, trust me!)
Take the new, beefier green o-ring and STRETCH it carefully over the electrical connector on the bottom can and put it into place. It will go right on, and the o-ring will absolutely stretch over the connector. I did it in below freezing temps and it wasn't brittle or anything (though I did keep the o-ring in the house until installation to keep it supple).
I used Petroleum Jelly (which is probably incorrect, but that's what I used) to sort of "lube-up" the o-rings, and just bolt the cans back into place, plug the connector in, and you are golden.
Use the correct socket for the bolts, be gentle with them, and this really is a 20 minute job which will cost you like $8 in parts + shipping. It is a piece of cake!
I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was. I am no mechanic, for sure, but according to the Jag repair manual, this is a 2.5 hour procedure.
Um, no.......
It took me less than a half-hour total and fixed my problem, and I went into the house a few times to warm my fingers up.
The TOP "can" slides all the way out, so replacing the o-ring is a piece of cake. You don't even have to undo the electrical connection to it.
You do NOT have to remove the manifold to replace the o-ring on the lower "can" (though the Jag repair manual states you do. You do NOT!)
What you do is remove the two bolts, and remove the electrical connector. It just "unclips" and slides out of the electrical socket.
Then slide the "can" back (it will come out about 3 inches, but not enough to totally remove it).
Take a sharp knife and slice the existing yellow o-ring so you can pull it off.
When I removed the top can, and when I slid back the bottom can, I generously cleaned the inside of the manifold with Carb-Cleaner and wiped off any grime that was around the connection area (of which there will be some, trust me!)
Take the new, beefier green o-ring and STRETCH it carefully over the electrical connector on the bottom can and put it into place. It will go right on, and the o-ring will absolutely stretch over the connector. I did it in below freezing temps and it wasn't brittle or anything (though I did keep the o-ring in the house until installation to keep it supple).
I used Petroleum Jelly (which is probably incorrect, but that's what I used) to sort of "lube-up" the o-rings, and just bolt the cans back into place, plug the connector in, and you are golden.
Use the correct socket for the bolts, be gentle with them, and this really is a 20 minute job which will cost you like $8 in parts + shipping. It is a piece of cake!
I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was. I am no mechanic, for sure, but according to the Jag repair manual, this is a 2.5 hour procedure.
Um, no.......
It took me less than a half-hour total and fixed my problem, and I went into the house a few times to warm my fingers up.
#14
I would send you a picture or 2, but the car is under a foot of snow currently, so not much to see there.....lol.
I ordered my O-Rings from www.http://www.terrysjag.com/product/C2S40669005.html
You'll need 2 (obviously).
I ordered my O-Rings from www.http://www.terrysjag.com/product/C2S40669005.html
You'll need 2 (obviously).
I will check mine to see what's in there now. I need to replace the plugs soon so I'll have the intake off anyway.
#15
Checked mine and they were green. When I replaced the plugs there were 2 large o-rings included with the upper manifold gaskets. They looked like the same size as the o-rings on the IMT's. I pulled the IMT's out and the o-rings were the same. The green coloring was coming off the ones that were installed and they were black underneath. I installed the new ones and all is good.
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