Hello! I have just purchased a 2002 X Type 3.0 in BRG from an Estate. She belonged to an elderly Lady, who was the Original Owner, and shows 98,000 miles. It was purchased new at the dealer in Portland Oregon and has every recommended service record since new. The car is immaculate in photos, however I have never seen Her in person. The gent handling the Sale says she won't hold a charge, ( Alternator) and a couple of codes are showing, one is transmission. The Car is located about 125 miles from where I live. I'm wondering if I put a new deep cycle battery in Her, then bring another with Me I will be able to make the journey back home before she dies. I have ordered a new Alternator but it wont arrive for a week. I have owned two XJ-6's a 1961 3.4, and years ago a 1959 XK 150 Roadster, but this is My first X type. I've heard all the horror stories, but She is so beautiful I feel I must Buy Her. Think I Can Make it Home? Thanks, Mike. Ps; The Car has been garaged for a little over one year.

 

Mike, you should be able to make it home on a single battery. The big thing that I would tell you is to do it during the day to minimize how many lights you need on and also to hope for a sunny day. Drive with the windows cracked/rolled down as needed to maintain the inside of the car at a decent temp. Then it is just a matter of keeping things moving. With only the engine running for the most part, you should only be pulling around 10-15 amps and since most batteries are rated at 80 amp-hours, you should have 6ish hours. The other idea is you are going to need to have someone drive you there, so, just bring a set of jumper cables with you. Connect up the cables to get the battery fairly charged (will take about 15 minutes assuming there is some charge left in the battery), take off on down the road. If after an hour the car starts running bad, pull off to the side of the road and connect up the jumper cables again to put another shot of juice into the battery.

With this all being said, I would venture to guess that the battery cables are shot in the car. You may be able to replace them right in the driveway and do a single run all the way home without having to stop. There are lots of posts about people having this sort of issue and it is the battery cables causing the grief.

 

Thanks Chris. I feel much better. Sadly I must take a Bus up to retrieve Her but I think She is worth the effort. Still a little concerned why there would be a transmission code, but he didn't give me a code number. Guess I'll find out Monday. I'll let you know how I did, and, a Tip of the Cap To You and Thank You as
I appreciate the help, Mike.

 

Also, I found the Cdde they sent me : P1643, if anyone knows what it refers to. Thanks Again, Mike.

 

I would really prefer having a support car trailing me back home with a decent set of tools, a couple of gallons of water or coolant,, and as Thermo said; a set of good jumper cables. In lieu of that;

The thing that gets my attention is the battery not charging, and the first thing that I would do is put a digital voltmeter on the cables to see if the alternator is putting out voltage when the engine is running. Running the car 150 miles on a edgy battery and having a spare to swap in is a dicey situation. I would also disconnect the battery to clear/reset the ECM/TCM codes then see what (if any) codes return. I quick Google search revealed that P1643 is a Gearbox Fault, how serious it is in terms of drivability is something that I would research more.

The cars looks nice and the interior appears to be in very good condition.

Good luck Mike and let us know how it turns out.

PS Be sure to check the spare tire and make sure that the jack and tools are present!

 

Mike, per my Jaguar code listing, that is saying that you have a network issue between the ECM and the TCM (ie, engine and tranny computers). So, the obvious things are going to be that you won't be able to rev the engine over 3,000 RPM, cruise control will not work, and the throttle is going to be limited to how far it will open (only opens to a max of 30%, so, may not be able to reach highway speeds). Now, this could be an easy fix (simply a plug that has come partially undone) or could be buried somewhere in say the dash where a cable has become damaged by a sharp edge and is grounding out. So, that will be an interesting one to figure out. It could even be an issue with the ECM or TCM. I doubt it is the engine ECM as this would also tend to not allow the car to start (must communicate with the instrument cluster to send signals to allow the starter to engage and provide spark to the coils). If you can shift the gear lever (aka, the J-gate) and the tranny seems to shift gears, then you can probably rule out the TCM. So, that would pretty much leave just a problem between the ECM and TCM and the data wires.

The other thing I would be looking at is whether the ABS system is functioning. This would be evident by 2 things. 1 being if the speedo works. If not, then the problem is more towards the TCM. If the speedo works, then the wiring that splits off between the ECM/TCM over to the ABS module is good. and says that the TCM is sending the data over to the instrument cluster.

Based on what I am seeing from the posts above, it would almost appear as if the TCM is having issues and is causing a current draw when the car is turned off and it is affecting the data link between the ECM and TCM. So, you may be good to go on getting the car home (as the alternator will keep things charged up as you drive). But, once you get home, you will be troubleshooting to rule out what is causing the current draw with the car turned off. I can send you some drawings that will help with this.

 

Thanks Chris and Blown Kitty. I'm not much of a wrench myself, so must rely on my local guy. I guess I'll just have to rely on luck to get me home. i have roadside assistance, but not much phone reception in the mountains. Any drawings or advice will be appreciated, and Thanks to both of you for all the support so far. I'll let you know what transpires if I make it home tomorrow. Thanks Again, Mike.

 

MIke, PM me your e-mail addy and I will send you the diagrams for your car.

On a side note, try and minimize the amount of braking that you have to do. While the brake lights may not seem like a big load, they will almost double the current coming out when you are on the brakes. So, ease off the gas pedal a little early to allow the car to coast a bit to loose speed or be a little aggressive with the brakes to get a quick drop in speed (just make sure no one is behind you). HOpefully the people are kind to you and top up the battery before they give it to you. Otherwise, that second battery is going to be critical.

I guess the big question that I would be looking to have answered before I got on the road is "what is the voltage across the battery when the engine is running?". If you have 13.7ish VDC, then you will be good. If you have 12.5 VDC, then you are going to need to be extremely energy efficient (ie, stay at highway speeds as much as possible, minimize brake usage, no dash fan, etc). This is where I would start the drive home, but the first parts place you see, you stop and get that second battery and a set of jumper cables just in case you need to give the installed battery a little boost.

 

Thanks Again Chris. I appreciate Your Help and concern more than You know. I intend to purchase the new Battery first, and install it before I leave using the original as the backup. Also, I've always used compression over brakes, so my pads always last a long while. Thanks so much for all Your shared knowledge. Hope I can repay both You and Blown Kitty one Day. I will let You know when I get home, Mike.

speedway1947@yahoo.com

 

Mike, if you live near Albany, OR, then that might be possible. I have a friend down in that part of OR and we go down to see them once in a blue moon.

 

I'm a ways from Albany, but I did run the VW Mazda Store there in 1984. Anyway I just got home. Original Battery failed after about 60 miles, but new Battery took me the rest of the way without issue. Did stop and trade the Original in for another new one to be safe but didn't need it. Check engine light and charge light on the whole trip, but no troubles save for a tire shimmy at 77 mph. Other than that car ran just fine. As soon as the new alternator and serpentine belt with tensioner arrive I will get them installed, and change oil from Castrol to Mobil One 0/40 European Formula, and flush cooling system. Oh the fuel gauge is inaccurate, but no big thing. I appreciate all the help and good wishes. Hope I can return the favor, Mike.

 

Woo-hoo congrats Mike!

I use plain old 5w30 in both of my X-Type's, The fuel gauge might start reading correctly after a few fill-ups and you can also add a can of liquid Berryman's B-12 to help clean any deposits that might be in the fuel system and sending unit.

Chad

PS Please post more pics when you can

 

Thanks Chad, I'll try it today. Just waiting for My Alternator to arrive. I appreciate all the help and advice, and I'm sure i'll have more questions as things progress, Mike

 

Mike, not to squash some hope at the moment, but did you get a jaguar OEM alternator or some other alternator that says it will work. A lot of guys have tried to replace their alternators with another brand and they seem to have more issues than it solves. I am not sure what it is about those alternators, but I am sure there are people around here that will give you their horror stories.

 

Of Course, i bought an aftermarket alternator. With My Luck what else would I have done. So I guess i should return it as soon as it arrives and purchase an OEM one. Stupid of Me to think this would go easily. I have more phantoms popping up, but I will wait to see what happens after the correct Alternator is installed. Thanks for Your support through this ordeal, Mike.

 

Chris, Just Found an OEM Alternator On Line: $922.00 with a $244.00 Core Charge. What have I done. I'm forced to stick with the aftermarket, or end My suffering after two days of X Type ownership. I feel the Wrecking Yard Calling me, Ouch!!

I read here that it's hard to kill an X Type Alternator. Could the problem be My Cables or a ground somewhere? This car sat for 16 months until yesterday. I hate to scrap her, but I just can't afford another $1150 for an Alternator, plus labor on a 19 year old Car. Of Course Chris, You told Me about the cables, but it has been storming so hard last night and today i haven't checked. Will any battery Cables Do, or do I need special OEM ones. Thanks, Mike.

 

I would go with the AM alternator, and another avenue would be a used one from an auto recycler/wrecker (junk yard).

First things first; Have you measured the voltage at the battery cables where they attach to the battery? IIRC there are a couple of wires (alternator is one of them) that are bolted onto the positive cable), unbolt them, thoroughly clean them with a wire brush, then reassemble them. I wouldn't even think about replacing the alternator unless I'm certain that it's not putting out voltage.

 

Mike, I am not trying to get you down, but I feel that you need to know the perils of aftermarket alternators and these cars. there are a few checks that you can do. But, like what BlownKitty says, you have the aftermarket alternator, might as well give it a try. You may get lucky.

The cable check I tell people to do is to get the battery up to 100% charge. Then start the car and turn on: Headlights, seat heaters, dash fan on high, and rear defroster. Let the car sit like this for 5-10 minutes, starting with a cold motor. After your 5-10 minute wait, turn off the electrical stuff and cup your hand OVER!!!!!! the battery terminals. If you feel the terminals emitting heat, then that cable is most likely bad (should be at about the same temp as the surrounding metal). Some say they thought they could fry an egg on the terminal (hence why I say OVER). As for replacement cables, people have gone both ways. Getting the cables through the internet isn't bad. Just keep in mind that the positive cable is a 2 piece cable (one part runs from the battery to the starter, second cable runs from the starter to the alternator).

I would personally start with diagnosing the cables as that is the more likely suspect. It is also easier to say "this is good, this is bad" if you have a multimeter. If you don't know how to use a multimeter, let me know. I will step you through everything.

 

Thanks Chad, and Chris. I'll get a Multimeter today. I don't have a garage so will try when this storm passes, or take it to the shop I use. Don't want to give up on this car, but I'm on a fixed income, and trying to fix up an old MGB for my Granddaughter, so I'm fighting on two fronts. You Guys are the Best! Mike

 

Chris, I tried the heat test on the terminals today, The Positive side was quite warm, but not really hot. I still can't understand the After Market alternator problems. The Seller has no negative reviews about the Alternator, and states it meets or exceeds OEM spec's. What is the difference? I read Deans Blog, but still don't understand. I don't want to give up on this Jag, so in for a Penny, in for a Pound. I'll order new cables, about $180, and see what happens. There is something drawing the battery down when the car is off. I learned that this morning, so now disconnect Negative terminal when parked. Thanks Again, Mike.