MIke, like i said, you can try the aftermarket unit. I just know the problems others have had. It has something to do with jag as I recall uses a pulse width modulation setup to regulate the voltage (ie, the voltage regulator is turn on to max, off, on to max, off and the on to off time controls the voltage). Where, the problem alternators are looking for a signal that slowly ramps up to some voltage and remains at that voltage to set the car's voltage. It is this constant on/off that raises hell with the aftermarket units.

If you want some pointers on how to isolate the drain that you have, look under my name as I have talked a lot of people through finding the drain. If you need me to help you out, speak up and I will post it here too.

 

Again Chris, Many Thanks. I'll read up on your Posts. I've ordered new cables hoping that may solve the problem. I've noticed the Car runs rough and wants to die when first started when cold. Even with a fresh fully charged battery. Smooths out once it starts to warm up. Ah, the joys of c Car Guy... Hope to talk again soon, Mike.

 

Mike, the rough idle is most likely caused by 1 of 2 things. The more likely is that the plugs are due to be changed (supposed to be changed at 100K miles). A few hours of time and new plugs will be in. You will hear horror stories about how difficult the intake is to remove. Not that bad. Yes, the first time there are a few hidden bolts. But, I found that after the first time, removing the intake becomes pretty darn easy. Just don't go bonkers on tightening the bolts on the center of the intake. They screw into the plastic insert for the fuel injectors via a brass pressed in insert. You go too tight, that insert will spin on you in the future. Then there is a 10mm bolt on the back side of the intake holding a wiring harness. I would say to also unbolt the throttle body from the intake to make moving the intake around easier and also not require you to drain the coolant.

The second thing is you may have some gum build up on the throttle body. remove the black plastic intake tube on the air filter side of the throttle body. take a rag wtih some carb cleaner on it and wipe the inside to remove any brown stuff in there. Use a finger and manually open the butterfly valve, clean deeper in there. The most important part to make sure is clean is the edge of the butterfly valve. You want to spray the carb cleaner into the intake, go for it. If you are worried about flooding out the car, don't be. Attempt to start the car. If it don't want to play, you simply depress the gas pedal down as far as it will go and then attempt to start the car. After about 5 seconds or so, start easing up on the gas. The car will catch. I know what you are thinking, the car is going to start and scream right up to redline. NO IT WILL NOT. Having the gas pedal all the way down as you crank the engine is a signal to the ECU to not fire the fuel injectors and to simply let air flow through the engine. When you start easing off the gas, it will start adding fuel and allow you to bring the engine up to idle.

 

Thanks so much Chris, You are a Life, No A Jag Saver! Without You and Chad I would have given up on Her already. I'll no doubt use my mechanic for the plugs and new coil packs too., Mike.

 

You're a lucky fella. Any horror stories are from lightweights who will always connect "Jaguar" = "trouble" but the X type is a reliable, solid car. I've owned 4 Jag's and my '03 X type is by far the best of them all. That Xmission code may be an old code from a burp and unlikely with less then 100K driven by an older person not hot rodding about town. X is designed for towing, has towing eye located drivers side front bumper and towing bolt in trunk under tire cover. I wouldn't count on battery charges to make it 125 miles

 

@tomgee111

Uummm....NOT made to tow. You need to read your owners manual.

Towing an X-type

Caution:
• This vehicle has an all-wheel drive
(AWD) transmission system. Do
NOT tow the vehicle with the front
wheels lifted unless the propshaft
to the rear wheels is disconnected
at the final drive flange. If the
propshaft is not disconnected, the
rotating rear wheels will force the
front wheels to rotate, even with the
gear selector in neutral.
• The vehicle can be towed with all
four wheels on the ground,
provided there is no damage to the
transmission, for a maximum
distance of 30 miles (50 kilometres)
with the speed not exceeding
30 mph (50 km/h).

Automatic transmission:

To prevent damage to the automatic
transmission whilst an AWD vehicle is
being towed with the rear wheels on the
ground, towing distance must be
restricted to 0.5 miles (0.8 kilometres).
Towing speed must not exceed 30 mph
(50 km/h).

 

Thanks Tom! All I see now is the battery Light and the check engine light. Car runs great once warmed up, and a strong battery of course. Shop cant fit me in for a week and a half so I'll be charging and switching batteries until then. Don't think I would do any towing with her though. I think those eyes were designed for tying her down on a vessel when they were imported, Mike

 

Good you made it home OK. For future reference, I was referring to the towing locations, not the tie downs, on the driver side behind the front grille and under the rear bumper, the I bolt located in the trunk illustrated here. However, It can be towed only for a short distance due to all wheel drive. Good luck

 

Thanks for the heads up. My '03 handbook says nothing about that in the towing section however i'll certainly go with those instructions if I ever get stuck

 

Hi Mike,
The best purchase I ever made for my Jag (a 2003 XJ8) was an inexpensive battery maintainer like a CTEK. I plug it in a couple of times a week
and now I never get random codes, etc. caused by slightly low battery voltage and it seems to prolong battery life, too.
Cheers,
Andy