No Fuel - PCM or Pump?
#1
No Fuel - PCM or Pump?
Hey guys, I have a 2004 Jaguar X-Type 3.0L that died with no prior problems. It starts for about a half second then stops immediately. It will crank but won't hit. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it will do the same thing.
Here's what I did:
This leads me to believe it's either the fuel pump, fuel pump driver module, or no electricity to the pump. Before replacing the costly fuel pump, I'd like to verify that the Positive wire has electricity for the pump, as well as if the fuel pump driver module is not bad.
Does anyone know which wire on the fuel pump is the hot wire?
Does anyone know how to test the fuel pump driver module, and 1 more important detail... where the heck is it?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Dan
Here's what I did:
- Codes only shows P1000 and P1647 which has been there for a few years. (O2 heater)
- Checked Fuel related fuses which show power on both sides of the fuses
- Pushed the button in for the Inertia Switch as owners manual directed
- There is no shrader valve, so I pulled the output hose of the fuel filter, put a T with a shrader valve on and plugged the output to see if the fuel pump has any pressure. With the switch turned on, there is ZERO pressure, no movement at all on the gauge. There was a little fuel that drained out but not a lot when I took the output hose off the fuel filter
This leads me to believe it's either the fuel pump, fuel pump driver module, or no electricity to the pump. Before replacing the costly fuel pump, I'd like to verify that the Positive wire has electricity for the pump, as well as if the fuel pump driver module is not bad.
Does anyone know which wire on the fuel pump is the hot wire?
Does anyone know how to test the fuel pump driver module, and 1 more important detail... where the heck is it?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Dan
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,381
Likes: 0
Received 3,887 Likes
on
3,194 Posts
Dan, here are a few things that you can try before dropping the fuel tank to get at the parts. There is a schrader valve on your car. If you open the hood and look over by the passenger front tire (US cars), right near the end of the intake you should see the schrader valve there. Good numbers to keep in mind is 50 psig with the engine not running and 40 psig with the engine running. If you are more than say 5 psig below those numbers, this is a sign that your fuel pump is worn out.
Next, get access to the underside of your car, specifically around the fuel tank, passenger side. If you look at the under side of the fuel tank, you will see a half moon indentation in the tank. You will want to take say a rubber mallet or your fist and give the tank a good thump (don't cave in the tank, but it should have a decent strike). If you do this with the key in the RUN position and a gauge connected and you see the pressure rise after doing this, then this confirms your fuel pump is toast and needs to be corrected.
If things remain at effectively no pressure, then you may very well have a fuel pump module issue. Now, for the words you don't want to hear. The fuel pump module is located on top of the fuel tank. So, to access, you have to drop the fuel tank.
To see if the fuel pump is getting power, you will find a 4 pin connector going to the fuel pump/level sender. If you look at the connector, you should see imprinted into the plastic the numbers 1 thru 4. #2 is the positive to the fuel pump. Here is the trick, there will only be 12 VDC there for 1 second after turning the key from OFF to RUN. If you are getting power there, then most likely you are looking at a bad fuel pump. Keep in mind that this voltage is referenced to chassis ground.
If you are wanting to troubleshoot the fuel pump module, let me know and I will e-mail you the troubleshooting chart I have for it. The big thing I need to know is whether you have an early 2004 vehicle or a later 2004 vehicle. If you look in the driver's door jam, there is a white/silver sticker there and it will have the build date of the car. Is it on/before March 2004 or after then? There are slight wiring changes that were made during that time and I want to make sure you get the correct information.
One other trick you can try: when attempting to start the car, roll the key to the RUN position and wait there for say 2 seconds and then finally roll the key to the START position. If the car starts easier and/or simply runs at that point, then this would be another sign that the fuel pump is going.
Next, get access to the underside of your car, specifically around the fuel tank, passenger side. If you look at the under side of the fuel tank, you will see a half moon indentation in the tank. You will want to take say a rubber mallet or your fist and give the tank a good thump (don't cave in the tank, but it should have a decent strike). If you do this with the key in the RUN position and a gauge connected and you see the pressure rise after doing this, then this confirms your fuel pump is toast and needs to be corrected.
If things remain at effectively no pressure, then you may very well have a fuel pump module issue. Now, for the words you don't want to hear. The fuel pump module is located on top of the fuel tank. So, to access, you have to drop the fuel tank.
To see if the fuel pump is getting power, you will find a 4 pin connector going to the fuel pump/level sender. If you look at the connector, you should see imprinted into the plastic the numbers 1 thru 4. #2 is the positive to the fuel pump. Here is the trick, there will only be 12 VDC there for 1 second after turning the key from OFF to RUN. If you are getting power there, then most likely you are looking at a bad fuel pump. Keep in mind that this voltage is referenced to chassis ground.
If you are wanting to troubleshoot the fuel pump module, let me know and I will e-mail you the troubleshooting chart I have for it. The big thing I need to know is whether you have an early 2004 vehicle or a later 2004 vehicle. If you look in the driver's door jam, there is a white/silver sticker there and it will have the build date of the car. Is it on/before March 2004 or after then? There are slight wiring changes that were made during that time and I want to make sure you get the correct information.
One other trick you can try: when attempting to start the car, roll the key to the RUN position and wait there for say 2 seconds and then finally roll the key to the START position. If the car starts easier and/or simply runs at that point, then this would be another sign that the fuel pump is going.
The following 2 users liked this post by Thermo:
DanTindell (08-14-2016),
Thang Nguyen (09-02-2016)
#3
I see the fuel pump drive module on Rock Auto (price not too bad) but cannot find it referenced in my Haynes manual. I'd try calling one of the site sponsors (like SNG Barratt) to see where it's located. I think it's near the fuel tank though; if you'll look on YouTube though you'll see replacement videos for this same part on other cars. There's a 10 pin connector on it, so I'm thinking it's an In/Out harness connection - In from the ECM, Out to the fuel pump. If you can find this module you could prolly figure out how to test for power to the fuel pump. If your fuel pump is out then it's a tank drop - Jaguar did not provide access to it under the rear seat cushion (like BMW does). And no tank drain plug either, so it's a huge job - have to drop driveshaft, exhaust and the differential. Yikes. There's YouTube videos that show cutting hole in the body in order to avoid all that. Let us know what you find, as I've got the same car as yours.
The following users liked this post:
DanTindell (08-14-2016)
#4
The fuel pump module is located under the back seat by the rear door behind the driver (USA)
if you remove the rear seat cushion and look from outside the car drivers side (usa) there is a small black box hidden quite well this is the fuel pump module
you will also see a blue and green plug in that area this is for your Radio.
if you remove the rear seat cushion and look from outside the car drivers side (usa) there is a small black box hidden quite well this is the fuel pump module
you will also see a blue and green plug in that area this is for your Radio.
The following 2 users liked this post by Paulc732:
DanTindell (08-14-2016),
swingwing (08-14-2016)
#5
Great! I pulled the back seat out and located the Fuel Pump control modules as Paul described, as well as the big rubber plug on the passenger's side under the seat, above the tank with the connection to the fuel pump.
I did find the video on youtube to cut the hole, and as a former sunroof/t-top installer, cutting the hole will be nothing and I can put it back sealed up and pretty very easily.
Chris, my particular year doesn't have the shrader valve, I've seen what you're talking about but they didn't manufacture it with one. Nevertheless, it's 0 psi key on or off.
So I found a wiring diagram with extensive online searching which shows the pinout on the fuel pump module. This makes troubleshooting terribly easy. Check this out...
Unplug the fuel pump module.
Turn it facing you where the top row has 6 wires, and the bottom row has 2 on left, 2 on right.
Top row is pins 1-6 from left to right
Bottom row is pins 7-10 from left to right
Pin 1, PCM input, brown
Pin 2, Ground to body, black
Pin 3, Fuel pump ground, yellow
Pin 4, Throttle screen, black/green
Pin 5, Fuel pump screen, white
Pin 6,
Pin 7, PCM output, white
Pin 8,
Pin 9, Switched battery positive, brown/green
Pin 10, Fuel pump positive, red
WARNING!!! PLEASE NOTE: if your wiring is different, or touching the wrong wire terminal could fry your PCM Computer or more... proceed at your own risk.
Since I'm getting no fuel pressure at all...
I put my digital volt meter + on pin 9, - on pin 2, turn the key to run position and see voltage. That tells me that I have a ground, and my fuse, relay, and inertia switch are all working.
Turn off the switch and make 2 little jumper wires.
With it still unplugged from the Fuel Pump Module, jump pin 2 ground, to pin 3 fuel pump ground
Also jump pin 9 switched battery positive to pin 10 fuel pump positive
Watch the fuel pressure gauge, and turn the switch to the run position for 2 seconds
If you see normal pressure, the fuel pump module is bad. If you don't see any pressure on the fuel pressure gauge (actually it should be 40-50psi, the fuel pump is bad.
In my case, I didn't see any pressure on the gauge, not even a movement of the needle; so I'll be replacing the fuel pump.
Thanks guys!
I did find the video on youtube to cut the hole, and as a former sunroof/t-top installer, cutting the hole will be nothing and I can put it back sealed up and pretty very easily.
Chris, my particular year doesn't have the shrader valve, I've seen what you're talking about but they didn't manufacture it with one. Nevertheless, it's 0 psi key on or off.
So I found a wiring diagram with extensive online searching which shows the pinout on the fuel pump module. This makes troubleshooting terribly easy. Check this out...
Unplug the fuel pump module.
Turn it facing you where the top row has 6 wires, and the bottom row has 2 on left, 2 on right.
Top row is pins 1-6 from left to right
Bottom row is pins 7-10 from left to right
Pin 1, PCM input, brown
Pin 2, Ground to body, black
Pin 3, Fuel pump ground, yellow
Pin 4, Throttle screen, black/green
Pin 5, Fuel pump screen, white
Pin 6,
Pin 7, PCM output, white
Pin 8,
Pin 9, Switched battery positive, brown/green
Pin 10, Fuel pump positive, red
WARNING!!! PLEASE NOTE: if your wiring is different, or touching the wrong wire terminal could fry your PCM Computer or more... proceed at your own risk.
Since I'm getting no fuel pressure at all...
I put my digital volt meter + on pin 9, - on pin 2, turn the key to run position and see voltage. That tells me that I have a ground, and my fuse, relay, and inertia switch are all working.
Turn off the switch and make 2 little jumper wires.
With it still unplugged from the Fuel Pump Module, jump pin 2 ground, to pin 3 fuel pump ground
Also jump pin 9 switched battery positive to pin 10 fuel pump positive
Watch the fuel pressure gauge, and turn the switch to the run position for 2 seconds
If you see normal pressure, the fuel pump module is bad. If you don't see any pressure on the fuel pressure gauge (actually it should be 40-50psi, the fuel pump is bad.
In my case, I didn't see any pressure on the gauge, not even a movement of the needle; so I'll be replacing the fuel pump.
Thanks guys!
#6
Great write up
Dropping the fuel tank is not that hard.
I have a thread somewhere on how to do it (you can change the Diff oil at the same time)
found the thread
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...al-how-143763/
also I got just the fuel pump for around $110 shipped a lot cheaper than getting the complete unit around $600
Dropping the fuel tank is not that hard.
I have a thread somewhere on how to do it (you can change the Diff oil at the same time)
found the thread
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...al-how-143763/
also I got just the fuel pump for around $110 shipped a lot cheaper than getting the complete unit around $600
#7
I have my new fuel pump, and my old fuel pump is easily accessible but everyone speaks of turning a metal ring counter clockwise to pull the fuel pump out... and I don't see a metal ring. I only see a white plastic ring as which has little tabs that push into the cogs in the side of the fuel pump cover. I've looked very carefully all the way around and don't see anything metal.
Can someone shed some light on where the metal ring is at and how I get to it to turn it counter clockwise?
Thanks!
Dan
White plastic ring under the pump with plastic tabs that go into the sprocket around the fuel pump.
Can someone shed some light on where the metal ring is at and how I get to it to turn it counter clockwise?
Thanks!
Dan
White plastic ring under the pump with plastic tabs that go into the sprocket around the fuel pump.
Trending Topics
#8
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,381
Likes: 0
Received 3,887 Likes
on
3,194 Posts
Don, from my experiences with fuel tanks, that white ring with the ribs is what you need to turn to free the fuel pump. You will need to disconnect the hoses more than likely and you are going to remove the fuel pump/level sensor assembly. I find a wooden dowel (say 3/8" in diameter) and a hammer work good in loosening the ring. You can cut the dowel at a slight angle and then brace it against a rib. From there, you can use a hammer and tap the ring loose.
#9
I’m having the same issue can’t remove it??
Im having the same issues the ring won’t turn it has those 3 tabs what do I do too remove the ring?? Thanks
I have my new fuel pump, and my old fuel pump is easily accessible but everyone speaks of turning a metal ring counter clockwise to pull the fuel pump out... and I don't see a metal ring. I only see a white plastic ring as which has little tabs that push into the cogs in the side of the fuel pump cover. I've looked very carefully all the way around and don't see anything metal.
Can someone shed some light on where the metal ring is at and how I get to it to turn it counter clockwise?
Thanks!
Dan
White plastic ring under the pump with plastic tabs that go into the sprocket around the fuel pump.
Can someone shed some light on where the metal ring is at and how I get to it to turn it counter clockwise?
Thanks!
Dan
White plastic ring under the pump with plastic tabs that go into the sprocket around the fuel pump.
#10
There are people who say they've used various "chisels" of wood etc. To get the ring to turn. When I did mine, all I did was break the tabs. So.....I bought the correct ring removal tool and out it came. Tool number is in my post =
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-today-205696/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-today-205696/
The following users liked this post:
Aarcuda (10-21-2020)
#11
I used a rubber head hammer, and a wooden stick, from a broom do not hit the same spot twice, keep moving the stick between the markers on the ring, it is hard to move at first, and it is HARDER to put back, it took me ages to install it back, and there is a silicon gasket under the ring, make sure you wash it right after if any gas comes in contact with it, mine extended by 1 cm and would not be back on, and that was the reason for the hard work trying to put it back on, again, wash it and dry it so you can use it again, if your new pump comes with the gasket, then you are fine, mark where the ring is before you take it out, so you do not over tighten it, and good luck.
#12
Does anyone have a source for the wiring diagram for my wife's '05 S Type V6? All the previous posts are very interesting and informative but obviously do not apply to our problem. To start with, I'd like to know which relay powers the fuel pump. Somewhere I saw Relay 15 mentioned but doubt that it was for our model/year.. Appreciate very much any advice.
Al Hansen
Al Hansen
#13
#14
#16
I don't drive the car or at least not when my wife has had the problem. Never had the problem at home so I could see it.but she says engine turns over but does not start. Turning key off, waiting a moment then car starts normally. Not intermittent any longer. Car is in garage at home and will not start. I suspected fuel problem so removed rear seat and fuel pump cover. Can not hear pump running. .I'd like to eliminate relay or control unit before replacing pump but cannot find a diagram that tells me which controls pump. Thanks for any help.
#17
Al, you have an S-Type. This is the X-Type forum. Check on this forum: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ed-v8-x200-15/. Then look in teh Sticky Section at the top of the page, you might be able to find the wiring diagrams in there or else search in that forum to see if the information might be in one of the threads on there. But, there is probably a 99% chance you will end up changing the fuel pump. Good luck!
#18
#19
Hey guys wondering if you guys could help me
Great! I pulled the back seat out and located the Fuel Pump control modules as Paul described, as well as the big rubber plug on the passenger's side under the seat, above the tank with the connection to the fuel pump.
I did find the video on youtube to cut the hole, and as a former sunroof/t-top installer, cutting the hole will be nothing and I can put it back sealed up and pretty very easily.
Chris, my particular year doesn't have the shrader valve, I've seen what you're talking about but they didn't manufacture it with one. Nevertheless, it's 0 psi key on or off.
So I found a wiring diagram with extensive online searching which shows the pinout on the fuel pump module. This makes troubleshooting terribly easy. Check this out...
Unplug the fuel pump module.
Turn it facing you where the top row has 6 wires, and the bottom row has 2 on left, 2 on right.
Top row is pins 1-6 from left to right
Bottom row is pins 7-10 from left to right
Pin 1, PCM input, brown
Pin 2, Ground to body, black
Pin 3, Fuel pump ground, yellow
Pin 4, Throttle screen, black/green
Pin 5, Fuel pump screen, white
Pin 6,
Pin 7, PCM output, white
Pin 8,
Pin 9, Switched battery positive, brown/green
Pin 10, Fuel pump positive, red
WARNING!!! PLEASE NOTE: if your wiring is different, or touching the wrong wire terminal could fry your PCM Computer or more... proceed at your own risk.
Since I'm getting no fuel pressure at all...
I put my digital volt meter + on pin 9, - on pin 2, turn the key to run position and see voltage. That tells me that I have a ground, and my fuse, relay, and inertia switch are all working.
Turn off the switch and make 2 little jumper wires.
With it still unplugged from the Fuel Pump Module, jump pin 2 ground, to pin 3 fuel pump ground
Also jump pin 9 switched battery positive to pin 10 fuel pump positive
Watch the fuel pressure gauge, and turn the switch to the run position for 2 seconds
If you see normal pressure, the fuel pump module is bad. If you don't see any pressure on the fuel pressure gauge (actually it should be 40-50psi, the fuel pump is bad.
In my case, I didn't see any pressure on the gauge, not even a movement of the needle; so I'll be replacing the fuel pump.
Thanks guys!
I did find the video on youtube to cut the hole, and as a former sunroof/t-top installer, cutting the hole will be nothing and I can put it back sealed up and pretty very easily.
Chris, my particular year doesn't have the shrader valve, I've seen what you're talking about but they didn't manufacture it with one. Nevertheless, it's 0 psi key on or off.
So I found a wiring diagram with extensive online searching which shows the pinout on the fuel pump module. This makes troubleshooting terribly easy. Check this out...
Unplug the fuel pump module.
Turn it facing you where the top row has 6 wires, and the bottom row has 2 on left, 2 on right.
Top row is pins 1-6 from left to right
Bottom row is pins 7-10 from left to right
Pin 1, PCM input, brown
Pin 2, Ground to body, black
Pin 3, Fuel pump ground, yellow
Pin 4, Throttle screen, black/green
Pin 5, Fuel pump screen, white
Pin 6,
Pin 7, PCM output, white
Pin 8,
Pin 9, Switched battery positive, brown/green
Pin 10, Fuel pump positive, red
WARNING!!! PLEASE NOTE: if your wiring is different, or touching the wrong wire terminal could fry your PCM Computer or more... proceed at your own risk.
Since I'm getting no fuel pressure at all...
I put my digital volt meter + on pin 9, - on pin 2, turn the key to run position and see voltage. That tells me that I have a ground, and my fuse, relay, and inertia switch are all working.
Turn off the switch and make 2 little jumper wires.
With it still unplugged from the Fuel Pump Module, jump pin 2 ground, to pin 3 fuel pump ground
Also jump pin 9 switched battery positive to pin 10 fuel pump positive
Watch the fuel pressure gauge, and turn the switch to the run position for 2 seconds
If you see normal pressure, the fuel pump module is bad. If you don't see any pressure on the fuel pressure gauge (actually it should be 40-50psi, the fuel pump is bad.
In my case, I didn't see any pressure on the gauge, not even a movement of the needle; so I'll be replacing the fuel pump.
Thanks guys!
i have a 04 jaguar xtype 3.0 and I pump a new pump in and a new fuel pump module and the car still won’t start n I still have no fuel pressure anyway you can help me out would be awesome