no high beams on xenons,self levelers dont work
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,425
Likes: 0
Received 3,910 Likes
on
3,212 Posts
#4
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,425
Likes: 0
Received 3,910 Likes
on
3,212 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
bbexotics, looking at the diagrams, it would appear that you have 2 separate problems unless both plugs on your headlights are working themselves loose at the same time.
So, lets start with the high beams. What I want you to do is to turn on your low beams and also your fog lights. Now, flick on your high beams. Step outside of the car. Did your fog lights go out? If no, then you have either a bad relay (swap with another relay of the same ratings and retry, if the problem is gone, replace the initial relay, if the problem is still there, let me know). If the fog lights went out, then check fuses F85 and F86 under the dash. If those fuses are good, then you are most likely looking at 2 bad bulbs. IT is possible that it is a grounding issue, but that can be verified by doing a voltage check with the high beams on between the black wire (pin #10 on the headlight plug) and ground. If you are getting anything over 0.5 VDC on this check, upgrading of the ground wire is needed. You can also verify that you are getting 12 VDC to the high beams by measuring from Pin #1 on the headlight plug to ground. 12 VDC should be present when the high beams are engaged. If the fog lights go out but you don't have 12 VDC, then replace the high beam/fog light relay and see if the lights come back. It is possible you simply have a bad relay.
Now, for the autoleveling. At the headlight plug, locate pin #2. Connect your multimeter to pin #2 and ground. With the headlights off, you should be seeing the multimeter wandering around a little bit (normally stays under about 0.5 VDC, but the numbers will be moving around on a digital multimeter). Now, turn on the low beams. Does the multimeter go to a steady voltage under 0.5 VDC? If yes, then you are looking at a computer/sensor issue and this will require professional help. If the voltage is up around 12 VDC (above 10.0 VDC), then your headlight switch is bad. This can be confirmed by doing a resistance check between pin #2 and pin #6 with the headlight switch in any position other than off (should read less than 5 ohms). If the headlight switch is good, then you have a bad wire between the headlights and the headlight switch. Unless you are good with wiring, it will be worth your while to take the car to a shop and have them find the broken wire and fix.
If you need more help, let me know.
So, lets start with the high beams. What I want you to do is to turn on your low beams and also your fog lights. Now, flick on your high beams. Step outside of the car. Did your fog lights go out? If no, then you have either a bad relay (swap with another relay of the same ratings and retry, if the problem is gone, replace the initial relay, if the problem is still there, let me know). If the fog lights went out, then check fuses F85 and F86 under the dash. If those fuses are good, then you are most likely looking at 2 bad bulbs. IT is possible that it is a grounding issue, but that can be verified by doing a voltage check with the high beams on between the black wire (pin #10 on the headlight plug) and ground. If you are getting anything over 0.5 VDC on this check, upgrading of the ground wire is needed. You can also verify that you are getting 12 VDC to the high beams by measuring from Pin #1 on the headlight plug to ground. 12 VDC should be present when the high beams are engaged. If the fog lights go out but you don't have 12 VDC, then replace the high beam/fog light relay and see if the lights come back. It is possible you simply have a bad relay.
Now, for the autoleveling. At the headlight plug, locate pin #2. Connect your multimeter to pin #2 and ground. With the headlights off, you should be seeing the multimeter wandering around a little bit (normally stays under about 0.5 VDC, but the numbers will be moving around on a digital multimeter). Now, turn on the low beams. Does the multimeter go to a steady voltage under 0.5 VDC? If yes, then you are looking at a computer/sensor issue and this will require professional help. If the voltage is up around 12 VDC (above 10.0 VDC), then your headlight switch is bad. This can be confirmed by doing a resistance check between pin #2 and pin #6 with the headlight switch in any position other than off (should read less than 5 ohms). If the headlight switch is good, then you have a bad wire between the headlights and the headlight switch. Unless you are good with wiring, it will be worth your while to take the car to a shop and have them find the broken wire and fix.
If you need more help, let me know.
#5
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MC36
US Lower Atlantic
0
09-01-2015 07:34 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)