no reverse lights
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slowrider, welcome to the forums. I think you will find a lot of good information here. So, cruise the forums, take a look around, enjoy a cup of Joe and go from there.
As for your questions, what year car are we dealing with here? There are some changes that have been made over the years the X-Type was made. Let me know and I will step you through getting this fixed. I would first check to see that you have good bulbs in the rear first. That is the most likely of issues. Next, does your backup sensors work?
On a more light hearted note, what part of VA? I'm just east of VA in the southern part of MD. I'm always willing to work on cars. Also, keep an eye out for events coming up. Never know when something is going to pop up and a few of the members are going to get together to do something.
As for your questions, what year car are we dealing with here? There are some changes that have been made over the years the X-Type was made. Let me know and I will step you through getting this fixed. I would first check to see that you have good bulbs in the rear first. That is the most likely of issues. Next, does your backup sensors work?
On a more light hearted note, what part of VA? I'm just east of VA in the southern part of MD. I'm always willing to work on cars. Also, keep an eye out for events coming up. Never know when something is going to pop up and a few of the members are going to get together to do something.
#3
no reverse lites
My XType is a (02 sport 2.5), I'm in Suffolk, Va., 25 miles from Va. Bch. Your questions, I did replace the bulbs and I looked for a fuse, that I can't find, My back up sensors when last checked worked, at the Dealership, The mention of a body control module in the trunk area, may be bad?
Thank you for your help with this.
Slowrider
Thank you for your help with this.
Slowrider
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Slowrider, I know Suffolk all too well. My brother lives there and I used to live in Norfolk a few years back.
The problem with the backup sensors will not take out the backup lights, but it does narrow things down some. First, check fuse F79 (10 amp) in the dash. Make sure that is good. Then next check fuse F94 (20 amp) under the dash. Either one of these blowing will cause all the symptoms that you are seeing. Next, under the dash, locate relays R15 and R17 (both of them are the small relays there). Swap their locations. Does your back up sensors and reverse lights work now? If yes, you have a bad relay, replace the relay. If no, test your headlights, do they work. If yes, then you have a wiring issue with the car, let me know and I will give you some wires to check. If no, then that is confirming that you atleast have a bad relay and possibly some other issues. Let me know and I will give you some more checks to make to confirm what is good and what isn't.
Let me know how good you are with a multimeter. That will help me decide the easiest path for you to get your car back to 100%.
The problem with the backup sensors will not take out the backup lights, but it does narrow things down some. First, check fuse F79 (10 amp) in the dash. Make sure that is good. Then next check fuse F94 (20 amp) under the dash. Either one of these blowing will cause all the symptoms that you are seeing. Next, under the dash, locate relays R15 and R17 (both of them are the small relays there). Swap their locations. Does your back up sensors and reverse lights work now? If yes, you have a bad relay, replace the relay. If no, test your headlights, do they work. If yes, then you have a wiring issue with the car, let me know and I will give you some wires to check. If no, then that is confirming that you atleast have a bad relay and possibly some other issues. Let me know and I will give you some more checks to make to confirm what is good and what isn't.
Let me know how good you are with a multimeter. That will help me decide the easiest path for you to get your car back to 100%.
#6
Thermo,
Thank you for the trouble shooting lesson, however after removing and replacing fuses 79 and 94, still no reverse lites and swaping out the relays R15 and R17, I still have no reverse lites or back up sensors, like possibly a wiring issue,
a down 02 X-Type Sport
I'm not good with a multimeter, can follow instructions,
Thanks,
"Slowrider"
Thank you for the trouble shooting lesson, however after removing and replacing fuses 79 and 94, still no reverse lites and swaping out the relays R15 and R17, I still have no reverse lites or back up sensors, like possibly a wiring issue,
a down 02 X-Type Sport
I'm not good with a multimeter, can follow instructions,
Thanks,
"Slowrider"
#7
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Slowrider, Please follow these specifically. That way we don't go down a wild goose chase for no reason at all. First, I want you to make a small jumper wire using some wire that is about 6" long that is bent into a tight U (about 1/2" apart on the two uprights). Strip back about 1/4" of wire on each end.
Now, remove relay R17. If you look on the relay, you should see the numbers 1 through 5. These should relate to the pins on the relay. I want you to locate pins 3 and 5 and then locate those same spots in the open hole where the relay was. You are going to install the jumper wire between those two spots in a moment.
Insert your key and turn the car to the RUN position (motor can be running or not, doesn't matter). Now, insert the jumper wire to pins 3 and 5. Does your backup lights come on? If yes, then we know the wiring for the back up lights is good. This therefore says the problem lies in the control circuit. See below.
If the backup lights did not light, I want you to set the multimeter to the "VDC" setting and then hold the black lead to any metal part on the underside of the dash. Now, touch the red lead to the 5 pin. Do you see 12 VDC (or more) on the multimeter? If no, then let me know as this most likely is a fuse box issue. If you do get 12 VDC, remove the red lead and move it over to the top of fuse F79. If you look closely, you will see 2 metal spots there. I want you to touch each spot (one at a time) and note the voltage. If you get 12 VDC on both spots, then you have a wiring issue between the back of the car and the fuse box (double check that you don't have 2 bad bulbs). If you don't get 12 VDC on either spot, then you have a fuse box issue. If you get 12 VDC on one side and not the other, then you have a bad fuse, replace the fuse.
If you have a control issue, I want you to set the e-brake, have the motor off, but the key in the RUN position (preferable to block the tires too, but not absolutely necessary), and remove the jumper wire. With the black lead still touching the metal underside of the dash, touch the red lead to the 1 pin location in the fuse box. Do you have 12 VDC? If no, then you are looking at a fuse box issue. If you do have 12 VDC, then place the car in "REVERSE" and move the red lead over to pin 2 and also install a resistor (200 ohm or higher) between pins 1 and 2. Do you see less than 0.5 VDC? If yes, then this confirms you have a bad relay. If you see more than 0.5 VDC, then your problem is internal to the instrument cluster or with the J-Gate shifter. Unfortunately, without the use of expensive test equipment, you will not be able to troubleshoot this. At this point, you are stuck going to a shop to get this fixed.
if you need more info, let me know. I will tell you everything I know.
Now, remove relay R17. If you look on the relay, you should see the numbers 1 through 5. These should relate to the pins on the relay. I want you to locate pins 3 and 5 and then locate those same spots in the open hole where the relay was. You are going to install the jumper wire between those two spots in a moment.
Insert your key and turn the car to the RUN position (motor can be running or not, doesn't matter). Now, insert the jumper wire to pins 3 and 5. Does your backup lights come on? If yes, then we know the wiring for the back up lights is good. This therefore says the problem lies in the control circuit. See below.
If the backup lights did not light, I want you to set the multimeter to the "VDC" setting and then hold the black lead to any metal part on the underside of the dash. Now, touch the red lead to the 5 pin. Do you see 12 VDC (or more) on the multimeter? If no, then let me know as this most likely is a fuse box issue. If you do get 12 VDC, remove the red lead and move it over to the top of fuse F79. If you look closely, you will see 2 metal spots there. I want you to touch each spot (one at a time) and note the voltage. If you get 12 VDC on both spots, then you have a wiring issue between the back of the car and the fuse box (double check that you don't have 2 bad bulbs). If you don't get 12 VDC on either spot, then you have a fuse box issue. If you get 12 VDC on one side and not the other, then you have a bad fuse, replace the fuse.
If you have a control issue, I want you to set the e-brake, have the motor off, but the key in the RUN position (preferable to block the tires too, but not absolutely necessary), and remove the jumper wire. With the black lead still touching the metal underside of the dash, touch the red lead to the 1 pin location in the fuse box. Do you have 12 VDC? If no, then you are looking at a fuse box issue. If you do have 12 VDC, then place the car in "REVERSE" and move the red lead over to pin 2 and also install a resistor (200 ohm or higher) between pins 1 and 2. Do you see less than 0.5 VDC? If yes, then this confirms you have a bad relay. If you see more than 0.5 VDC, then your problem is internal to the instrument cluster or with the J-Gate shifter. Unfortunately, without the use of expensive test equipment, you will not be able to troubleshoot this. At this point, you are stuck going to a shop to get this fixed.
if you need more info, let me know. I will tell you everything I know.
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