Hello All-

New here but not new to owning Jaguars but im stumped and hoping someone can steer me in the right direction.
2004 Jaguar Xtype S 3.0lt A/T 115k miles Problems started after replacing battery (about 2 weeks ago) codes present are p1338 , p1637, p1643, p1699 No start, no crank Odometer shows no number just dashes ------- Will not shift out of park No voltage at the gear selector solenoid battery 12.6v 12v a large starter terminal 12v at ignition switch (incoming) and 12v at outgoing wire bypassed starter relay by jumping wire from ignition switch (outgoing wire) to small terminal at starter, engine cranks but will not start. Starter turned/sounded normal. Removed and Inspected both TCM and ECM harnesses and modules for moisture and corrosion. None present, very clean in fact. Have pulled and inspected all fuses in both boxes, found none blown removed brake sensor switch and ohmed it out, was good I have inspected wiring harness both under dash and in ebgine bay to the best of my abilities, have not fond anything obvious. Does not seem to be a key/fob communication issue Thats all I can remember at the moment

Thank you Gus

 

Gus, welcome to the Forums. Lots of good information here. Lots of friendly people too (uncommon these days). I think you will find this place to be refreshing to find stuff about your car and in general to just hang out. BUt, to help with this, we like to get to know one another and as part of this we ask that you stop by the New Member section and give a quick intro about yourself and your car. This will give us a chance to get to know you and you will learn who the movers and shakers are around here. Some people here have probaby forgotten more information about these cars than you can think about learning.

As for your problem, the big thing we need to know is whether you have an "early" X-type, or the "face-lifted" X-type. The wiring for these 2 cars is different and I don't want to send you on a wild goose chase because I am thinking one thing and you have another. This cross-over occurred in March 2004. If you are not sure when you car was made, open the driver's door and it will tell you the build month and year. If you have a car built on/before March 2004, you have the early style car. If it is April 2004 or later, then you have the facelifted vehicle. Please let us know what you have.

As for your problem, I think the big give away here is the ODO indicating "------". THis is telling me that the ODO is not getting information. I don't have the codes in front of me (will look them up here soon), But, this pretty much limits things to 1 of 3 things. You either have: 1) failed instrument cluster, 2) a failed ECU, or 3) the CAN bus between the instrument cluster and the ECU is damaged. With this being said, have you had any work done in the interior of the car recently? If so, did this problem start almost immediately afterwards? What work was done? I would start with a detailed inspection of the wiring harness in that area. That is your most likely location of your problem. The other question I have is when you go to start the car, if you look down at the center console, there is a red light there. Does that light up when you have the key in the START position? If yes, then your security system is engaging and that is preventing the ECU from giving out the crank signal to the starter. This could be caused by any of the 3 items I listed.

I am going to look up the codes you provided and see if that helps me get to an answer for you. YOu seem like you know your way around electronics. If this is not the case, let me know. i am going to base on troublehooting on what I think you can (not) do.

 

 

Hi Thermo-

Nice to meet you and thank you for your response. The cars manufactured date as printed on the door tag is 01/04 so I assume this makes it the "early" x-type. Other than a recent oil change (which I do myself) and replacing the battery there has been no recent work to the car and has been running excellent. Regarding the red light on the center console, when the key is turned to the start position the light illuminates (solid red) momentarily (2-3 seconds) then turns off and stays off.

Thank you again
Gus

 

GusE, well, seeing what Dell posted, the only common component between the 4 codes is the ECU. Not a hard repair, but you will either need a shop to do some programming for you or you wlil need to obtain an SDD computer to do the necessary reprogramming. Unfortunaely, the ECU has part of the security system in it and it needs to know the key codes in order to allow the car to start. In your case, it is sounding like the CAN bus input to the ECU is having issues and is not communicating like it needs to. hopefully there is enough connectivity that you can pull the key codes out. Otherwise, you wlil need to reprogram the keys to the car.

 

Thermo-

After looking at what Dell provided (Thank you Dell!) I would agree that it seems the ECU is the culprit. But I just want to make sure I understand everything correctly, as I have limited understanding of computers and programming. Once I have the ECU repaired does it need to be programmed twice? Once for the ECU itself and once for the security system? Or is it an all-inclusive programming and that is done once? Also, you say "hopefully there is enough connectivity that you can pull the key codes out" are the key codes pulled out by the ECU repair shop or ??? I will start looking on the Forum for ECU repair shops but if you can recommend or direct me to the proper place to look on this Forum it would be appreciated.

Thank you
Gus

 

Call some repair places and ask. Some places I've seen ask for the ECU and ALL keys be sent to them others not. Internet search will return companies that do the work. There is also a thread in this forum that a member posted a while back with several good companies and explanations after a pretty exhaustive search.

Example =
https://moduleexperts.com/ecm-rebuil...hoCExoQAvD_BwE

 

GusE, when you program the ECU, it is s one and done thing. You program the whole thing. You don't do pieces. So, it will be a single program that occurs. As for a shop needing the keys or not, it really depends on how much information that they can get out of the old computer. If they can get the VIN and key information out of the old computer, then no keys are required. Tey can't get that, then they need to do have the keys so they can use the keys during the programming. That is where you are going to need to find a shop that will do what you are after and see what they say. Some shops may want all the keys just in case. Granted, if you were wanting a 3rd key, now is the time.

 

Hey All-

So... I got a bug in me this evening and I started messing around with the car. I decided to check for voltage at the datalink connector. While probing the various ports, several of the accessories started working (I either had left them om or inadvertently turned them on) I looked at the instrument cluster and the odometer dashes - - - - - had changed back to numbers. Turned the key and the car fired right up and ran normally. I'm assuming that while probing the datalink connector it jostled loose a short within the connector. Ill investigate further tomorrow as its begun to get dark here and we've had a 100-degree day. I'm cautiously optimistic that this might be my problem. My question is... if there was/is a short in the connector, would this have caused my original symptoms/problem? Particularly, making it look like an ECU issue ?

Thank you
Gus

 

GusE, it could. If you shorted out the CAN bus, then no data can transfer to/from the various computers. The first thing the car needs to see is information come from the instrument cluster to the ECU to say "Yes, I have the correct key, start the car". There is also a finite amount of data that comes from the ECU to the instrument cluster such is the ODO number..

 

And Don't forget it checks with the CCM as well.

 

Hello All-

Just an update. Yesterday I removed the datalink connector from its bracket and had a closer inspection. There was no solid evidence that showed a possible short within it. So at this point, I'm not as confident that that was my problem but it did seem very suspect. Having said that, i drove the car for about a half hour yesterday, it ran normally. Everything works as it should, a/c, windows, sunroof, head lights, wipers, radio, etc. And there were no trouble codes that popped up. Also, while the car was running in the driveway, I tried jiggling the wires in the connector to see if I could recreate the problem but I was unsuccessful. It's just seems like the problem is a short , if not at the datalink connector then somewhere. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Hello All -

Wanted to update my situation in hopes it may help someone else. In late July '22 I removed the ECM and sent it in for a diagnostic , I was notified that it was operating correctly and no work was needed $80 total) I decided it was time to take the car to Jaguar for a diagnosis. After 3 hours of diagnosing they found that a "non-sercvicable" ignition relay within the engine compartment fuse box had failed and therfore the entire fusebox would need replacing at a cost of $1400. I decided to gamble and went to the junkyard and pulled a fusebox off of a donor car for $30.After bypassing the realy by jumping fuses (see pic), I was able to get the car home in limp mode from the dealership (i must say, the Jag dealership in Lakewood Colorado was outstanding!). I swapped out the fusebox and ...knock wood ...so far so good (about 2 weeks now) . Anyways, hope this can help someone else out there.

 

I'm having the exact same problem but with me i crashed it wasn't bad so I replaced the fan radiator n the condenser the car was driving good then it over heated on didn't bow the heads I drove it after that the next day I tried to turn it on notnit didn't do nothing I went to 15 different mechanics no one want to touch it the dealer don't touch nothing under 2012 I have a 02 xtype 2.5

 

First thought.....Check and reset your inertia switch - front right foot well, there is a finger hole in the A pillar cover that lets you press the switch.

 

Already did didn't work

 

Bumping an old thread, as my 2003 X-Type 2.5, 5 speed manual is exhibiting similar behavior more often now. The ODO dashes out and the car won't start. Sometimes while driving the entire instrument cluster goes into "Red Lights" mode and all gauges go to 0. Banging on the dash the instrument cluster might bring it back to life. I know if this happens and I shut it off, the car won't start. I've been able to recover it by disconnecting the battery.

Obviously, I suspect the instrument cluster or associated connections/wiring is at fault. I've pulled the cluster out, and am in the process of taking it apart. Connections look fine.

Any thoughts?

 

cujet, I would place money on the large connector at the center of the instrument cluster has some broken solder joints and those are making and breaking connection. If you look at the solder joints, if you see a little black ring that runs around the lead in the center, that would be the crack in the solder. I would also do a look at the pins in that connector to make sure all the pins are a nice silver color. If not, they need to be cleaned to ensure a good connection.

 

hi i noticed that the thread is already few years ago, but i have a same issue with one of our x type in our shop which has the same issue no start no crank. upon checking the red light on the coin holder is not blinking when i insert the key, and even the buttons on the remote on those 2 keys are not working, even if i reset it via position 2 and 3 on the ignition switch. i heard a beep but when pressing the buttons nothing happens. then i notice that the ground provided by the ECU to the starter relay is has no connection, i tried jumping the negative from the relay through the battery then tried firing it up, and yes it rotates but the engine is not firing. and when i remove the jumper cable to the battery ground, it wont rotate again, any ideas fellas?

 

Thanks for the response!

I just screwed up the instrument cluster, ugh, haha. Looking at its circuit board, there was clearly a white film of evaporated water on the inner side of the circuit board. Probably from two decades of Florida humidity and airconditioning causing moisture to condense on it. So I pulled the needles off with two spoons in the normal manner, to gain access to the side of the circuit board that needed cleaning. The temp and speedo needles were stuck and the needle's metal rods pulled out of the servo.UGH.

I have a Nikon stereo microscope and spent time cleaning the circuit board and connectors, testing conductivity and inspecting. No cracked solder joints, but plenty of salty-looking crust between surface mount components. Cleaned the ABS connectors too and reassembled.

The good news is that it seems to have helped at least for the last two drives. The car no longer sets off the alarm when I open the door, the ABS light is out and the ODO is no longer dashed out. Could still be a cracked solder joint somewhere that I missed. I did not have time to reflow them.

Anyway, I'd like a working dash. Is the proper course of action to purchase a used instrument cluster and have it programmed? Or are they plug n play? Car has 230,000+ miles on it, still runs great and remains fun to drive with the 5 speed manual and responsive engine.