Hello. Faced a problem. The car will not start. I got such errors. What to do ?!

 

Jan, when you say that the car will not start, are you saying that you turn the key and nothing happens or do you turn the key and the engine rolls over, but will not come up to idle?

Based on the number of errors that you are getting, I am venturing to guess that you are not getting any response from the engine. If this is the case, then I would say to attempt to start the car, but look down at the center console. Do you see a red light lit there? If so, your no start condition is a problem with the theft system (should also get a message saying something to the effect of "Theft immbilization" or the like on the info center (center of the instrument cluster at the bottom).

From what I can tell, you have a damaged communications link between 2 computers (most likely between the A/C module and the ECU/ECM. Has someone been doing some work inside the car by chance?

Lets start here and see what we can figure out.

 

Thermo, his post to other thread, you were on target

 

The red button is off. The engine is spinning.

 

[QUOTE = Dell Gailey; 2167603] Thermo, его сообщение в другой теме, вы были в цель

[/ QUOTE]
After I made the climate control unit, I went about two weeks and everything was fine.

 

Jan, try this, when starting the car, turn the ignition key to the RUN position (not START), let it set there for a few seconds (you should hear the fuel pump run for a second and then stop). After the few seconds, now turn the key to the START position. Did the car start now? If yes, ten you have a fuel pump that is starting to go. You can sometimes give the underside of the fuel tank a good smack and that willl cause the fuel pump to run for a bit longer. If you don't hear the fuel pump, then this would be confirming you either have a failed fuel pump or something in the control circuit for the fuel pump is bad.

I would still pull the radio back out and check the wiring there. It is possible that you have a plug that came undone or a bit of the wiring has gotten pinched and is now damaged.
If you still have not found a problem, the next step will be to spray some starting fluid into the intake and then attempt to start the car. If it starts then, this would confirm a fuel pump issue. If the car still does not start, then we are looking at an electronic issue most likely and need to know how you are with a multimeter.

 

[QUOTE = Thermo; 2167788] Ян, попробуйте это, при запуске автомобиля поверните ключ зажигания в положение RUN (не START), дайте ему установить его на несколько секунд (вы должны услышать, как топливный насос работает в течение секунды и тогда остановись). Через несколько секунд поверните ключ в положение СТАРТ. Машина началась сейчас? Если да, десять, у вас есть топливный насос, который начинает работать. Иногда вы можете придать нижней части топливного бака хороший привкус, и это заставит топливный насос работать дольше. Если вы не слышите топливный насос, это будет означать, что у вас неисправный топливный насос или что-то в цепи управления топливным насосом неисправно.

Я бы все равно вытащил радио обратно и проверил там проводку. Возможно, вы отсоединили штепсельную вилку, или часть проводки защемилась и теперь повреждена.
Если проблема все еще не обнаружена, следующим шагом будет распыление пусковой жидкости во впускной канал, а затем попытка завести автомобиль. Если это начнется тогда, это подтвердит проблему топливного насоса. Если машина по-прежнему не заводится, то мы, скорее всего, смотрим на электронную проблему и должны знать, как у вас с мультиметром. [/ QUOTE]
Where is the fuel pump control unit located?

 

​​​​​​.fuel pomp module, fuel pump working.

 

Jan, the fuel pump module is on top of the fuel tank. So, to get to it, you need to drop the fuel tank.

Just so I am clear asa to what happened with the previous check. Are you saying that you can hear the fuel pump running, but the car is still not firing and coming to idle? Did you try using some starting fluid to get an initial firing of the engine? When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? It should be changed every 15K miles (25,000 KM).

 

No fuel rail pressure.

 

Jan, if you have no fuel rail pressure, then it can be but only 3 things. I would start with the easiest and replace the fuel filter. This is a $15 USD part and takes all of about 20 minutes to replace. After that, odds are, even though you are hearing the fuel pump run, the fuel pump is bad and you will need to replace that. The last part that could be failed is the fuel rail itself. Highly unlikely, but there is always a first.

Another check you can do to confirm the fuel pump is bad is to get yourself a pressure gauge that can go up to say 100 psig. As you are doing the fuel filter, you can connect the up stream side of the fuel filter to the fuel pump and then using a hose clamp, connect the pressure gauge to the downstream side of the fuel filter. You can then trn the key to the RUN position and listen to the fuel pump. You should hear it run and then after a second or two, start changing sounds (it is building up pressure and having to work harder). You should then be able to get out and see the pressure gauge up at some pressure. You can use a second person to watch the pressure gauge as you operate the key. If you see the pressure rise slightly (say to 20 psig) and then just stay there, then this would confirm a bad fuel pump. Kinda like if you see the pressure build up and as soon as you turn off the car, the pressure falls right back to 0 psig, this would also confirm a bad fuel pump.

 

Как я и предполагал умер топливный насос.

 

Translation =As I expected, the fuel pump died

As Thermo had surmised. :-) :-) :-)

 

Yes!

 

Thermo, to pick up on this thread about x-type not starting...
I am having difficulty troubleshooting a similar no start with my 2007 x-type 3.0 with 97,000 miles. I suspect a bad fuel pump as a result of the ethanol crude resulting from the car sitting for 4 months with less than 1/4 tank (May have gotten below 32 degrees F). I've added gas and an ethanol treatment. The engine will start and shortly run on starter fluid. Not equipped at this time to check fuel pressure. I do not hear the fuel pump upon initial key engagement. Fuel filter replaced at 70,000 miles.
However, my other primary issue seems to be that the 20 amp fuse F17 Fuel pump driver module and relay keeps blowing (I start engine with starting fluid and upon second try at engagement after the fluid is expended, it blows). This would indicate to me that I have a short or overload somewhere along the line. I would like to run direct power to the pump to check it's operation and bypass the ECM and F17. I'm not sure though where I can tap into the power line to the pump. Suggestions (wire location and color). But obviously the blown fuse has me greatly concerned it could be the ECM or the fuel pump relay, rather than a seized or burnt up fuel pump. Any troubleshooting assistance is appreciated. Would also appreciate the name of a good OCB code reader.
Thanks,
Squito

 

You can buy an inexpensive ELM for basic codes. If you want one that allows checking ANY Jaguar code, ability to manipulate relays, sensors, etc., my personal favorite is iCarSoft LrII. A slight step down is the i930.