O2 Sensor…
#1
06-09-2022, 05:16 AM
O2 Sensor…
I have removed the intake manifold (which was a major operation, for me) This I done to replace the lower O2 Sensor, from bank 1 on my 2003 Xtype, 2.1 automatic, which I was told “could” be the reason for the fault, Gearbox Fault, shows up on my dashboard, once the engine reaches normal running temperature. Once this happens, my car will not change gears, it seems to be locked in 4th gear. However, after buying the recommended tools for the job, the sensor seems to be seized, as I cannot remove it. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. 🥲 Docko
#2
06-09-2022, 03:44 PM
Veteran Member
Docko,
I have exactly the same job to do on mine.
Have the sensor and slotted O2 offset socket, just picking a time to strip it down to do it....possibly this weekend.
So I will be starting by applying some penetrating oil tonight and hopefully let it soak in for a day before attempting to remove.
I have been warned that they can seize, sometimes getting them out pulls the threads out of the nut as well.
If that happens then I am told you remove the catalytic converter and then weld a new nut in place.
I have exactly the same job to do on mine.
Have the sensor and slotted O2 offset socket, just picking a time to strip it down to do it....possibly this weekend.
So I will be starting by applying some penetrating oil tonight and hopefully let it soak in for a day before attempting to remove.
I have been warned that they can seize, sometimes getting them out pulls the threads out of the nut as well.
If that happens then I am told you remove the catalytic converter and then weld a new nut in place.
#3
06-09-2022, 07:27 PM
O2 sensor, bank 1.
Thank you h2o2steam, but the last thing I need is, even MORE problems. I’ve sprayed WD40 on it yesterday, so I’m hoping that it comes out now, but if it strips the threads, then that’s it for me. I’ll put the car up for sale, for parts, cancel the registration, and call it a day. It’s been the most troublesome, expensive, and the worst car I’ve ever owned. If it still refuses to come out today, I’ll accept failure, blame my old age, and put the tools away. I wish you every success with your car.
Docko
Docko
#4
06-09-2022, 09:17 PM
Veteran Member
Guess that is why I still have my 1963 Austin, which comes complete with a crank handle and not a piece of electronics anywhere in it.
If I blow a fuse....I just have to find which one of the four it might be.
If the nukes start flying - it will likely still start and run just fine.
Sorry you are having a bad run with your X-Type.
If I blow a fuse....I just have to find which one of the four it might be.
If the nukes start flying - it will likely still start and run just fine.
Sorry you are having a bad run with your X-Type.
#5
06-10-2022, 01:50 AM
O2 Sensor, bank 1 low…
O2 go…. We’ll I’ve FINALLY replaced the sensor, after spraying it again with WD40, (my absolute life saviour) because there was absolutely no movement of it, prior to that.
I have refitted the manifold, with a new set of gasket’s, lots of swearing, scratches, and hard work. Turned the key and away she runs, better than before, but I’ve decided to treat myself to several drinks at my local, and I’ll give it a good road test tomorrow, but irrespective, if she drives good, bad or just ok, it’s going up for sale, before it sends me totally broke. Hopefully, that REAL car (Austin) of yours, continues to give you good service.
Docko. 🤓👍🤓
I have refitted the manifold, with a new set of gasket’s, lots of swearing, scratches, and hard work. Turned the key and away she runs, better than before, but I’ve decided to treat myself to several drinks at my local, and I’ll give it a good road test tomorrow, but irrespective, if she drives good, bad or just ok, it’s going up for sale, before it sends me totally broke. Hopefully, that REAL car (Austin) of yours, continues to give you good service.
Docko. 🤓👍🤓
#6
06-10-2022, 09:35 PM
Veteran Member
Docko,
Glad to hear you got your sensor out and replaced.
I've set aside some tomorrow to take on mine now.
Any modern car can be a challenge, European models regardless of brand are always more intricate.
Good on you for seeing it through, and you should be proud of your efforts.
I do get a few odd looks if I dig the crank handle out to start the Austin, and it too takes quite a bit to keep it on the road.
I am well behind on maintenance on her and have a clutch job to do and numerous panel corners to work on before another respray and new window rubbers etc.
Glad to hear you got your sensor out and replaced.
I've set aside some tomorrow to take on mine now.
Any modern car can be a challenge, European models regardless of brand are always more intricate.
Good on you for seeing it through, and you should be proud of your efforts.
I do get a few odd looks if I dig the crank handle out to start the Austin, and it too takes quite a bit to keep it on the road.
I am well behind on maintenance on her and have a clutch job to do and numerous panel corners to work on before another respray and new window rubbers etc.
#7
06-10-2022, 11:37 PM
Trending Topics
#8
06-11-2022, 03:19 AM
Veteran Member
Hey Docko,
I actually got the opportunity to make a start on it late this afternoon. (I had given the sensor a quick burst of WD40 last night in preparation)
To be fair to you , I have had my intake manifold off twice before for other tasks (spark plug change and an inspection for air leaks), so I have that process down pat now and it only took about 20 minutes to get that disconnected and on the floor beside the car. Took off the rear flat sheet heatshield and had a better line of sight to the sensor. Gave it another quick burst of WD40 and left it soaking for another hour. Used some of that time to reinsert the brass bushing that spun out of the plastic lower intake manifold while removing one of the intake bolts....again not the first one I have had to refit.
Came back to the job and slipped the offset O2 sensor 22mm socket onto the sensor cable and guided it down onto the sensor. Two 4" extensions with a universal joint on the end and a short power bar and I had decent alignment and clearance to give it first a tweak. To my surprise it released immediately without any cursing and swearing.....phew.....couldn't believe my luck. Gotta love WD40 - just got to give it time to work.
Fitted new sensor and reassembled intake etc. Total job time including second burst soak time just on 2 hours.
Still have one intake bolt to install as I need to give the epoxy I used to reinsert the brass bushing at least 12 hours to cure.
Did however test start the car and make sure it idled and revved OK.
So far so good......will fit the remaining intake bolt tomorrow.
I did scrape the back of my left hand and drew a bit of blood......I think that is a right of passage for that job.
I actually got the opportunity to make a start on it late this afternoon. (I had given the sensor a quick burst of WD40 last night in preparation)
To be fair to you , I have had my intake manifold off twice before for other tasks (spark plug change and an inspection for air leaks), so I have that process down pat now and it only took about 20 minutes to get that disconnected and on the floor beside the car. Took off the rear flat sheet heatshield and had a better line of sight to the sensor. Gave it another quick burst of WD40 and left it soaking for another hour. Used some of that time to reinsert the brass bushing that spun out of the plastic lower intake manifold while removing one of the intake bolts....again not the first one I have had to refit.
Came back to the job and slipped the offset O2 sensor 22mm socket onto the sensor cable and guided it down onto the sensor. Two 4" extensions with a universal joint on the end and a short power bar and I had decent alignment and clearance to give it first a tweak. To my surprise it released immediately without any cursing and swearing.....phew.....couldn't believe my luck. Gotta love WD40 - just got to give it time to work.
Fitted new sensor and reassembled intake etc. Total job time including second burst soak time just on 2 hours.
Still have one intake bolt to install as I need to give the epoxy I used to reinsert the brass bushing at least 12 hours to cure.
Did however test start the car and make sure it idled and revved OK.
So far so good......will fit the remaining intake bolt tomorrow.
I did scrape the back of my left hand and drew a bit of blood......I think that is a right of passage for that job.
#11
06-13-2022, 12:07 AM
O2 Sensor… Gearbox Fault
O2O2steam
well my friend, I done all this work, hoping that it would solve my “Gearbox Fault” fault sign that comes up on my dashboard display, once the car reaches normal running temperature. Regrettably however, the fault reappeared after a test run yesterday, so that’s just another thing I’ve been advised to do, to repair my problem. The first thing I did was, buy a new battery, then as this didn’t solve the problem, I was told to replace the speed sensor on the rear wheel,,, but, as the problem reappeared once again, I was told it was the lower heater sensor, and the rest is history. Once this problem is solved, I will put the car up for sale. Docko
well my friend, I done all this work, hoping that it would solve my “Gearbox Fault” fault sign that comes up on my dashboard display, once the car reaches normal running temperature. Regrettably however, the fault reappeared after a test run yesterday, so that’s just another thing I’ve been advised to do, to repair my problem. The first thing I did was, buy a new battery, then as this didn’t solve the problem, I was told to replace the speed sensor on the rear wheel,,, but, as the problem reappeared once again, I was told it was the lower heater sensor, and the rest is history. Once this problem is solved, I will put the car up for sale. Docko
#12
06-13-2022, 01:25 AM
It sounds like you've had some poor advice on this, I've replaced all of the O2 sensors on mine over the years and none of them have ever given a gearbox fault warning. Has anyone read any fault codes that are stored? The only times I have had the gearbox warning was because of the sensor rings on the rear driveshafts, they rust away and either fall off or just fail to give a proper signal.
#13
06-13-2022, 02:38 AM
Gearbox Fault
Topanga …
I have fitted a new speed sensor to the right hand side rear wheel, but where exactly are the ones you are talking about fitted ? because both handbrake levers are seized and also need replacing. As you would know, they are open to the elements and a very poor design altogether, but then, there are so many things that in my opinion, are a shocker, of a design, on this Xtype 2.1, right hand drive 2003 Jaguar. But if you can be of any assistance with this Gearbox Fault I’m having, I would really appreciate it. Docko
I have fitted a new speed sensor to the right hand side rear wheel, but where exactly are the ones you are talking about fitted ? because both handbrake levers are seized and also need replacing. As you would know, they are open to the elements and a very poor design altogether, but then, there are so many things that in my opinion, are a shocker, of a design, on this Xtype 2.1, right hand drive 2003 Jaguar. But if you can be of any assistance with this Gearbox Fault I’m having, I would really appreciate it. Docko
#14
06-13-2022, 04:31 AM
Veteran Member
Hi Docko,
The reluctor rings that the wheel speed sensors read can be problematic, but I don't know if we (AUS and NZ) see as much failure of these with no salt on our roads like UK, US drivers see.
The car needs to get feedback from them to determine traction control anti-lock status and the feedback is also used by the ECM for driving your speedo.
Obviously speed feedback is one essential input for the ECM to provide feedback to the transmission control module for appropriate gear selection, along with throttle position, temperature sensors and environmental inputs.
But what is interesting with your issue (putting my thinking cap on for you) is the transmission locking up into 4th gear when engine and likely the transmission are hot.
Topanga is right....some error codes would certainly help define what might be triggering the issue.
My thought is that either you have some sticking shift solenoids, or a transmission control module that is malfunctioning.
I would initially set aside the TCM being the cause as that shouldn't be engine heat related.
I would be checking transmission mechanical operation....what are the Km's on this vehicle?
Have you ever done a trans fluid change on it? Don't try to find a trans dipstick...there isn't one.
When I dumped my trans fluid it was stinky dark grey sewer water from a trans that was 125,000Km old.
Measure the amount that drains out (probably about 3.5 - 4 litres each time) and put the same amount of new back in, start the car and move the trans while stationary from park, through reverse, neutral, drive and back to park within in a 15 second cycle and turn engine off.
Drop the trans fluid again, and you will find the new fluid will have moved through and brought more old fluid out of the pump and torque converter resulting in the dropped fluid being heavily discoloured again.
Measure that amount and refill the trans with same amount of new again.
You might need to do this procedure several times to get a cleaner final output.
You will probably need a skinny trans funnel from Supercheap ($4) and a piece of tubing to extend it down to reach the filler point below the left of the battery carrier (has a rubber stopper in filler point).
I used Penrite's Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic ATF-LV. (bought three 4L packs when it was on special for that task).
If the trans fluid is total crap then you will have rough unreliable changes....these transmissions are pretty darn smooth when they are happy.
If you have sticking solenoids, a clean fluid is the best place to start.
The reluctor rings that the wheel speed sensors read can be problematic, but I don't know if we (AUS and NZ) see as much failure of these with no salt on our roads like UK, US drivers see.
The car needs to get feedback from them to determine traction control anti-lock status and the feedback is also used by the ECM for driving your speedo.
Obviously speed feedback is one essential input for the ECM to provide feedback to the transmission control module for appropriate gear selection, along with throttle position, temperature sensors and environmental inputs.
But what is interesting with your issue (putting my thinking cap on for you) is the transmission locking up into 4th gear when engine and likely the transmission are hot.
Topanga is right....some error codes would certainly help define what might be triggering the issue.
My thought is that either you have some sticking shift solenoids, or a transmission control module that is malfunctioning.
I would initially set aside the TCM being the cause as that shouldn't be engine heat related.
I would be checking transmission mechanical operation....what are the Km's on this vehicle?
Have you ever done a trans fluid change on it? Don't try to find a trans dipstick...there isn't one.
When I dumped my trans fluid it was stinky dark grey sewer water from a trans that was 125,000Km old.
Measure the amount that drains out (probably about 3.5 - 4 litres each time) and put the same amount of new back in, start the car and move the trans while stationary from park, through reverse, neutral, drive and back to park within in a 15 second cycle and turn engine off.
Drop the trans fluid again, and you will find the new fluid will have moved through and brought more old fluid out of the pump and torque converter resulting in the dropped fluid being heavily discoloured again.
Measure that amount and refill the trans with same amount of new again.
You might need to do this procedure several times to get a cleaner final output.
You will probably need a skinny trans funnel from Supercheap ($4) and a piece of tubing to extend it down to reach the filler point below the left of the battery carrier (has a rubber stopper in filler point).
I used Penrite's Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic ATF-LV. (bought three 4L packs when it was on special for that task).
If the trans fluid is total crap then you will have rough unreliable changes....these transmissions are pretty darn smooth when they are happy.
If you have sticking solenoids, a clean fluid is the best place to start.
#15
06-13-2022, 07:05 AM
Gearbox Fault
O2O2steam
Thank you for all this information. It certainly locks up my spare time for the next few days. Because my handbrake linkages have totally seized up solid, I should really start on that area of the car, hence! please tell me their exact location on the rear axle. Also, when I order them, is there anything special I should say about them, like, is there a right side, and a left side ?? etc etc. But I really do appreciate that you have gone to all this trouble to help solve my problem… 🤓👍🤓
Thank you for all this information. It certainly locks up my spare time for the next few days. Because my handbrake linkages have totally seized up solid, I should really start on that area of the car, hence! please tell me their exact location on the rear axle. Also, when I order them, is there anything special I should say about them, like, is there a right side, and a left side ?? etc etc. But I really do appreciate that you have gone to all this trouble to help solve my problem… 🤓👍🤓
#16
06-13-2022, 11:49 AM
Docko, the sensor rings are fitted on the rear CV joints, where the joint slides into the hub. I bought mine off eBay. The problem I had with mine, was ABS and gearbox light on, it went into limp home mode and very jerky gear changes and when accelerating. When I checked the ring had rusted away and dropped off completely. The other side went not long after.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+RING&_sacat=0
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+RING&_sacat=0
#17
06-13-2022, 05:14 PM
Reluctor Rings / O2 Sensor
Many thanks for all your help. My ABS dashboard light is permanently ON, and so I suspect that these rings have something to do with it ? I will purchase them from my supplier in Sydney NSW, today, and hopefully have them by Thursday, when I can fit them, assuming they are not a major problem to fit ? I’ve never had such a temperamental car in all my 78 years, but I am getting a little excited that I’m actually getting closer to fixing my serious problem of a Gearbox Fault, when I go shopping and the car reaches normal running temperature. It’s when I come to drive it home, after shopping, that it shows up on my dashboard, Gearbox Fault, and remains in, what seems to be 4th gear. I’m also going to change the gearbox oil this weekend, so hopefully, it’ll be another link in the chain of problems solved. 🤓👍🤓
#20
06-14-2022, 06:17 AM
O2 Sensor
Hi there h2o2steam,,
I put my cheap fault finder on it today, after I took it for a short drive to do some shopping, and when I got home I switched it off, and gave it some cooling off time. When I switched it back on and I had the fault finder plugged in, it came up on the dashboard Gearbox Fault. Then I checked the gauge and it had 4 faults to report. I’m in my local at this moment, but I only live across the road, so I’ll go over and give you the 4 codes that came up,,, And they are;;
P0057 … P1646 … P1647 & C1165. ??
Docko..
I put my cheap fault finder on it today, after I took it for a short drive to do some shopping, and when I got home I switched it off, and gave it some cooling off time. When I switched it back on and I had the fault finder plugged in, it came up on the dashboard Gearbox Fault. Then I checked the gauge and it had 4 faults to report. I’m in my local at this moment, but I only live across the road, so I’ll go over and give you the 4 codes that came up,,, And they are;;
P0057 … P1646 … P1647 & C1165. ??
Docko..