o2 sensor 2
#2
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NBCat (12-19-2017)
#5
#7
The Jaguar 3.0 has a total of 4 oxygen sensors. 02 number 2 doesn't help in figuring out what the problem may be.
In another post I saw where you had a PA204 code. First PA isn't a valid code if it was a typo and you have P0204 then your problem is not with the oxygen sensor but with the #4 fuel injector. Most likely disconnected, damaged connector or damaged wire.
If the mechanic changed the 02 sensor on the front bank at the top of the exhaust it is possible to have move, dislocated or damaged the #4 injector connector.
To really be of help we need the codes read and posted as read.
In another post I saw where you had a PA204 code. First PA isn't a valid code if it was a typo and you have P0204 then your problem is not with the oxygen sensor but with the #4 fuel injector. Most likely disconnected, damaged connector or damaged wire.
If the mechanic changed the 02 sensor on the front bank at the top of the exhaust it is possible to have move, dislocated or damaged the #4 injector connector.
To really be of help we need the codes read and posted as read.
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#9
#10
The generic definition of P2A04 is the bank 2 sensor 2. That would be the downstream sensor (after the catalytic convertor) on the engine bank closest to the radiator. If you are still reading incorrect voltage values (which is the definition) then I would look at the plug/connector for damaged pins and check for a blown fuse. While running you should have voltage to the sensor.
If a generic sensor was installed you might want to check for correct wiring connections.
If a generic sensor was installed you might want to check for correct wiring connections.
#12
Well we are down to only a few things that can be wrong.
1. I particularly pointed out that it is the sensor after the convertor on the exhaust closest to the radiator. Is this the one the mechanic replaced? It isn't uncommon to confuse bank 1 and bank2.
2. The connector is located beneath the battery. Have you examined the connectors and made sure that they are not cracked or the pins bent?
3. Have you checked for voltage at the connector?
If you have verified all of the 3 things listed above then the replacement sensor is defective or you have a broken wire.
1. I particularly pointed out that it is the sensor after the convertor on the exhaust closest to the radiator. Is this the one the mechanic replaced? It isn't uncommon to confuse bank 1 and bank2.
2. The connector is located beneath the battery. Have you examined the connectors and made sure that they are not cracked or the pins bent?
3. Have you checked for voltage at the connector?
If you have verified all of the 3 things listed above then the replacement sensor is defective or you have a broken wire.
#13
Well we are down to only a few things that can be wrong.
1. I particularly pointed out that it is the sensor after the convertor on the exhaust closest to the radiator. Is this the one the mechanic replaced? It isn't uncommon to confuse bank 1 and bank2.
2. The connector is located beneath the battery. Have you examined the connectors and made sure that they are not cracked or the pins bent?
3. Have you checked for voltage at the connector?
If you have verified all of the 3 things listed above then the replacement sensor is defective or you have a broken wire.
1. I particularly pointed out that it is the sensor after the convertor on the exhaust closest to the radiator. Is this the one the mechanic replaced? It isn't uncommon to confuse bank 1 and bank2.
2. The connector is located beneath the battery. Have you examined the connectors and made sure that they are not cracked or the pins bent?
3. Have you checked for voltage at the connector?
If you have verified all of the 3 things listed above then the replacement sensor is defective or you have a broken wire.
Watching youtube I found that the resistance across the heater wires should be about 1 Ohm.
Btw, on the bank ID, I just say rear bank or front bank. ...keeping the beer count low enough, you can't confuse where the front of the car is
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