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OEM Speakers or Aftermarket Ideas?

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  #21  
Old 01-06-2012, 02:03 AM
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don, some aftermarket speakers will clear the windows, but there is really no way to know until you actually have the speaker installed. I just rolled my window down before installing the speaker and did a quick mock up with the speaker and it fit without a spacer so I mounted it and installed it. Great tip about the door clips! my door panels have been wobbling all over the place since the day I bought the car. The only problem is that the plastic mount on the back of my door panels that holds the clips is broken which is what is causing the problem... Just make sure you pull your door panel of STRAIGHT and not at all down or sideways because you WILL break the plastic on the back of your door panel and have to revert to epoxy (not the end of the world.)
 
  #22  
Old 02-13-2012, 02:38 PM
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Cambo, figured I'd post this instead of PM`ing you in case anyone else wanted to know as well.

Just to verify, the big nut holding the fuse box is what you ended up tapping into for your positive (battery) feed, correct?
 
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  #23  
Old 02-14-2012, 01:45 AM
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That's not my photo, I forgot to take one during the install & that was the only one I could find online that showed the nut.

Yes, the nut in the top right of the pic is a direct feed from the battery, I undid the nut & slipped a ring connector under it. Make sure the battery is disconnected!

The red connection in the bottom left was an earth, as part of the automatic powerfold retrofit, unrelated to the Premium Sound retrofit. The earth for the amp was in the boot/trunk underneath the amp itself, same earthing point as the Nav DVD and Phone modules.

Gotta give credit for that pic. Prisoners on the UK forum. Not me.
 
  #24  
Old 02-14-2012, 05:53 AM
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First of all you CAN get an idea of whether aftermarket speakers will clear the window or not, it is simply a case of comparing the mounting depth of the two. The aftermarket speakers will list them.
Personally I've had real good luck ordering from www.millionbuy.com and www.woofersetc.com.
Good luck and keep us updated! +1 for the Polks,btw.
 
  #25  
Old 02-14-2012, 08:27 AM
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Thanks for the clarification cambo.

Ok, I wouldn't be me if I didn't try to always complicate matters With that said, I'm thinking to first try using the already there fuse for the amp in the fusebox (F20). I noticed there is a 30A fuse already there, not sure why as I don't have the premium audio from the factory and that fuse only powers the amp.



This idea has a chance at working only if there is a pin already in the CA208 plug for that fuse, or it's the same type/size of another plug I have laying around. If not, then back to the main feed at the nut.

It's also interesting to note that there is a second feed from that fuse that goes to another plug which seems to be unused (CA204-10). I wonder if they intended to use that for the second power source to the amp instead of splitting CA208-8 at CAS90.

Now to figure out how to remove the fuse box.
 

Last edited by spielnicht; 02-14-2012 at 08:30 AM.
  #26  
Old 02-14-2012, 09:37 AM
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Mine had the fuse in too. But the wire was missing from the plug CA208.
I thought about pulling out the plug & just adding in the wire, but then it would be a case of finding the right pin, after all the trouble with the other connectors, I just gave up & went on the nut instead. Still with a 30A fuse though, just in the back. Your guess is as good as mine for the CA204-10...?
 
  #27  
Old 02-14-2012, 09:51 AM
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Ok, the idea is half-way to the grave if there isn't a pin already as you indicated. I'll spend no more than 5 mins trying to pull the CA208 plug out of the back to check the pin type/size, if it take more time than that, then it ain't worth it.
 
  #28  
Old 02-18-2012, 07:11 AM
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For what it's worth, it took me only a couple minutes to route a thick power wire through the thick grommet in the firewall to the left of the brake booster (as seen looking from the front of the car). I made a puncture with a screwdriver, a little offset from the main wire bundle in the grommet and because the wire I was running through was single strand and of a low gauge it was plenty stiff enough to just push through the hole that I'd made. No problems with leaking air through that hole, it's tight and being able to connect the wire directly from the battery back to the trunk gave me all the 'feel good' I was looking for.
 
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