ok i was changing my spark plugs because i thought my car needed them because the car was hesitating when i was accelarating it but everytime i hit 10 miles per hour the car would jerk and go back to zero miles per hour.
But the spark plugs had car oil in them is this normal

 

Perez, no, this is not normal. It sounds like the seals on the valve covers are leaking and need to be changed. You should be able to get a seal set for each valve cover and then you will need to get access to the valve covers and pull them off 1 at a time. The hard part of this whole job is simply getting things moved out of the way enough to get the valve cover off. Also, make sure nothing falls into the top of the heads. If you do catch something falling in there, pull it back out.

I'm sure someone else will have some more detailed info on what it will take to pull the valve covers off.

 

I guess we need to know which end of the spark plugs had the oil on them??? If it is the firing end a leaking valve cover seal would not be the issue. If it is the other end then i guess a leaking valve cover could put oil on them????

 

so what could it be would this cause my car not want to go pass 10 miles per hour

 

I am venturing to guess that you are getting misfires on multiple cylinders and that is tossing the car into a recovery mode and limiting the power. In your case, it may be significant enough that the computer is not letting the motor generate any power.

 

yes thats is exactly what more car is doing

 

so what could i do to fix this problem please help

 

Replace the valve covers gaskets and spark plug boss seals. You will need a LH and RH valve cover gasket and 2 spark plug boss seals. The X-type just uses two spark plug boss seals (one per side) unlike the V8 cars that each plug gets its own seal.

The oil could easily be the cause of your misfire.

 

My 2.5 xtype has oil on the first to plugs from passanger side. iwas wondering what it couod be?? any suggestions would help alot..

 

Emiliano, it sounds like your valve cover has a small leak on the seal between the cover and the plug well. Unfortunately, to fix that, you will need to pull the valve cover off and put a new seal set on it.

 

Anyone have a write-up or photos on how to do this?

It appears this is the gasket set I need for the 2.5 also, correct? -

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...FUKd4Aod3hsAZA

Thanks!

 

Harvey, yes, that would be the kit that you need. As for a write up, I can not say that I have seen one. If you have some mechanical ability (must since you are willing to give this a try), dive in there, take some pics and do up the how to. If you are not sure how to do the how-to, send the pics to me and a brief explanation of what each picture is showing and I will write it up for you.

Go for it.

 

Will do. Ordered it today so should have it next weekend. (Autozone, AAP, and NAPA don't have it in stock and they're all $20 more than the above link).

 

Replacing valve cover seals and spark plug boss seals

Jaguar X-Type, 2002, 2.5

I've been consistently getting oil in my spark plug chambers, and after reading up on it appears that that my spark plug seals may have failed. There are two spark plug boss seals, one protecting each bank of spark plugs. The bank toward the rear of the car and closest to the passenger compartment is the right hand bank, the one toward the front of the car is the left hand bank.



I started with the Right hand bank, and that's what I'll post below. I'll update with the left hand bank in the near future.

To begin, you'll have to remove the intake manifold to access the right hand valve cover. It's the same process as if you were to change the spark plugs in that bank. There is a good writeup of that by rhriczko here -

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nge-faq-48128/



Once you have the manifold off you can start removing all the electrical connections from the valve cover. Start with the ignition coils to the spark plugs, the wiring harness and the vct connector.

Next remove the engine cover retainer bracket (front passenger side of the valve cover),



and the intake manifold support bracket (rear of the valve cover).



These two brackets, and a few other support brackets, are tricky. They are attached by means of an 8mm nut on each of the connection bolts.



You have to remove the 8mm nut first, before you can access the 10mm bolt that connects the valve cover. You'll need a deep socket for 8mm and 10mm to get these off.

There are a total of 12 bolts you have to loosen. 8 have the 8mm nut on top. Bolts 1 and 2 and 8 and 12 do not and can be loosened with a standard 10mm socket. Removal of each bolt is not necessary, just to loosen them up and free them from the connection from the body. I wound up removing them all only to discover this later.



Once you've loosened the bolts the valve cover comes off with a good pull. There's a little resistance around the VCT connector, but not much. When I pulled the cover off the spark plug boss stayed inside, but the valve cover seal came out with the cover.

 

Then replace the valve cover seal, making sure to clean the area of contact and ensure there isn't any gunk there. I had to gently scrape some parts of the valve cover to remove some gasket material.



It's a tight fit, but should go in smoothly. Remember that if you buy the kit you get both a right and left hand seal, make sure you use the right one on the right side. There are some guide points that should help to ensure a proper fit. And notice that the "raised" side sticks out from the valve cover, while the "flat" side fits neatly into the channel.



I used a few bits of black gasket maker around the outside of each bolt hole.

Perma Products Company ULTRA BLACK MAX OIL RESISTANT GASKET MAKER 3.35 - 230-82180 - 230-82180 at Wares Direct

Then install the cover back on, following directions for the gasket maker, and tighten the 10mm connection bolts to 10nm. Tighten the 8mm nuts to 6nm.

This covers the right hand side valve cover. I'll post an update with the left hand side shortly.

 

Also, the gasket kit I bought was noted as being for the 3.0, after lots of research and Thermo's help above it's clear the valve kit is interchangeable with the 2.5 or 3.0.

Aside from an 8mm and 10mm deep socket you'll probably want an extension bar for your socket wrench to reach some of the bolts, and a pair of needle nose pliers or specialty tool to remove the hose clamps.

Sears.com

 

Ancient post, but no one thanked you for the effort put into the writeup.

Good work, and thank you very much.

I'm doing the job now.

Thanks again!

 

Actually, I have a question of my own and don't want to clog the forum.

I'm not understanding this from the workshop manual.

"Apply a 5 mm diameter bead of silicone gasket sealant on the half
round gaskets and apply an 8 mm diameter bead of silicone gasket
sealant on the two places where the cylinder head and front timing cover
join."

*EDIT* Nevermind, I just used "common" sense and applied the rtv as I saw fit, in a way that made sense. Also, no-no or not (I have NO idea), I used a reasonable amount on the spark plug seals too, because the seal that was in there looked and felt perfect, so it really shouldn't have been leaking. Worst case scenario, I have to get back in there again and redo it.

 

thankyou for this great write up. Just the information I needed. Great pictures

 

Hi !! I wonder if you fix the problem? Because I have the same exact thing. If so, could you please tell me how did you fix it? And what parts that I need to change? Ty