2002 X type 2.5L - car went into limp mode after registering GEARBOX Fault and AMBER engine light - taking to tech on Monday for diagnostics but as this is Saturday, am wondering if I am doing any damage driving a few miles here and there at low speeds until then - I know there may be no definitive answer but thought I'd ask - Thanks! MC

 

redcrow1, the general rule of thumb is if just the check engine light is on steady, then you are fine. If the check engine light is flashing at you, then you should be driving only far enough to get to a safe spot. Just keep in mind that the more you drive, the more likely you are to damage something bigger resulting in a more costly repair.

Granted, before you get it into the shop, I would check the vacuum hose that runs from the front valve cover (PCV valve) to the intake. If you have a split on that large hose (normally occurs on the underside of the hose, out of sight), that can cause what you are seeing. The other thing that I would do is to get yourself a can of throttlebody cleaner (not carb cleaner) and clean the throttlebody really good. You may find that the car will be flooded when you put it back together, but hold your foot flat on the floor when you go to start the car and you will feel it catch after a little bit of rolling of the engine. As the engine comes up in speed, ease off the gas to keep it running. Flooring the car when cranking the engine ironically shuts off the injectors and just pumps air through the engine to clear a flooded engine condition.

 

Appreciate the detailed message - going to dig in now and will post an update - gracias

 

Also, research Technical Service Bulletin XT303-02 (May/2002).

"Issue:

Owners of some 2002 MY X-TYPE vehicles within the above VIN range may complain

of engine misfire or illumination of the Malfunction Indicator Lamps (MIL). These

conditions can be caused by the engine harness chafing on its mounting bracket

resulting in a short circuit to ground."

 

Finally got codes read after GEARBOX FAULT ERROR and MIL LIGHT constant - they are P0456 very small leak in EVAP system, P0778 Pressure control solenoid B and P1603 TCM EEPROM malfunction and of course the P1111 scan - stuck in safe mode - any direction would be most appreciated - thanks!

 

redcrow, for the moment, ignore the P0456 as this will not cause what you are seeing. P0456 is more along the lines of say the gas cap not being put on all the way or something of the like.

Now for the real problem. Lets first start with checking to make sure that fuses F27, F40, F5, and F67 (all in the engine bay fuse box) are good. After that, if you can, verify that you have 12 VDC at the top of fuse F40. If you have power in all these spots, then you are looking at either a bad shift solenoid or your TCM has failed and it is at the moment only affecting the 2/4 brake solenoid. Maybe someone else can help chime in here, but I would be recommending to take it to a tranny shop and see what they will tell you. Hopefully they can simply pull the pan off the bottom of the tranny and replace the solenoid for fairly cheap. They will also have the computer to do a more detailed analysis of the TCM to see if that is good or bad.

 

Hey Thermo - Thanks for all your advice - posted a new post called 2002 X TYPE Transmission Troubles - here's the read:

I have a steady engine light on and the GEAR FAULT error which started up a week or so ago - after a few minutes of some rough shifting, car locks into limp mode. Took car in to my mechanic and here is his diagnosis -

Checked codes, cleared codes, test drove - vehicle has flair / slip in 2nd 3rd - Trans. code P0778 returns right away. Checked solenoid ( pins 52, 4 , 13, 16 ) resistance 0.9 ohms spec is 2.9 ohms. Solenoid is defective. Transmission fluid level is full but fluid is very dark and smells burnt indicating internal damage / wear - recommendation replace transmission.

Haven't gotten a 2nd opinion yet - before I resign myself to new tranny, I wanted to post for some advice, workaround, etc.

Do you think replacing the solenoid might still be a solution - appreciate your input.

Thanks!

Michael

 

Michael, this is a gamble that you will have to decide if you are willing to tackle. The new solenoid is a fairly easy fix and shouldn't set you back but about $300 or so to have a shop do it for you. But, if there is more than just the solenoid that is toast, then you are going to be out the cost of a new tranny plus the $300. But, it may also save you a $1000. If you can do the solenoid replacement yourself (another member just did this and said it was fairly easy to do by yourself), then it may only set you back say $100 plus an hour or two of your time.

 

Car's with a transmission specialist who's given it the once over and a second opinion. Solenoids definitely needs replacement. 9 error codes ( mostly electrical and communication ) and car won't drive at all except for reverse.

With no pan to remove ( thought that was weird ) he needs to remove tranny to diagnose completely. Given the labor required this is a $1305 proposition which would be applied to the cost of a rebuilt if I need to go that way - if it's a lesser problem - great - but it's a pricey way to find out.

Rebuilts are estimated between $3-4K pushing the whole deal close to $5K - ouch! - I've looked at used trannies on eBay for around $1400 for a relatively low mileage one but that's a risky venture.

Decision time... thanks for your help - Michael

 

redcrow, you may want to do some looking around. One of the members here just replaced the solenoids himself and I don't recall him talking about pulling the tranny. You may want to do some looking around in the search area. That might save you some money if you can show the tranny guy where to access the solenoids without having to drop the tranny.