Dwclapp, more info for you. So I earned my fresh air actuator badge today. Man that's hard to get out. What I had to do was use t15 bit and 6mm spanner wrench to start each bolt then by hand once started. No room at all for anything else. My actuator was not responding to the changes on the control panel buttons while connected so I took it and tried it by first testing it with some thin wire leads and a 9 volt battery to the connection pins. The shaft didn't respond at all. So I tried it with a 12 volt battery and also no response. So I opened the clips on the actuator box and opened it up. The gears are all sound. I removed the small electric motor and the gears and shaft will all move freely of course. The electric motor is not seized but it will not respond to any battery current I apply to it. My question is can the motor itself be changed or do I replace the entire actuator? Also I tried to rotate the actual fresh air door from underneath dash with the actuator out but it's not easily moving so don't want to force it and break something. How does that door/flap open to allow fresh air in?

 

Rob: You're making good progress diagnosing two separate problems. The recirculation door determines how air ENTERS the air box, and the defrost door determines how air EXITS the box. Since they're independent problems, a separate fix is needed for each.

I'd first fixing the defrost door, since this is winter and you want to blow hot air at the windshield, while keeping cold, external air out of the cabin. When you manually turn the shaft of the defrost door, can you tell if the door is actually rotating, e.g., can you redirect air from the windshield to you face and back to the windshield? If 'no', the end of the shaft may be slipping so the shaft turns, but the door does not. Some folks have fixed this with a drop of crazy glue where the end of the shaft. If you haven't seen this thread, it has some more suggestions: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...heater-128810/

For the stuck recirculation door, if you can't open it with a dowel, you may need to remove actuator #1, to see if it's functioning. Unfortunately this actuator is harder to reach. It's on the other side of the airbox, above the gas pedal on our US / left hand drive cars. There may be a better way to reach it, but I haven't had to (yet).

Good luck.

 

Ok now I'm really confused. I thought the fresh air/recirculate door and actuator are sitting on top of the blower motor? If not, what is that actuator that I just removed and found not to be working that is attached to above blower motor housing? I found one on eBay and went ahead and ordered that part with same 1SH-19B634-CA part number as what I removed. Isn't that what opens the door behind the pollen filter and allows fresh air into the cabin? So why would I need to go to stepper no 1?

I have to download the workshop manual when I get back home to my laptop since I am using my iPad this week and it isn't wanting to download the manual. But I want to try the procedure you suggested in another thread to take the bottom off the air handler box and try to get my defrost flap out. I want to see the steps you mentioned for taking bottom of air box off which is behind carpet piece. Since my defrost flap pivot behind stepper 3 spins 360 degrees when I inserted the hex wrench I suspect it broke from the defrost door flap. Sound correct? I do want to get defrost flap sorted but there is plenty of air now blowing through demister vents whereas before I started this there was none

 

Rob: You have the correct part for actuator #1 - the recirculator door. I haven't had to mess with that one (yet), and the parts drawing shows it and the blower on the left for UK cars, but it's on the right for our US cars.

The carpet panels on the side of the transmission hump are easy to remove. Move the front seat(s) all the say back, and look for the head of a single Philips screw in the center of the panel. Remove that single screw and the panel snaps out. This exposes the bottom of the air handler box, and you'll see metal clips that hold the bottom of the box to the sides. However, I haven't had to remove the bottom of the box (yet), so I can't advise you on that one.

Please take pictures and post for the next person who follows you down this path.

 

Well I guess I do see what you mean about that diagram being the RH drive configuration. I feel silly now. Well I can tell you that removing that actuator is a real PITA and I had to do it by feel mostly. Once I loosened the t15 torx screws with a torx bit in my 1/4" socket then I could do rest by hand easily enough. There is not enough room to use any tool in there. This makes me feel better now that you pointed out the obvious that I was looking at a diagram of RH layout.

I also have an idea for modification of the instructions to align the D shaped shaft on actuator to line up its flat side to the line on the body of the actuator. i will do a separate post with pictures tomorrow with that idea but it's basically to open the actuator and turn the gears to make the shaft line up perfectly then close up actuator again. It's easy to open and would take 1 min to do it

Thanks so much for your guidance

 

Update - I successfully opened my fresh air damper door, installed a new charcoal pollen filter, and then installed my replacement fresh air door actuator part I got off eBay. I tested its operation first before install and it worked. So I now have operable fresh air/recirculate function. But my defrost door is not functional. The stepper motor that controls it turns and the shaft going inside air box isn't connected to a door any more. I do get constant air to defrost vents and can divert some to floor and face vents. But I need to now figure how to replace broken defrost door flap. I will do specific post about this repair I just did.

 

Rob: Congrats on the progress you are making.

If you haven't seen this thread, it may help you fix the broken shaft on the defrost door. There are pictures of a broken shaft are further down the thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...tional-141907/

 

Yes I was referencing that thread to help me realize my damper shaft is just spinning freely. My situation seems exactly the same. I see reference to trying to remove the broken damper door/flap for defrost mode but I can't find how to do that. I have looked in at the air handler but how can I get the damper out then back in without taking out entire dash?

 

hate to hijack a thread but I was just told my compressor locked up, it worked fine one day and warm the next, here in Florida it's heat in the mornng and a/c later in the day. I do think I feel a vibration when I turn on the air that is blowing warm. Should I just do the new compressor for 800.? it's an 02 x type 2.5

 

- First Check Actuator #4, you have to pull the glove box for access, I think its a Torq #20 bit to remove the screws of the actuator. Now energize the Temp for heat to cold and back and forth to see the actuator movement. If it moves then its getting power. If not then the actuator is most likely burnt out, you can swamp out another actuator to see if it powers up on that harness. I seen issues were its the heater valve Flap, (Yes it's a flap that blocks air flow from the heater core, Its not a valve for the coolant flow). The heater valve Flap has a membrane that falls apart, u have to pull the dash out to get to it. Here is the Part # C2S15756 is the temperature select blender.

 

On Actuator #4 after you do the above i explained you can use a Hex (Allen) for a a 8mm Allen worked to manually open and close the heater valve flap to see if the air temp changes for you...