P1000 Is there any easy way?
#1
P1000 Is there any easy way?
Hi,
I am in the process of selling my 03 jaguar X-type 5 speed. It currently has the P1000 code on it and I don't think I am going to have any luck selling it with this code on it. From what I have read you have to drive it certain ways etc.. before it goes off. The only instructions I found was for an automatic. Does anyone know of an easy way to get this code off my car?
Someone said something about resetting the codes then turn it half way on wait for a while then crank car and it should give systems time to check. Well any help would be great.. Thank You..
--Nick
I am in the process of selling my 03 jaguar X-type 5 speed. It currently has the P1000 code on it and I don't think I am going to have any luck selling it with this code on it. From what I have read you have to drive it certain ways etc.. before it goes off. The only instructions I found was for an automatic. Does anyone know of an easy way to get this code off my car?
Someone said something about resetting the codes then turn it half way on wait for a while then crank car and it should give systems time to check. Well any help would be great.. Thank You..
--Nick
#2
The car must complete the manufacturer's 'drive cycle' requirements to clear the P1000. There is little documentation on what the 'drive cycle' requirements are.
An example of a Ford 'drive cycle' can be found here: http://matt.zenfolio.com/ford-motor-...ving-cycle.pdf
An example of a Ford 'drive cycle' can be found here: http://matt.zenfolio.com/ford-motor-...ving-cycle.pdf
#3
Your drive cycles are described in the first few pages of this document.
Without diagnostic equipment, it is impossible to know for sure which parts of the drive cycle really are necessary. I know that here in VA, when we go for an emissions test, if the car fails due to 'not ready' status, the printout actually says what tests are not ready...that is really handy.
If you can post the fault codes you had before that were corrected with your last service, or at least the type of service that was done recently on the car, we probably can make an educated guess as to which parts of the drive cycle you actually need to do.
Without diagnostic equipment, it is impossible to know for sure which parts of the drive cycle really are necessary. I know that here in VA, when we go for an emissions test, if the car fails due to 'not ready' status, the printout actually says what tests are not ready...that is really handy.
If you can post the fault codes you had before that were corrected with your last service, or at least the type of service that was done recently on the car, we probably can make an educated guess as to which parts of the drive cycle you actually need to do.
Last edited by WhiteXKR; 02-23-2011 at 07:22 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by WhiteXKR:
luisgobea (02-27-2015),
test point (02-23-2011)
#4
The following users liked this post:
RickBNA (02-28-2011)
#5
I could not agree more!!!
And it is OBVIOUS from the original post that clearing the code in order to sell the car and NOT being a stand up guy is the poster's intent.
Sorry... I say things out load because I AM NOT politically correct!!
#6
#7
P1000 just means that codes have been cleared out. It will automatically change to P1111 which means that the components have passed their tests. Go to www.canobd2.com if you want to get code definitions.
This happened to me after I went to the Jag dealer to clear up dumb recalls before going to get a smog test. The car failed. What is going on is that it used to be that people could pull their ECM fuse or disconnect the battery for at least 15 seconds and all the codes would be gone. They would then go to the test and most likely the codes won't be back yet. So now the computer wants to see a number of pass the test readings before switching to a P1111.
The dealer told me to drive 300 miles and all would be right. WRONG!!!! I figured that I would need to run a number of tests before it would pass. So, I went on a drive and I would stop every so often, turn the engine off, wait about 30 seconds, restart and dirve some more. I did this for what must have been about 10 times including the starts since the dealer cleared the codes. It then passed.
This happened to me after I went to the Jag dealer to clear up dumb recalls before going to get a smog test. The car failed. What is going on is that it used to be that people could pull their ECM fuse or disconnect the battery for at least 15 seconds and all the codes would be gone. They would then go to the test and most likely the codes won't be back yet. So now the computer wants to see a number of pass the test readings before switching to a P1111.
The dealer told me to drive 300 miles and all would be right. WRONG!!!! I figured that I would need to run a number of tests before it would pass. So, I went on a drive and I would stop every so often, turn the engine off, wait about 30 seconds, restart and dirve some more. I did this for what must have been about 10 times including the starts since the dealer cleared the codes. It then passed.
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