P1367 (P0351, P1353, P1255) HELP (long)
#1
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Ok Guys this is my 2003 X-Type 2.5 Auto "parts car". It has been running so good I have been driving the $%^& out of it for the last 3 years (145000 miles). It ran so well I drove it for work service calls (computer tech).
Over the last few years, it would drop into limp mode. Clear the codes and it was good for 6 more months. With the lockdown, I have been driving it only a little bit each week. Last week it is in the P1367 mode (bank 1 out) 90% of the time.
This is what I have done in order:
Checked for hot battery cables with max draw - not hot
Older battery so put the one in from my good X-Type (cleaned everything) - did not help
Battery voltage would drop when bank 1 cuts out (running slower) - put my 60 amp battery charger on (med) when running to make sure the voltage was above 12.7- no change.
Cleaned the ECU ground - no change
Ran a ground wire from Bat (-) to ECU ground - no change
Plugs and coils look clean, Very small amount of oil in plug holes (wet)
Service manual on P1367 testing - passed all tests.
Ran a jumper wire to test the yellow/green sensor wire ECU to bank 1 cable on motor thinking it was going bad - no change
The manual says after it passes all of the tests it is the ECU. I find that hard to believe because if I clear the codes when it is idling bad (running on one bank) it runs fine for a while. This tells me coils and plugs are fine. Sounds like an intermittent bad wire, but I jumped them.
I have my GOOD X-Tye to pull parts from if I must. I would not want to damage that ECU.
Questions:
I do have the Mongoose software and cables but never installed it yet. Can it test the ECU or help in any way?
Can you send the ECU out to be tested? Cost? Who?
Local Junkyard has an ECU for $45, but if I recall it needs to be set up for the car, VIN #?
I am open to any ideas you may have. A friend suggested a naked virgin dance around the car, still working on that one..
Sorry, this is soooo long but I always do my best before asking for help.![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
HELP!
Over the last few years, it would drop into limp mode. Clear the codes and it was good for 6 more months. With the lockdown, I have been driving it only a little bit each week. Last week it is in the P1367 mode (bank 1 out) 90% of the time.
This is what I have done in order:
Checked for hot battery cables with max draw - not hot
Older battery so put the one in from my good X-Type (cleaned everything) - did not help
Battery voltage would drop when bank 1 cuts out (running slower) - put my 60 amp battery charger on (med) when running to make sure the voltage was above 12.7- no change.
Cleaned the ECU ground - no change
Ran a ground wire from Bat (-) to ECU ground - no change
Plugs and coils look clean, Very small amount of oil in plug holes (wet)
Service manual on P1367 testing - passed all tests.
Ran a jumper wire to test the yellow/green sensor wire ECU to bank 1 cable on motor thinking it was going bad - no change
The manual says after it passes all of the tests it is the ECU. I find that hard to believe because if I clear the codes when it is idling bad (running on one bank) it runs fine for a while. This tells me coils and plugs are fine. Sounds like an intermittent bad wire, but I jumped them.
I have my GOOD X-Tye to pull parts from if I must. I would not want to damage that ECU.
Questions:
I do have the Mongoose software and cables but never installed it yet. Can it test the ECU or help in any way?
Can you send the ECU out to be tested? Cost? Who?
Local Junkyard has an ECU for $45, but if I recall it needs to be set up for the car, VIN #?
I am open to any ideas you may have. A friend suggested a naked virgin dance around the car, still working on that one..
Sorry, this is soooo long but I always do my best before asking for help.
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
HELP!
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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Larry, something that has been brought to my attention and seems like you may be suffering from it is that the fuel injector harnesses are starting to go bad in these cars as they get up in age causing misfires and whatnot. If you have access to a local junk yard and can pull the fuel injector harness off for say $20 or so, I would go that way. You can also find them on E-bay and whatnot for fairly cheap. From there if you continue to have problems, then it would be most likely your ECU. You are correct that if you go with a new ECU, you will need to transfer in the data to make it work. This is where a local shop (most likely one that specializes in European cars) will have the ability to program the module for you. Now, what they would charge, hard to say. If you can swap the module and just push the car into their garage, then should be nothing more than say an hour of their time.
#3
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Thermo it is always good to hear from you.
I will look at both fuel injector harness this weekend to see if anything comes to light. The service manual did not point me in that direction.
Should I take the time to get my Mongoose software working or is there nothing in it to help with this mess?
Also, I wanted to thank you again for the recommendation on the brakes you have...love'em
I will look at both fuel injector harness this weekend to see if anything comes to light. The service manual did not point me in that direction.
Should I take the time to get my Mongoose software working or is there nothing in it to help with this mess?
Also, I wanted to thank you again for the recommendation on the brakes you have...love'em
#4
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