Hello to all,

I am 1 month overdue on my New York state inspection due to a check engine code that I can't clear on my son's car. I am getting a P1582 code, which after some research, seems to point to the throttle body. I cleaned the throttle body and installed a new mass airflow sensor. Before doing this work I would clear the check engine light and it would go back on immediatley after starting the car or moving a short distance. After cleaning the throttle body I can a distance (haven't tried over 15 miles yet) without the CEL coming back on. When I turn the car off and start moving forward it comes on immediatley. Tomorrow I will see how far I can go if I don't turn the car off. I want to drive it far enough, so I can drive it in to a local garage and get it inspected before the light comes back on. The trick will be to drive it long enough to close the necessary loops. A new throttle body is around $400 and not sure I want to take a chance on a junk yard part. Is there any way to confirm if that is really the issue?

I don't think this has anything to do with my issue, but will mention it just in case. My ABS light is ON and I am getting codes for both rear ABS sensors. I removed the passenger side sensor and cleaned it. I noticed that the end of the sensor was worn from hitting the ring. The ring was intact, but I could see that half of the ribs were polished from contacting the sensor. I bought a new one to replace it, but for the life of me can't figure out how the back seat comes out. I pulled up on the seat to remove it from the clips, but can't figure out what is holding it down in the back? I am assuming the speedometer depends on these sensors as it goes off after driving a few miles, but comes back ON after turning the car OFF and back ON?

Sorry for the long disertation. I am stressed as my daughter's car is also having issues and I can do little things, but am not a car guy. We just pumped $1600 into the Jaguar and am wondering when to pull the plug! My son and I both love the car, but have to be realistic.

Jim

 

Back seat, post #4

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...val-help-7726/

I've done mine so many times I don't even think about the procedure any more.

P1582 is a "flight recorder" failure.
P1582 is a very common code. to the point where jaguar received a TSB , basically the code indicates that the flight data recorder sensed a fault which usually means a stall or the battery unhooked or even low! so not something you'd actually have to worry about to be honest.

Post #2 =

https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/...-jaguar.71973/

And btw, bad speed sensor(s) light the MIL and or ABS.

 

The tone or reluctor ring for the rear ABS sensor is way out of round probably due to swelling of the axle/hub from rust. The signal strength of that sensor will vary from tooth to tooth depending on how far the sensor is from each tooth on the ring and can easily cause ABS warnings when the high spots hit the sensor. You need to replace the rear axles or half axles with parts that include new reluctor rings or replace just the reluctor rings. Half axles and full axles are not much different in price so there is not a lot of reason to replace only a half axle unless you are doing the work yourself and want to save ~$20.

The ABS code can give you a CEL.

P1582 indicates "flight data recorder" was triggered. I see nothing in the Jag Workshop Manual that says this is related to a throttle body problem. I could be wrong.

Two bad wheel speed sensors at the same time can cause the ECU and ABS control to get confused about which wheel is doing what and trigger other codes, I would fix the rear wheel speed sensors and then re-evaluate.

For the back seat, lift up the front of the back seat on the driver or passenger side with a good yank upwards, then go to the other side of the car and do it again. Then pull and wiggle the back seat bottom up and toward the front of the car. It will pop out eventually.

 

AS dh says. I researched them a little while back and Rock Auto (?) or Partsgeek (?) had full shafts with reluctor rings (be carefully they sell them w and w/o) less than the half shafts which made no sense to me. You also need a decent (not expensive necessarily) ELM to pull the codes with the Torque app. It will give you the speed sensor failure codes for whichever wheels are bad. Mine recently was C1165 (RR) after replacing that wheel hub. Getting the new speed sensor push in holding prongs were the hardest part of replacing the sensor. I had to end up heating them up then lightly hammering them in the holes to get them in.

 

Hi Jim,

It is helpful to state the year and engine of your X-Type since Jaguar's diagnostic trouble code definitions changed over the course of X-Type production. Here is the definition and published possible causes of P1582 from the 2002 DTC Summaries manual. I say "published possible causes" because often we find that there are additional possible causes either inadvertently omitted from the manual or not foreseen by the Jaguar engineers at the time of design and production:



P1582 will not generally illuminate the Check Engine Light on its own, so it would be worth addressing the ABS DTCs first, as dh & Dell recommended. The loss of speedometer function is probably triggering the CEL.

Most scan tools cannot clear P1582, so it may just be persisting rather than recurring.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for the quick responses guys! You saved me a trip to the junk yard - was planning to get a new throttle body. I will concentrate on the ABS sensors. I could handle replacing the sensors, but replacing the axles is way over my head and sounds like it may be an expensive proposition.

FYI - the car is a 2004 Jaguar X-type with 3.0 Liter engine

 

A couple more questions....

1) Can you replace just the reluctor ring without replacing the entire CV joint?
2) Can you replace the ABS sensor that is hitting the teeth and install a small shim or would you get bad readings as you would have more of a gap to the teeth it is not hitting?

Another bit of information that may or may not be helpful. I cleared the codes this morning and as usual, the speedometer went off after about 2 miles. I made it to work (25 miles) without the check engine light coming on. Turned the car off and back on, still no CEL. Moved forward a few feet and the CEL popped back ON.

I am wondering if I could drive it, say 75 miles, get it to my local shop (without turning the car OFF, and get it inspected? Hopefully the open loops would be cleared. The mechanic has basically inspected the car...he is just waiting for me to bring it back with no CEL. This would give me a little more time to fix the car and not worry about getting stopped by the cops!

 

You can replace reluctor rings. Here is one source.

You can install a shim. I did exactly this when I had the same issue and that fix lasted about 3 months until the reluctor swelled a bit more and a couple of "teeth" broke and I got the error again. It could be a quick fix enough to get you past (and passed) an inspection.

The speedometer will work when you have any single wheel speed sensor failure. The speedo shuts down when it has more than one speed sensor problems.

 

Thanks DH53! Did you install the shim under the sensor at the bolt or somehow at the probe side? What did you use to shim? Were you concerned about debris getting in the hole? Did you install a new sensor or shim the one that was hitting?

I think it is a good solution to get it inspected, as you said! I am also wondering if you shim it will be a good distance from the ring where it swelled, but will it now be too far from the teeth in the area that didn't swell?

 

In my case there were 3 or 4 reluctor teeth that were just touching the sensor so I knew I had exactly 0.00" of clearance there at the high spot. Not wanting to make the gap large to the teeth that were not hitting I made a shim out of 0.005" plastic. In my case I have access to plastic shim stock of various thicknesses so that part was easy. And there is nothing magic about the number, I simply wanted to add a tiny bit of clearance so it wasn't hitting. I cut a washer out of the plastic sheet with scissors, inside diameter of my plastic washer slightly larger than the barrel of the sensor. I cleaned the area pretty well with a rag, I wouldn't use anything abrasive because you make fine steel particles that will then collect on the magnetic sensor. Wipe off the sensor to get any tiny steel bits off it and then reassemble.

For reference 0.005" is about the thickness of 2 sheets of "standard" copy/printer paper. If you have any plastic sheet like a drop cloth that is a few "Mil" thick you are probably in the right ballpark. Or if you know someone who works in a machine shop these sets of shim stock are very common to them, you might ask for a 1" square.

The sensor that was getting hit by the reluctor teeth is still the sensor in the car now 3 years later. As I mentioned the reluctor will break when it swells with rust so I had to replace it. This shim is just a temporary fix but your sensor itself probably survived.