p171 p174 p1111 x-type
#1
p171 p174 p1111 x-type
Problem X-type 2.5 v6 2001 While driving, suddenly the engine check light came on and the on-board computer told me cruise control not available. I did the diagnosis and it showed p171, p174 and p1111. I cleared the errors and drove 200 km, without problems.
Today the problem came back, and on top of that the car stalls at 3000 rpm and it takes me a while to go beyond that, what's going on?
Today the problem came back, and on top of that the car stalls at 3000 rpm and it takes me a while to go beyond that, what's going on?
#2
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Don B (09-22-2024)
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#9
https://www.partsgeek.com/z3ymxbh-ja...4aAltPEALw_wcB
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/18404_...AaAtOaEALw_wcB
The O ring Pic has the part number for you to search by. The other 2, I've included websites that have the part number number for you to search by.
Last edited by Dell Gailey; 09-23-2024 at 11:09 PM.
#11
You should check those 3 areas to see if you have an air leak. SEARCH this forum for how this is accomplished (many, many posts on procedure). Then if 1 (or more) of those "big 3" have an air leak problem, replace.
Never just throw parts at a Jag problem more times than not it will hiss, and bite and scratch you.
Never just throw parts at a Jag problem more times than not it will hiss, and bite and scratch you.
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tergitkerd (09-24-2024)
#13
Not saying this is your fix, but it was my fix. I had all the same issues that you are having. I went through and replaced everything the big 3, all the O2 sensors full tuneup, everything. I didn't really mind as with 18 years and 110k miles needed to be done anyway. None of the aforementioned repairs did anything.
Below is the 90 second test you should try.
The end of May and the night before my first of three 1200 plus mile trips, i unplugged the evap elec connection and removed the vacuum line heading back to the tank. You have to do both as i did the vacuum hose first, but still had the bucking issues around 3k rpm. I then removed the elec connection and all is well. That immediately through a check engine code, but the car ran flawless and at one point in the trip i averaged 29 mpg. Since that May trip, I've been back and forth from FL to NH with no problems at all, and the car runs so smooth after a few 600 mile days at highway speed.
Now that the car is repositioned up here I would like to fix it. My question is when i throw a vacuum pump on the hose that runs to the back of the car it does not hold vacuum. Is that wrong, should it hold vacuum? Are there any known issues i should look for to cure it?
Hope this helps.
Good luck either way.
Below is the 90 second test you should try.
The end of May and the night before my first of three 1200 plus mile trips, i unplugged the evap elec connection and removed the vacuum line heading back to the tank. You have to do both as i did the vacuum hose first, but still had the bucking issues around 3k rpm. I then removed the elec connection and all is well. That immediately through a check engine code, but the car ran flawless and at one point in the trip i averaged 29 mpg. Since that May trip, I've been back and forth from FL to NH with no problems at all, and the car runs so smooth after a few 600 mile days at highway speed.
Now that the car is repositioned up here I would like to fix it. My question is when i throw a vacuum pump on the hose that runs to the back of the car it does not hold vacuum. Is that wrong, should it hold vacuum? Are there any known issues i should look for to cure it?
Hope this helps.
Good luck either way.
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