Okay guys need a little more help. This is the third post on trying to get my x type back up in shape... read older post please for more back ground (search problematic jag)
As of today this is all that I have tried:
IMT orings x2
Spark plugs x12
Coil packs x6
Upper and lower manifold gaskets x24 (2 sets of each)
Upstream bank 1 o2 sensor
Brake booster line orings x2
Cleaned MAF sensor Cleaned throttle body
And codes P1000
P0171
P0174
No acceleration (very hesitant/ almost misfire like)
HELP!!!

 

Make sure all the vacumm line is in place and snug. Obvious one is the breather hose that connect to the air intake pipe from the engine.

 

Unseen, look at the PCV hose. If you have a smooth hose, look at the underside of that hose and see if you spot a crack in the hose (it will be obvious). If that is cracked, it will cause what you are seeing. next, I would be putting a fuel pressure gauge on the car and seeing what the fuel pressure is. With the motor off, it should be up around 40-50 psi (closer to 50). With the motor running, it should be in the 30-40 psi range (closer to 40). If you are at the low end of this band or below, then your fuel pump is going or your fuel filter is clogged, resulting in loss of pressure.

The other hose that I would tell you to check is the vacuum line that is running between the top of the intake manifold and the brake booster. In the middle of that line is a bulge (check valve). The check valve is known to crack and cause issues like you are seeing.

The final thing I would tell you to look at is the wiring on the driver's side of the throttlebody. For some reason, the wiring there seems to get damaged and creates all sorts of havoc with the car.

 

Sounds like the wire from the throttle body. It is the lower one , under the air intake .It has 2 wires. Check and see if the plug is busted or a wire is fraid. Let us kno.

Thanks and Good Luck,
The Dr

 

Okay I will have more input tommorow. Calling Hennesy jaguar out of California to get that brake booster line.. as far as pcv hose is also new, sorry didn't list, it is a black ribbed hose now. The 2wire plug under throttle body is busted but still slides on and wire appear to be making good contact and have been flushed with electrical conn. Cleaner. But will double check. And will also order a fuel filter. I will get fuel pressure checked.

Weird thing is every morning the car runs good for maybe 3 min or until the speed of 35-40mph (around 3rd gear) will it begin to stutter chatter and give acceleration problems...??
But I will be back with results

 

OK so this morning checked the plug on throttle boddy(2 wire) unplugged or reversed a red caution light appears while cars running I don't think its that... but did notice increasing rpms stiffened the brake pedal... As well, the intake filter box, has 8 screws to hold top on.. the screw closest to MAF sensor or neck (far right side top if your faced towards it) is not torqued down/stripped... would this cause these problems

 

Any thoughts?

 

Unseen - You should check the 4-wire connector going into the throttle body, as well. see the attached pic.

 

I have also disconnected that connection and cleaned with electrical conn. cleaner..
here are some pic's of brake booster and filter..... I have kept it in well condition compared to previous owners (only two other owners both women... lol) I think it may be the intake filter box leaking (right corner is completely stripped out does not torque down at all) and the brake booster but you all let me know what you think...
it has been a long process...

 

another angle on check valve...

 

That thing looks like it is cracked/chipped off on that one side. From your codes you have a vacuum leak and that definitely looks like a good candidate of the cause if that is cracked. Is there some way you could maybe wrap that in duct or electrical tape to somehow seal it off and then see what you have? Hard to tell exactly from the picture, but that thing doesn't look completely smooth and round.

 

don't judge me... but I tried blowing into the tube or even sucking threw it like a straw and nothing just like its blocked off.. but I will tape it up today and see if there is any difference... will my intake box not being screwed down all the way cause problem im experiencing??

 

I wouldn't think so because it is upstream of the MAF, but I am not 100% sure. I'm sure someone much more knowledgeable than me can chime in on that. But I would think it would be similar to a cold air intake. But, if you just feel more comfortable, you can always tape that corner of the air box up real good to seal it up. You have a leak somewhere, just need to find it. The little money I have I would bet on that valve.

 

Yea I am still going to replace it. I bought new IM gasket upper and lower just in case I need to go in lol.. but I really appreciate the input! Very much so!
That check valve almost looks melted in a way...

 

Unseen, if you are trying to blow threw it and sucking through it from the same end, then your braking issue may be because of that check valve. In short, it is not allowing the vacuum from the intake to assist with the brakes, making them feel very firm.

As for the air box, it really is not much of a problem as the MAF is still down stream of that location, so, the car is not going to car how the air gets in the tube as long is it is seen by the MAF sensor.

The other thing that I would check is the flexible tube that is between the MAF Sensor and the throttlebody. See if you managed to somehow get a small rip/tear/hole in that and it is causing all your issues. Also make sure the piece is firmly seated on both the throttlebody and the MAF sensor tube. How does the wiring to the MAF sensor look? I have heard of people have issues with that wiring too.

 

Okay I will take a look today or tonight and will be back with pics... they help a lot.. so you all can see maybe what I'm missing..

Also back to the check valve (gray piece) does it come out of the black tubing? Or is the valve and black tubing one piece?? If it is one piece, how does the black tubing come off of the brake booster?. I have gotten it off the intake manifold but no luck getting it off of the booster.

 

Okay guys so I started pulling everything off the intake manifold and there is a red plastic line that is on the back side of the intake that connects to the fuel rail?? The rubber heat shield used is actual melted and busted the line... what am I looking at??

 

Unseen, from the sounds of things, you are talking about the vacuum line that controls the fuel pressure regulator (maintains the fuel rail at a constant pressure above the intake vacuum). I would say to talk with JPLV and talk to their parts guy about the vacuum line that runs between the fuel pressure regulator and the intake. He should know what you are talking about and then be able to find the part for you. I did some looking, but I can not seem to find a listing for the line.

As a temp measure, if you go to your local auto parts store, they should have a small barbed fitting that will allow you to push the ends of the hose on to the barbed fitting and get you back on the road. Worst case, stop by the hardware store and they will have a brass version of the same thing and it may even be a bit smaller to fit the line as I know that line is not all that big.

 

I have it spliced together... do I need to get codes cleared?? Tried test driving still is rough on acceleration.... while I was getting down there I checked all other lines none that are leaking no holes or tears any where (without removing the intake manifold). Or will I need to drive it longer?

 

Unseen, if the problem is cleared up (ie, no longer sensing the vacuum leak), on the 6th start, the CEL light should go out. But, that is assuming you have been able to drive it the 5 previous times without the computer seeing a problem. Other wise, you can clear the codes (removing one of the battery posts or using a reader to clear the codes) and then seeing if the code comes back. From there, we can see what we have.