Part 3 Problematic jag.
#21
Unseen, if the problem is cleared up (ie, no longer sensing the vacuum leak), on the 6th start, the CEL light should go out. But, that is assuming you have been able to drive it the 5 previous times without the computer seeing a problem. Other wise, you can clear the codes (removing one of the battery posts or using a reader to clear the codes) and then seeing if the code comes back. From there, we can see what we have.
I'll be back around the 30th.. with more info on status of car. Going out of town for brother In laws basic training grad.
#22
Unseen, if the problem is cleared up (ie, no longer sensing the vacuum leak), on the 6th start, the CEL light should go out. But, that is assuming you have been able to drive it the 5 previous times without the computer seeing a problem. Other wise, you can clear the codes (removing one of the battery posts or using a reader to clear the codes) and then seeing if the code comes back. From there, we can see what we have.
Last edited by Unseen; 09-06-2013 at 07:01 PM.
#23
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,402
Likes: 0
Received 3,899 Likes
on
3,203 Posts
#24
#25
Unseen,
You should just need to disconnect one of the terminals as this breaks the electrical circuit.
I would not think you need to disconnect it for more than a few minutes.
On the point of measuring pressures you could try an ODB II device (BLuetooth elm 327) which talks to a smart phone app (I use TORQUE), this will let you know what the ECU thinks the pressure is as well as reading the actual from a test gauge.
Cheers
Caggers.
You should just need to disconnect one of the terminals as this breaks the electrical circuit.
I would not think you need to disconnect it for more than a few minutes.
On the point of measuring pressures you could try an ODB II device (BLuetooth elm 327) which talks to a smart phone app (I use TORQUE), this will let you know what the ECU thinks the pressure is as well as reading the actual from a test gauge.
Cheers
Caggers.
The following users liked this post:
Unseen (09-07-2013)
#26
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,402
Likes: 0
Received 3,899 Likes
on
3,203 Posts
Unseen, I would recommend disconnecting the negative post (that way, if you accidentally touch the motor or body of the car, you will not draw any electrical sparks) and then leave it disconnected for about 30 seconds. By then, any residual charges inside anything will have worn off and all memory will have been erased.
The following users liked this post:
Unseen (09-07-2013)
#27
Unseen, I would recommend disconnecting the negative post (that way, if you accidentally touch the motor or body of the car, you will not draw any electrical sparks) and then leave it disconnected for about 30 seconds. By then, any residual charges inside anything will have worn off and all memory will have been erased.
It will allow time for pieces to come in I also order an obd2 elm 327 Bluetooth so I can read my codes and check fuel pressure. I will update asap with more info. I appreciate all who have responded on this thread ESPECIALLY you Chris "Thermo"! (:
If it wasnt for all of you my wife would make me get rid of this trouble some car. but a long the way I have learned tremendously from it!
#28
Unseen, I would recommend disconnecting the negative post (that way, if you accidentally touch the motor or body of the car, you will not draw any electrical sparks) and then leave it disconnected for about 30 seconds. By then, any residual charges inside anything will have worn off and all memory will have been erased.
#29
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,402
Likes: 0
Received 3,899 Likes
on
3,203 Posts
Unseen, if the idle is bouncing back and forth, then that is sounding like either a sticking throttlebody (ie, have a problem with the throttlebody) or you IAC valve is sticking. At this point, probably best to see what a professional shop says and go from there. I hate to say that, but we are venturing into territory that something with a lot of diagnostics is going to be needed before you just start replacing expensive parts just because.
#30
Unseen, if the idle is bouncing back and forth, then that is sounding like either a sticking throttlebody (ie, have a problem with the throttlebody) or you IAC valve is sticking. At this point, probably best to see what a professional shop says and go from there. I hate to say that, but we are venturing into territory that something with a lot of diagnostics is going to be needed before you just start replacing expensive parts just because.
#31
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,402
Likes: 0
Received 3,899 Likes
on
3,203 Posts
#34
#35
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,402
Likes: 0
Received 3,899 Likes
on
3,203 Posts
#36
OK. Question thermo or thread viewers. I have an OBDII reader and reset codes to monitor status of what would populate first. I get the P0175 probly 1-5mi before the P0171 code populates. Does thee help determine what is going on with my car? Do you any suggestions?
#37
P0175-> Left-hand bank combustion too rich.
-Restricted air filter
-Leaking fuel injector(s)
-Fuel pressure sensor failure (high fuel pressure)
-ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components; ECT sensor, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, IP sensor,
-EFT sensor, TP sensor
P0171→ Right-hand bank combustion too lean
-Engine misfire
-Air intake leak between MAF sensor and throttle
-Fuel injector restriction
-Fuel filter/system restriction
-Fuel pressure sensor failure (low fuel pressure)
-Low fuel pump output
-HO2S (1/1; 1/2) harness wiring condition fault
-Exhaust leak (before catalyst)
-ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components; ECT sensor, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, IP sensor, EFT sensor, TP sensor
My money is on a leak somewhere in the system. You can try to find the leak my getting a cigar, lighting it, and blowing smoke into your vacuum system; where the smoke comes out, bamo that’s where your leak is. I’ve found lots of leaks using this method for different clients.
Here’s a youtube.com video from my man Scotty Kilmer, check it out.
-Restricted air filter
-Leaking fuel injector(s)
-Fuel pressure sensor failure (high fuel pressure)
-ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components; ECT sensor, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, IP sensor,
-EFT sensor, TP sensor
P0171→ Right-hand bank combustion too lean
-Engine misfire
-Air intake leak between MAF sensor and throttle
-Fuel injector restriction
-Fuel filter/system restriction
-Fuel pressure sensor failure (low fuel pressure)
-Low fuel pump output
-HO2S (1/1; 1/2) harness wiring condition fault
-Exhaust leak (before catalyst)
-ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components; ECT sensor, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, IP sensor, EFT sensor, TP sensor
My money is on a leak somewhere in the system. You can try to find the leak my getting a cigar, lighting it, and blowing smoke into your vacuum system; where the smoke comes out, bamo that’s where your leak is. I’ve found lots of leaks using this method for different clients.
Here’s a youtube.com video from my man Scotty Kilmer, check it out.
#38
P0175-> Left-hand bank combustion too rich.
-Restricted air filter
-Leaking fuel injector(s)
-Fuel pressure sensor failure (high fuel pressure)
-ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components; ECT sensor, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, IP sensor,
-EFT sensor, TP sensor
P0171→ Right-hand bank combustion too lean
-Engine misfire
-Air intake leak between MAF sensor and throttle
-Fuel injector restriction
-Fuel filter/system restriction
-Fuel pressure sensor failure (low fuel pressure)
-Low fuel pump output
-HO2S (1/1; 1/2) harness wiring condition fault
-Exhaust leak (before catalyst)
-ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components; ECT sensor, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, IP sensor, EFT sensor, TP sensor
My money is on a leak somewhere in the system. You can try to find the leak my getting a cigar, lighting it, and blowing smoke into your vacuum system; where the smoke comes out, bamo that’s where your leak is. I’ve found lots of leaks using this method for different clients.
Here’s a youtube.com video from my man Scotty Kilmer, check it out.
Finding Engine Vacuum Leaks With A Cigar - YouTube
-Restricted air filter
-Leaking fuel injector(s)
-Fuel pressure sensor failure (high fuel pressure)
-ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components; ECT sensor, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, IP sensor,
-EFT sensor, TP sensor
P0171→ Right-hand bank combustion too lean
-Engine misfire
-Air intake leak between MAF sensor and throttle
-Fuel injector restriction
-Fuel filter/system restriction
-Fuel pressure sensor failure (low fuel pressure)
-Low fuel pump output
-HO2S (1/1; 1/2) harness wiring condition fault
-Exhaust leak (before catalyst)
-ECM receiving incorrect signal from one or more of the following components; ECT sensor, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, IP sensor, EFT sensor, TP sensor
My money is on a leak somewhere in the system. You can try to find the leak my getting a cigar, lighting it, and blowing smoke into your vacuum system; where the smoke comes out, bamo that’s where your leak is. I’ve found lots of leaks using this method for different clients.
Here’s a youtube.com video from my man Scotty Kilmer, check it out.
Finding Engine Vacuum Leaks With A Cigar - YouTube
I did notice that my fuel pressure drops when I cut off the car.
When the car is on it idles between 365kpa to 390kpa
But
When car is off it drops to 300kpa.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Thang Nguyen
X-Type ( X400 )
4
10-12-2015 01:25 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)