I have searched and searched and have got no where. I don't know where to start. I bought the car used. It had a bunch of problems. I changed all sorts of parts of the ABS system and nothing helped. I finally put in some Blue Devil head gasket repair. At one point, my reservoir cap blew off and the whole coolant system blew all over the engine bay. I don't see any melted wires, but it still is a concern. I only mention the ABS system because after all the research I did, nothing suggested a bad head gasket could cause braking issues. Plus that stuff was inside the coolant as it blew all over.

Okay. So upon trying to get the brakes to unlock, I had installed an aftermarket head unit. I have don't head uni installs a couple dozen times. I understand not all cars behave the same. Such as this car. There was absolutely no sound coming out. I seen articles where people say you need a special cable, and others saying that is bs. I have no idea if there was a check engine light before or after this. The original setup included some after market XM radio box. Perhaps this problem predates my time with the car, but I don't know. Anyways. So new unit, no sound. Fast forward. Everything was going fine, until it wasnt... The car started up fine, about a minute later, the gauges all stopped working, except the fuel gauge. There are some lights that came on. All around the brakes, TCS, ABS, ect. I tried checking the fuses. I can't find a problem with the fuses. However, checking for voltage any where in that box, 2 fuses show power. The rest show absolutely no power. Which of course makes me more concerned than the speedometer not working. If it was only that, I drive back roads and its about a 15 minute drive to where I need to go. I'm actually more concerned certain systems are not working because there seems to be no power at the fuses. The battery is showing it (the alternator) is a little high. About 15.5 volts. I didn't even try the voltage drop because I already know the alternator seems to have a bad diode. I am guessing based on voltage. Typical cars shouldn't be that high, so I can't imagine this car is any different. About 4 months ago, I had it scanned and it threw a can bus code. I forget what it was. I rather not drive this to Autozone when... well the fuses issue. The car has had intermittent no start issues. It resembled a car not in park or like the car isn't recognizing the key. I have replaced both brake switches. I doubt that is the problem but could be. So I am not sure what's going on but leaning on the can bus. I'm guessing there is a specific device, like an ecu, that houses a central module for wires to come in and out. This was based on what the guy at Autozone said back then. I know most of them aren't real mechanics but he claimed to know a decent amount on the X-type and said it wasn't uncommon but super expensive to repair. More than the car is worth.

I bought a newer car. Certified used. $20k. Less than a month in, the motor blew. The dealership will not repair it. The motor is $8k in repair bills. This car is not worth it. It cost me a job and been unemployed for 5 weeks. I'm suppose to start a new job Monday, and now the Jag is acting up. Needless to say, I'm desperate. Although I have learned forums aren't as active as they use to be. Any help is greatly appreciated. I know I kind of jumped around but let me know what other information you need.

2005 X-Type 3.0

 

Greyfox, from the sounds of things, I would be looking at the wiring around the radio as the source of your problem. From what you describe, you have damaged the CAN Bus wiring. If I had to take a guess, you probably scraped the insulation against a sharp edge and with the car idling and vibrating slightly, it chewed through the insulation. That should hopefully be nothing more than finding where the wiring is damaged and simply taping up the damaged wires.

Unfortunately, for a problem like this, you would need a SDD computer to check the CAN bus. That would tell you between which 2 modules you have the fault. But, based on recent work, the radio is your most likely culprit.

 

I will take a closer look. After writing that, I took the radio fully out and don't see a problem, but it was a quick look and I expected to see an obvious tear in the insulation. The XM receiver was wired through the back of some of the factory harness, but I just pulled them out and thought nothing of it. In hind sight, maybe that is causing an incorrect connection, too. Thank you for the suggestion. I will be back if I find anything.
Information I didn't add to the original post. I know I had issues with the ABS system when I bought the car. Bought a new (to me) module. Didn't help. Bought another one. Still nothing. Sent it to a company in the UK. They verified the module was good. Reinstalled. Still had all the lights. Like I said. The can bus issue could have been before the radio. The battery was mostly disconnected and when I would turn it on, drive it a bit, the wheels would lock up. ABS light, DCS light, brake light would come on and the check engine. I never had it scanned. I just assumed that was all brake related.


Future edit: I seen no wires behind the radio that is bare wire. However, there was the ground wire going to the cigarette (auxiliary power) port that was spliced into. It was taped up though. I am not a fan of this method but the wires weren't fully cut through. Either way, it wasn't bare. I still don't understand why only 2 out of, about, 30 fuses have power, and none are broke.

 

Upon further inspection. So I drove it anyways. I got it checked. A million and one codes codes up. What lead me to continue driving was half of the cluster started working. Lights turned off. Then shut down. Turned back on. Back off. Clearly a connection issue some where. I got some codes such as misfire on 2,3, and 5. Blah blah. I know that is not the problem. I would notice a misfire. I tried to get the guy to understand what I was after and he didn't. So I asked him to tell me some of the bizarre things he seen. (It wasn't Autozone so he couldn't print the list off. I'm suppose to have the memory of an elephant and remember them all... 🤦‍♂️) I got a couple that stood out. P1642 and p1647. I have seen some write ups about those. I just have a hard time understanding how those are my problems. I mean on the bigger scope of things. Maybe they are. I will look into replacing things. But all in all. I was driving. Tach never came back and the coolant light stayed on (saying it wasnt not reading a temperatureat all). Speedometer came back, the brake light turned off, ABS light turned off. I stopped to browse the internet. Turned the AC on, and everything came back to working. So I left. I turned the AC back off and nothing happened. I mean AC turned off but nothing else did. So 🤷‍♂️ Again, there is a short somewhere but I am starting to think the ABS system maybe the fault or a wheel speed sensor. Being the first sign of life was the doors actually locked, at a random time. I would say I was going 45 mph and tried to stay pretty consistent. Maybe 5 minutes at that speed, doors randomly locked. SHE ISSSSS ALIIIIIIVE!!! Anyways. So kept driving. Check OBD Codes. Drove another 1/4 mile, stopped to browse the web and this is when I turned the AC on. That's when the rest of the story catches back up. So I finish my interview. Go to leave. Cars starts right up, no lights, coolant gauge is finally working, I have a tachometer now. I'm not expecting that to stay that way but wow... What fun. 😁😳😶😑