Hi guys, its been quite a while, I've missed you. 😊 I'm going to try and get to the point (points) without rambling, but theres so much going on that I don't know where to start. First of all the 02 XType 3.0 has been sitting in the driveway for almost two years without being started. WAIT! Don't shoot me. I've had a lot going on. Anyway, my DD needs some extensive work so I decided to resurrect the Jag for the duration. I didn't even try to jump it, just bought a new battery, and tried my luck. She tried to turn over, but no. After about 15 minutes of trying to crank it my daughter-in-law said "is there gas in it?" DOH! Dont I feel stupid. We put in 2 gallons, the needle didn't move, wouldn't start. Had to buy a bigger gas can and after 5 more gallons it was at 1/4 tank, but still not starting. The next day, while we were all at work I had my mechanic(not Jag mechanic) make a house call, and he deduced that it was the fuel pump. Since I wasnt there I don't know what he did to diagnose it, but I trust him. I can't afford to drop the tank, so had him cut a hole in the floor. Princess is now back up and running, but with issues. The sun fried the right (passenger in the US) side of the car, so the marker lenses crumble in your hands, the plastic center console is melted and sticky like tar, and I think something was living under the hood because it looked like a nest with leaves, dirt, spider webs....ewww. Then there were the REAL problems; none of the lights on the right side worked. I found fuse F63 blown, problem solved, except the headlight. Turns out the headlight bulb was fused to the housing (I rewired it; its working). Now, my dash looks like a Christmas tree. ABS light and DSC System Fault comes on and off. And my turn signals are schizoid, they don't work when I press the brake. Instead of the left or right signal that I've selected blinking, when I brake, both sides, both tail lights and the third brake light all blink dimly. Also, the yellow foglight indicator on the dash comes on and sometimes flashes. Mind you, the turn signals work fine as long as the brake is not depressed. My son has apparently misplaced the OBDII scanner I gave him several Christmases ago, so I can't pull the codes, and my local AutoZones scanner shows there are codes but can't read them(could it be because they are TCM codes?). I also sometimes notice a "popping" sound AND vibration at the gear shifter with each blink of the turn signal. Please don't tell me my gear box is failing. No hesitation when driving and it seems to be shifting fine. I think those are my main concerns for now, so put on your thinking caps guys and help a girl out. 😊

 

Queen, before going too far into things, I want you to check something. Go to the rear tail lights and pull the connector off of both tail lights. Look at the pins. Are they all silver or is one of them dark in color (brown to black, kinda rusty looking)? If so, take a small screw driver (or nail file) and gently scrub that pin to get it back to silver and then reconnect everything to see what your brake lights do now.

As for the DSC and ABS lights, odds are your critter got to the wheel sensor wires. Just to ask a silly question (you don't mention this), does your speedo work normally? If yes, then my theory is wrong. Do your brakes feel normal? Ie, don't need excessive force to push, if you are on a slippery surface, you can feel the pedal pulse slightly as the system tries to apply the ABS.

One other thing. The fog light indicator is telling me that your ground point for your marker lights is probably needing cleaning. If you pull out the marker light on the right side, you should see an orange wire with a green stripe and a black wire. Follow the black wire back to where you should see 2 or 3 more wires meet up with it and odds are will be at a point where it gets bolted to the frame of the car. Remove this bolt and clean all the lugs there to return them to a silver color (nail file will work wonders here, otherwise, a kitchen scouring pad will work too). Reattach the lugs once they are cleaned (on both sides) and make sure not to forget about the spot where the lugs touch the frame of the car. That should solve that issue.

 

Heeyy Thermo!
I knew you would be the first to charge to my rescue. To answer your question, the speedometer works perfectly. And I haven't really noticed any handling/braking issues, but we've had dry weather so no opportunity for skidding. But now that I think about it, I did have the pulsing once when I had to jam on the brakes.

Also, I forgot to mention that my emergency brake is not working. Pull all the way, lever stays up, but nothing. I could drive 100kph with it like that with no problem. Not sure if that has anything to do with all this.

I will check those pins and wiring after work, and I'll let you know.
Thanks,
Regina

 

Queen, the e-brake is a common issue. One of your rear calipers has a frozen e-brake lever. If you pull the wheel, you will see where one side the lever will be leaning towards the front bumper, the other will be towards the rear bumper. The one leaning forward is our problem child. Most likely require a new caliper unless you buy some specialty tools and rebuild the caliper (I have a post on the site that tells you how to, but the first time it will be about $50 in tools/parts).

Get the codes read to see what is triggering the CEL. Graned, I have a feeling that you are going to find that it is going to be a wheel speed sensor (C1145, C1155, C1165, or C1175). That one problem would explain all the lights that you are seeing.

Thinking about it, because of your brake light issue, that is most likely causing your rattle/buzz in the center console. In short, what is happening is that when you tap the brakes, it causes a solenoid to release in the center console to let you shift out of park. Because of the problem you have, this solenoid is not getting full voltage, so, it is buzzing. Fix the rear tail light issue and that should fix this buzzing too.

On a side note, if you look on E-bay/Amazon, look up "Elm 327 OBD". That will be a little bluetooth device that you can plug into the OBD port and using an Android phone, you can read the codes yourself. They are like $20. I keep one in the car all the time since it is so small. You will want the V1.8 version, not the V2.1 version. The V2.1 version will not play nice with your car. Then you simply need to download a free app onto your phone called "Torque". It will give you lots of useful information.

 

@ Thermo, weird, mine was the exact opposite. Bought a $20 Foseal ELM, wouldn't work on my 06 Jag. Downloaded a program that read version #. It was a v 1.8, I returned it, bought a $30, bafx one v 2.1 that works.

 

Hey Thermo,
You were right as usual. The pins in the tail light assembly were corroded, and the connector is even melted at the ground wire on both sides. I cleaned off the pins and no more crazy lights!!!! The foglight indicator even stopped flashing. But the fuse that controls the right side lights (F63) keeps blowing. Can I replace the 7.5amp fuse with a 10 to keep it from blowing?

I haven't had a chance to clean the ground point yet; I found the wires but looks like I'll have to raise the car or remove the bumper to reach the bolt. Also haven't had a chance to pull the codes but probably this weekend.

Also, drove 15 miles to work in rush hour traffic and the ABS and DSC lights didn't return until I braked hard and made sharp turn of the wheel to swing into a parkng spot. I did feel the pulsing then.

One more concern. Do I need to replace the taillight connector since its melted,




or am I ok as long as its working?

Thanks again for all your help. 😊

 

Queen, if you can, take a scribe or some other item and scratch the inside of the connector to clean it up as much as possible. Worst case, you may need to cut the pins off of the wiring and solder in new pins. You should be able to get the pins at your local auto parts place. There is only a few styles, it is the plastic part that is unique. May need to get a pin extraction kit which is like $10 at a parts store to get the pins out of the connector. Then it is just a matter of making sure that you get the correct color wires back in the correct holes.

As for upping the size of the fuse. That is not a good idea. What I would tell you to do is to pull the bulbs for the side that is blowing the fuse (all of the running lights, front and rear). Now, put in a new fuse. Does the fuse blow now when you turn on the running lights? If yes, then you have either a bad bulb base (seem to recall you were complaining about the right front bulb base having issues, if so, replace that then see what you have) or there is a wiring short. If not, then install the bulbs one at a time until the fuse blows. The bulb that blows the fuse is your problem child. Tell me which one and I can give clues as to how to fix. You will need to remove:

-headlight marker light
-right front repeater light
-right rear repeater light
-the 2 running lights in the tail light

As for your ABS light, it is kinda sounding like you have a bad ABS reluctance ring in the rear. But, lets get the codes before we start just replacing stuff.

 

Ok Thermo,
First of all THANKS so much for recommending the ELM327, it works perfectly. I didn't find a 1.8 but I got the 1.5 on eBay for $4.99 and downloaded Torque Lite for free. I'm a little ticked off that I paid $120 each for scanners for both my son's that they don't even use, but oh well. The codes are P0193 and C1155 and a pending code P1000.

The main issue remaining is the ABS and DSC System Fault warnings when I turn sharply.
I haven't had time to check those rear calipers for the e brake issue yet but I'll get to it soon. Probably need to deal with that at the sane time if my issue is the reluctor ring, right?

All my crazy dash lights and possessed turn signals and brakes and blown fuses are already solved. Fuse was blowing because the right marker light was ripped away by a tire blowout my son had when he was driving the car and exposed wires were shorting the fuse; taped the ends until I replace the light- no more blown fuse. Thanks again. You are a Jaguar God!

 

As you know, the P1000 is just from resetting fault codes and means drive cycles not completed to change to P1111 (all ok).

https://www.google.com/amp/s/repairp...code-P0193.amp

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.aut...des/c1155.html

 

Queen, if you are only getting the code when you turn, then I would be looking at the connector or wiring going to the ABS sensor on the left front wheel. It may be something as simple as replacing the ABS sensor and that code will go away. Worst case, you may have to replace the wheel bearing. If you want to test the sensor, let me know. Fairly easy to do.

As for the P0193 code, I will need to do a little more research into that. But, I seem to remember you having some critters under the hood and I would start looking in the engine bay on the passenger side to see if you have a wire or two that has some chew marks on it. I want to say that you want to look down near the IMT valves, right on top of the engine.

 

Thanks for the links Dell. I see that the P0193 can be triggered by.....

Defective Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor
Defective Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit or connector
Damaged/Defective Fuel pressure regulator

And,
Common Misdiagnoses

Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor is replaced when the cause is a defective Fuel Pressure Regulator
Fuel Rail pressure Sensor is replaced when the cause is a defective fuel pump
Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor is replaced when the cause is a poor connection or chafed wiring

Since they just replaced the Fuel Pump, could that have anything to do with it?

I did not clear the codes. Should I do that and see if the codes return?

Yes Thermo, I would like to test the sensor. What do I do?

 

Queen, you will need to remove the wheel and then remove the wheel speed sensor. Now, using a multimeter, set it to read VDC on the 2V scale and connect the leads to the pins in the plug. Now, this is where you need to be careful and you may want to build up to doing things bigger and faster. But, what you are going to do is to take a large, metal object (large screw driver, piece of pipe, etc) and swing it past the end of the sensor. The closer and faster that you move the piece of metal to the sensor, the more the multimeter is going to jump (ie, change voltage). Granted, I think it goes without saying, you don't want to hit the end of the sensor as you may damage it.

As long as you see the multimeter change, then odds are the sensor is fine. I would also give the cabling a once over to make sure that it is not damaged (ie, the exterior is intact and the cable doesn't make any weird/sudden bends. Make sure to check the cable as far back as you can as the damage may be inside the engine bay.