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I have been following this website for a few weeks now, since I bought my jag. Here's where I currently stand.
Fault Codes:
C1145 - Wheel speed from right input circuit failure
C1175 - Wheel speed rear left input - circuit failure.
P1260 - Security Input
P1582 - Flight recorder data is stored
P1629 - Generator front right line failure
C1175 - Wheel speed rear left input - circuit failure
C1234 - Front right wheel speed signal comparison fault
U2197 - Invalid vehicle speed data
U2200 - Invalid data for rolling odometer count
B1202 - Fuel sender: circuit open
B1317 - Battery voltage high
B1205 - Switch-1 assembly circuit failure
B1318 - Battery voltage low
U2510 - CAN - invalid data for vehicle security
U1900 - CAN communications bus fault
U2511 - CAN - data mis-match (receive data does not match expected)
B2879 - Fuel tank jet pump fault
B1259 - Solar radiation sensor- circuit open
B1262 - Defrost servo motor - circuit failure
B1239 - Air flow blend door actuator - circuit failure
B1263 - Vent servo motor - circuit failure
B1242 - Recirculating air flow door actuator - circuit failure
B2308 - In car temperature sensor inlet motor failure
B1676 - Battery voltage out of range
B2496 - Anti-theft horn circuit - short to ground
C1445 - Speed vehicle signal circuit failure
B2555 - Courtesy lamp circuit - short to battery
B2290 - Occupant classification system status, front passenger side
Messages:
DSC System Fault: Consistently
Low Temperature: Consistently (This one may just be operating normal. I'm from the Midwest so it is cold outside)
Cruise not available: Sometimes (Although cruise never works properly)
Dash Lights:
Check Engine: ON
ABS: ON
Issues I have noticed while driving:
Brakes are sometimes stiff to push when it's cold. This usually goes away after a few minutes of driving.
Idle is a little rough when the brakes are stiff
For the first time today, I could not go past 3000 rpm when entering the highway. I had to pull over, wait a second, then I was able to climb past 3000 rpm. I did not have a problem after that.
There's also an acidic odor in the coolant. The only maintenance I have done since buying this car (I bought this car a few weeks ago) is replacing the battery. I have not been able to read the codes since I changed the battery. I received a P1000 code which means I have to run a series of tasks to reset the codes.
So at this point I am not sure where to start. I bought this car for $2200 and I am starting my first year of graduate school, so I would like for it to last the entire duration. I want to do the repairs myself to minimize cost.
If someone could provide some guidance I would be incredibly grateful.
Regardless of whatever else may be found, the most likely culprit for this unbelievably long list of faults is the battery itself. A battery below its full charge level will cause multiple random faults in these cars. Make sure the battery is new and fully charged (they are very rarely fully charged when installed), clear the codes (as many as can be cleared by your OBDII unit) and see what happens
I have absolutely no tools so I ordered a pair of long-nose pliers to remove fuses. Once I have the pliers I will check the fuses. The R2 and R4 relays are missing. R2 = Windshield heater relay and R4 = Accessory Power Relay.
Just a suggestion, update your signature with info = year, engine, etc. It helps others to assist you. Example = fuses, different location and number pre 2004+ to after 2004+. And a genuine OBD reader is nearly a must when owning these cars. I bought one that was supposed to be a Foseal but was a clone knockoff and didn't work. Fought with vendor it was even advertised as a V 2.0 (mfg year determines version) & was a V 1.5 to return and get refund.
Btw, your Graduate program @ Friends by chance?
Last edited by Dell Gailey; 01-31-2019 at 04:59 PM.
Hi There,
More than likely the car dropped into Limp Home Mode. This can be induced I believe by the Trouble Code P0174 AutoZone got for you. After the suggested repairs have been made get that code cleared and see if theres and recurrence.
Cheers,
Cubist
I just checked under the hood and this is what I found. Comments on each individual photo is under the intended photo.
Something leaking down by breather hose?
This was loose so I tightened it.
No comment.
No comment.
No comment.
Valve appears to be cracked in the middle and leaking on one end.
Cracked and chipped valve.
Leak down by the breathing hose.
Yup, even though you have the better ribbed replacement hose on the PCV, if you can hear air it needs attention. The cracked and leaking brake booster valve needs replacing. To remove it from the throttle body, you press down on the OUTER ring and it releases the pipe (not the metal ring). Those are 2 of the few most common vacuum leaks as noted above. An easy test is start cold car (because you don't want heat with this), spray a touch of starter fluid (hence not hot car, lol) @ each of the areas that I posted as possible vacuum leaks. You'll hear the idle change if there is a problem.
I did the starter fluid test and found a definite leak where the brake valve is cracked and leaking. When I sprayed the starter fluid on the base of the breather hose, where the breather hose is leaking, I heard a "pop". I'm not sure what that means. It means there's a leak, correct? I posted a pic where I sprayed on the breather hose.
01-31-2019 | 03:19 PM
Quite a few issues - not sure where to start
