Radiator Fan Stays Running
#1
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Radiator Fan Stays Running
Hi everyone,
I have recently run into a little trouble with my 2002 X-Type 3.0.
The issue is that the radiator fan stays running after the car is turned off. the fan stays running until the battery is completely drained. This issue did not just start. The fan would stay on long after the car was turned off and then eventually turn off 5 or 10 minutes later. Recently, however, the fan just stays on indefinitely.
There are four possible causes that the dealership suggested:
1. Thermostat is not functioning properly
2. Electrical system has a short circuit
3. Radiator fan relay is not functioning properly
4. Radiator fan module needs replacement
Could someone please inform me as to whether any of the aforementioned causes are the source of the problem, or whether there may be another cause not listed?
Also, is there any way to disconnect the radiator fan from the battery whenever I turn the car off? This would be a temporary solution of course.
I sincerely thank you in advance for your time and consideration in this matter.
NN
I have recently run into a little trouble with my 2002 X-Type 3.0.
The issue is that the radiator fan stays running after the car is turned off. the fan stays running until the battery is completely drained. This issue did not just start. The fan would stay on long after the car was turned off and then eventually turn off 5 or 10 minutes later. Recently, however, the fan just stays on indefinitely.
There are four possible causes that the dealership suggested:
1. Thermostat is not functioning properly
2. Electrical system has a short circuit
3. Radiator fan relay is not functioning properly
4. Radiator fan module needs replacement
Could someone please inform me as to whether any of the aforementioned causes are the source of the problem, or whether there may be another cause not listed?
Also, is there any way to disconnect the radiator fan from the battery whenever I turn the car off? This would be a temporary solution of course.
I sincerely thank you in advance for your time and consideration in this matter.
NN
Last edited by BALTVISTA; 10-01-2009 at 03:18 PM.
#2
Join Date: May 2008
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BaltVista, you can pull fuse #25 to de-energize the fan module, which will de-energize the fans.
I would be placing money that you are having a problem with the fan control module. What you can do is access the fan control module and find the white/blue wire on the fan control module. If you connect a multimeter to this wire and set the multimeter to measure DC voltage, you should get a voltage that is relative to the percent on that the fan is. If you are getting zero voltage (with the motor off) but the fans are still running, then that confirms a bad fan control module. If you are getting 12 VDC, then you are looking at either the motor running warm and the fans are running to help cool it down (but this should only take a few minutes at most) or you have a problem with the engine management computer (bad temp input or failure inside the computer). If your dash temp guage is still indicating normally, then you can rule out the bad temp sensor.
If you need more information, let me know and I will do what I can.
I would be placing money that you are having a problem with the fan control module. What you can do is access the fan control module and find the white/blue wire on the fan control module. If you connect a multimeter to this wire and set the multimeter to measure DC voltage, you should get a voltage that is relative to the percent on that the fan is. If you are getting zero voltage (with the motor off) but the fans are still running, then that confirms a bad fan control module. If you are getting 12 VDC, then you are looking at either the motor running warm and the fans are running to help cool it down (but this should only take a few minutes at most) or you have a problem with the engine management computer (bad temp input or failure inside the computer). If your dash temp guage is still indicating normally, then you can rule out the bad temp sensor.
If you need more information, let me know and I will do what I can.
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EBLNT (03-09-2017)
#3
i would check the thermostat,wile your doing that see the condition of the hose (upper) that he thermostat is attached to the base gasket leaks and has a high failure rate,the fan modules on the early x type had issues since day 1,but that was a over heating issue,also good time to check the water pump and any other coolant leaks
#5
@BALTVISTA I would tend to agree with Thermo, because he's the man. But, I would like to know how full the expansion tank is. Is there still coolant in it, or is it all drained out? (It's the tank that sits on the upper right hand corner of your engine compartment, check it and see what the level is…)
@cliffbarr1 how long has it been going on? You can wire your fans to come on when you start the engine. If someone has wired them direct, when you turn your car to "on", not "start", the fans will kick on. Or you have a bad Fan Module, or a leak in the coolant system… something along those lines.
@cliffbarr1 how long has it been going on? You can wire your fans to come on when you start the engine. If someone has wired them direct, when you turn your car to "on", not "start", the fans will kick on. Or you have a bad Fan Module, or a leak in the coolant system… something along those lines.
#6
03 X,2.5
coolant level went down EVERY slowly(inch over 3 months or more). Took the wife to the Doc, 20 miles. went to leave no heater,20 miles home engine temp.barely got to normal but finally did, it never over heated, put her in the garage(car) radiator fan ran for over 5 mins.. Doesn't usually run after shut off.coolant bottle was empty.So remove bottle, found nipple cracked on left side in front of hose clamp.I then cut off nipple at boss, drilled,tapped hole, put in a brass screw in nipple then epoxied around complete area, after it set up reinstalled bottle filled it up and ran it till it was pressurized, so far so good.My only concern is that the brass will expand and contract at a different rate from the plastic and loosen up, I'll have to keep a eye on it
coolant level went down EVERY slowly(inch over 3 months or more). Took the wife to the Doc, 20 miles. went to leave no heater,20 miles home engine temp.barely got to normal but finally did, it never over heated, put her in the garage(car) radiator fan ran for over 5 mins.. Doesn't usually run after shut off.coolant bottle was empty.So remove bottle, found nipple cracked on left side in front of hose clamp.I then cut off nipple at boss, drilled,tapped hole, put in a brass screw in nipple then epoxied around complete area, after it set up reinstalled bottle filled it up and ran it till it was pressurized, so far so good.My only concern is that the brass will expand and contract at a different rate from the plastic and loosen up, I'll have to keep a eye on it
#7
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#8
Baltvista
If the fan is running after you shut the car OFF it means the temp. sensor thinks it's still to hot regardless what the gauge says, we need to know the coolant level first and foremost then Two things: #1- if the coolant level is very low after you shut the motor off the super heated coolant rushes back to the radiator and upper block triggering the fan to run on until it's satisfied the sensor. and IF you have a weak battery it will kill it to the point it won't restart the car. #2 your fan relay is already at battery voltage it just needs to be told to turn on by a control circuit(a temp. sensor, module, ect..The module controls components by giving them a ground path to turn on.hence the shorted wire theory OR the fan relay is stuck shut (contacts welded shut). In the relay box under the hood pull and swap the relay with one from say the lights( don't put the original one in until you see if it helps)then turn on the ignition then off and see if the fans run.If the fans run on a COLD engine and you plug in the relay and it clicks it;s working AND being TOLD to turn on by 1. temp sensor,2.module,3.shorted or pinched wire. Another test , with the fans running pull the fan relay, see if they stop to eliminate a alternate power source to them, (melted connector, ect.)If it was the thermostat open or stuck shut you would see that on the temp gauge or the heater would be a cold blast.A good scan tool will tell you module problems, engine actual temp. and more and cheaper than $110.00/Hr.
If the fan is running after you shut the car OFF it means the temp. sensor thinks it's still to hot regardless what the gauge says, we need to know the coolant level first and foremost then Two things: #1- if the coolant level is very low after you shut the motor off the super heated coolant rushes back to the radiator and upper block triggering the fan to run on until it's satisfied the sensor. and IF you have a weak battery it will kill it to the point it won't restart the car. #2 your fan relay is already at battery voltage it just needs to be told to turn on by a control circuit(a temp. sensor, module, ect..The module controls components by giving them a ground path to turn on.hence the shorted wire theory OR the fan relay is stuck shut (contacts welded shut). In the relay box under the hood pull and swap the relay with one from say the lights( don't put the original one in until you see if it helps)then turn on the ignition then off and see if the fans run.If the fans run on a COLD engine and you plug in the relay and it clicks it;s working AND being TOLD to turn on by 1. temp sensor,2.module,3.shorted or pinched wire. Another test , with the fans running pull the fan relay, see if they stop to eliminate a alternate power source to them, (melted connector, ect.)If it was the thermostat open or stuck shut you would see that on the temp gauge or the heater would be a cold blast.A good scan tool will tell you module problems, engine actual temp. and more and cheaper than $110.00/Hr.
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skrichard (11-18-2013)
#9
#12
#13
#15
#16
My "better half" has a 1999 XK8 convertible (55,000mi) that just started doing something similar to what was described in this thread. Turn on heat, shortly thereafter very loud fan noise from engine starts up, and I do mean loud. Sometimes it will stop, then start again, sometimes it will keep running whole time while driving even after heater turned off, sometimes runs on after car is turned off and of course battery runs down. Car did over heat on Saturday too. So where would you recommend I start first with trying to id the problem?
#18
BaltVista, you can pull fuse #25 to de-energize the fan module, which will de-energize the fans.
I would be placing money that you are having a problem with the fan control module. What you can do is access the fan control module and find the white/blue wire on the fan control module. If you connect a multimeter to this wire and set the multimeter to measure DC voltage, you should get a voltage that is relative to the percent on that the fan is. If you are getting zero voltage (with the motor off) but the fans are still running, then that confirms a bad fan control module. If you are getting 12 VDC, then you are looking at either the motor running warm and the fans are running to help cool it down (but this should only take a few minutes at most) or you have a problem with the engine management computer (bad temp input or failure inside the computer). If your dash temp guage is still indicating normally, then you can rule out the bad temp sensor.
If you need more information, let me know and I will do what I can.
I would be placing money that you are having a problem with the fan control module. What you can do is access the fan control module and find the white/blue wire on the fan control module. If you connect a multimeter to this wire and set the multimeter to measure DC voltage, you should get a voltage that is relative to the percent on that the fan is. If you are getting zero voltage (with the motor off) but the fans are still running, then that confirms a bad fan control module. If you are getting 12 VDC, then you are looking at either the motor running warm and the fans are running to help cool it down (but this should only take a few minutes at most) or you have a problem with the engine management computer (bad temp input or failure inside the computer). If your dash temp guage is still indicating normally, then you can rule out the bad temp sensor.
If you need more information, let me know and I will do what I can.
Wayne
#19
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Wayne, before you go too crazy, I want you to try something first. Go out to your car and make sure that the A/C system is turned off. Then take the car out for a drive (rolling down the windows as needed) so you can get the car up to temp. The last little bit of the drive, make sure you are driving around say 40 KPH or less (want to make the fans come on). If you turn off your car and the fans turn off within a few minutes, then odds are it is not the module. If they continue to run for a long, long time, then it is almost for sure the module. If you find that you can drive the car without the A/C on and the fan work normally, but if you drive with the A/C on and turn off the car to have the fans act improperly, then odds are your problem lies with the A/C unit in the dash and it is not powering down when you turn off the car. What is happening is when you have the A/C on (especially on MAX), it will force the fans to run constantly.
#20
Hi Chris (Thermo) thanks for the reply, the car cold this morning, connected the module main connector and fan started right up, got in started and ran the car up road and to temp fan on all time driving A/C off all drive, got back homw fan still on, turned engine off left car for 2 hours enging pretty cool fan has not stopped, temp gauge gone down, A/C fan off just cooling fan on all time so as you say looks like the module.
A/C works great I replaced the compressor a little while back bought it from USA also replaced alternator as the battery light would and still does come on intermittently although battery seems to have stacks of power (technical term for not tested but seems ok) I know these have a weird charging system I wonder if I do need a battery?.
I will order a new fan module today and update after arrival and fitting.
A/C works great I replaced the compressor a little while back bought it from USA also replaced alternator as the battery light would and still does come on intermittently although battery seems to have stacks of power (technical term for not tested but seems ok) I know these have a weird charging system I wonder if I do need a battery?.
I will order a new fan module today and update after arrival and fitting.