radiator fan stuck on
#1
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hi folks I have a 2002 x type 2.1 petrol
when coming out work tonight I had a pure dead battery and after jump start the radiator fan started up and wont go of even after I stop and remove key ( hence flat battery) the car is not overheating and runs ok
any ideas would be helpful
thx
when coming out work tonight I had a pure dead battery and after jump start the radiator fan started up and wont go of even after I stop and remove key ( hence flat battery) the car is not overheating and runs ok
any ideas would be helpful
thx
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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caliman, sounds like your fan module has an internal short in it. But, before we get going too far, lets check a few things to narrow down the list of possibilities. First off, disconnect the battery and get it back to 100% via a charger. Now, with the battery fully charged, get into the driver's seat and depress the TRIP button on the end of the turn signal stalk and keep it depressed as you start the car. Keep holding it down until you see the instrument cluster message screen say "TEST" or "Engineering Test". At this point, release the TRIP button. Now, depress the TRIP button till you see XXXX C (where the XXXX will be 4 digits, this will take about 24 pressings of the button). If you go too far, press the "A/B" button to go backwards. Is the XXXX reading around say 0400 (or 40.0C) or is it up over 1000 (or 100.0C)? if it is over 1000 (most likely up at 3695), then this would indicate either a bad temp sender or there is a problem internal to the ECU (if you think a sender, then your temp gauge should be pegged at this point up at H). If the reading is below 1000, then the next step would be to connect a multimeter to the white/blue wire going to the fan control module and chassis ground. You should be seeing something under about 6 VDC most likely (if the motor is cold, then it should be at 0 VDC). If the fan is running full bore and the multimeter is reading less than 8 VDC, then you have a bad fan module. If the multimeter is reading 12 VDC and the message center was indicating a good temp, then your problem is most likely a set of crossed wires where there is a 12V battery wire touching your fan control wire (the white/blue wire) and this is applying power to command the fans to run all the time.
I hope this helps and hasn't confused you more.
I hope this helps and hasn't confused you more.
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caliman (09-01-2014)
#4
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I diagnosed mine with Thermo's help last year and it was the fan control module. If it turns out to be that, you only have 2 options: get a used one from eBay or a salvage yard, or buy new. The problem with used is that you never know when it's going to break, because eventually, this part will break. Going new is costly because you can't just buy the control module by itself, you have to get the entire fan assembly. Dealer price is $775, but Amazon (surprisingly) sells the same genuine part for much less. I only installed the fan control module (10 min job), and I have the new fan assembly stored as backup.
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