What would be the chances that anyone can help me decipher or read the live vehicle data and tell me if everything is normal? It's my next step in troubleshooting what is going on after my tuneup. Heck, even "normal ranges" for stats would help if it's easier to communicate than me responding with the data I've recorded. For example, in researching threads for 3 days I've read that the Fuel Trim should range between -8% and 8% with 0% being ideal. So you want to be as close to 0% as possible. That's about all I've uncovered. I might just suck at searching with keywords, who knows.

What about other things like:
Coolant Temp
Engine Load %
Fuel Pressure
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure
Timing Advance for Cylinder #1
Intake Air Temp (F)
Mass Air Flow Rate(g/s)
Mass Air Flow Rate(lb/min)
Absolute Throttle Position(%)
O2 Bank 1 - Sensor 2(V)
O2 Bank 1 - Sensor 2(STFT %)
O2 Bank 2 - Sensor 2(V)
O2 Bank 2 - Sensor 2(STFT %)
Wide Range O2S: Bank 1 - Sensor 1(λ)
Wide Range O2S: Bank 1 - Sensor 1(mA)
Wide Range O2S: Bank 2 - Sensor 1(λ)
Wide Range O2S: Bank 2 - Sensor 1(mA)

These are most all the reading I can track. I have no codes, just the P1111 which is normal. I'm trying to find out if the live data I have from driving around is all within normal ranges or if something (higher or lower) is an indication of where I should begin focusing. The frustration here is the car ran fine before the tune up and now it seems like the ECM and the TCM are having an argument and the TPS doesn't know what to tell the TB so everyone is just saying FU.

 

ugotmale, from the sounds of things, I would be checking the gap on the plugs. If you didn't reset/check the gap before you put them in, it may be that you are not getting a full spark from the cylinders which is making the car run a little different.

 

Thanks Thermo, I'll take a look at that. I'm assuming the shop that did the tune up gaped them properly, but that doesn't necessarily mean they did. The only way to be sure is to have done it myself. Could an improper gap account for the shift points to seemingly be off too?

Curious. In addition to the above when I let off on the gas in 5th its like it's under load or at the top of 4th, but the RPM's sit around 2500 at 60mph and switching between D and 4 support that it's in 5th gear. Same thing in 4th, feels like it's at the top of 3rd. I used to be able to let off on the gas and it would kind of glide. It also idles ever so slightly different now like the timing is slightly off or something. Most likely still plugs?

 

ugotmale, if the gap is too big, it is possible that the spark is not strong enough to ingite the cylinder properly, which would lead to a longer burn time in the cylinder, resulting in less power. This would make the car feel like it is under load. As a result, you are going to use more gas which the computer partly bases the shift point on the calculated load (ie, percent throttle) that the motor is seeing.

Also keep in mind that the gearing of the X-Type is a little higher (ie, more engine RPMs for a given MPH) than most cars have. As a result, if you are just switching over, it can make you think that the car is in a different gear than what you think it should be in. The one check that I would say to do is to get out on I-5 (or other major highway) and while at a constant speed of say 55 mph, give the car some gas like you were going to pass them in a leisurely manner. Not enough to cause the car to down shift, but push it to that edge. Do the engine RPMs come up slowly, or did the engine RPMs make an initial rise (200-300 RPM) and then slowly rise at that point. If the initial rise happens, what you may be feeling is the torque converter not locking up and as a result, as you ease off the gas, the motor will cause the car to feel funny.

Granted, part of the glide issue is if the engine is not running in tip-top shape, it can somewhat act like a load on the drivetrain and the glide is going to suffer as the engine will be effectively compression braking the car.

I used to live in Bremerton. Loved my time out there. I still make it out that way about once a year to see the grandkids.

 

It's getting to be that time of the year when we see sun sporadically for 100 days or so. Although it seems to rain more often, it's a tolerable trade off for the gorgeous summers we do get!

Thanks for the feedback I'll get it on the freeway this evening and see what I get and then I'll leave an update. I know what you mean about the gearing. One of my first posts on here was about the "funny shifting" as I put it and it being different from what I was used to. I thought there was something wrong with my tranny. Took awhile to get accustom to it.

Your feedback about the gap size of the plugs not being strong enough to ignite the cylinder if they're too big strikes a familiar cord though based on what I'm experiencing. Considering this all came about after the tune up, my issue may be more obvious than I realize. Fortunately the work is warrantied for a year so I'll take it back down once I figure out what the proper gap size is. Then next time I'll tune it up myself. You wouldn't believe where I learned how to do the tune up!

 

So I cruised the I90 tonight and the RPM's gradually increase on giving it gas with no misfire and good power throughout. So probably not the Torque converter. You mention the car feeling like it is compression braking from the engine and that is definitely a better example of what I mean by under load. It's like it was carburated. This even happens on the freeway at 65mph. I'll let off of the gas and if feels like it is compression braking. But it doesn't shift gears or anything and the RPM's remain normal. The comment I made about shifting being all over the place seems to occur between 30 and 40mphs in city driving. It's like its confused where it should be or it shifts up or down prematurely. I've got to get this fixed. What sucks is I'll let off on the gas to ease slowly into a turn or ease to a light and all of a sudden it will down shift (or compression brake) right at the same time I give it gas. Feels like a huge change in torque from the engine to the transfer case kind of like if I was driving a manual in reverse and dropped it into 1st and hit the gas. Feel like a lot of torque changing directions. It can't be good on the transfer case.

 

ugotmale, another silly question. wWhen you had the new plugs installed, did you try to get "the best plug you could" by going with one of the multiple spark spark plugs (ie, the Bosch +4's, Splitfires, etc)? If so, there is the source of your problem. The multiple spark spark plugs are great on the older cars. But the newer ones seem to really hate them. Just another thought running through my head to try and explain what is going on.

 

I too would LOVE to see someone post up their ODBII data if their Xtype is working in fantastic shape!

Any takers???!

I could post my numbers, but I'm dealing with various issues at the moment, so I don't think it would be of any help, heh.

It sounds like you've already researched this bit, but in case this one tid-bit helps:

Your Short Term Fuel Trim (STFT) % and your Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) should ideally be in the 0%-10% range. With 0% being the ideal. Wasn't sure these numbers could actually go negative? They will max out at +25% and it's either at +20% or maxed out at +25% that this will generate a check engine light. The higher %, the more fuel your fuel injectors are pumping in to make up for such things as low fuel pressure, dirty injectors, or (most commonly I believe with the X-type) vacuum leaks.

And the short term is what your jaguar is doing right now, and the long term is the averaged out values that your ECM has slowly adjusted to. SO if you fix an issue, you should notice an immediate difference with your short term, but your long term will take....well, longer... to adjust down.

 

I didn't ask what plugs they put in and just figured they'd use ones from the dealer since that's what they typically do. On the service bill the part# for the plugs is 4477. A google search comes back as NGK Laser Iridium or Bosch Platinum 4. I'll call the shop tomorrow to find out exactly what plugs they put in.

 

ugotmale, if you have the Bosch Platinum 4's installed, that may very well be your issue as that is one of the multi-spark spark plugs. Ours cars don't seem to like them.

Worst case, you can access one of the plugs really easily as you can open up the hood, look down behind the passenger headlight and remove the coil there. Then you can remove the plug. ONce you get the plug out, you can do a visual inspection (worst case, take a pic of the plug and post it here and we can give you an idea of what is going on with that cylinder based on the color of the plug).

 

I've been watching this thread and thought my info might help. My Jag is an 04 X with a 3.0 and is an automatic with 140,000 miles. I only use Marathon premium gas and I changed my plugs with Autolite double platinum a about six months ago. My Jag runs great and I get about 19mpg in town and 22 on the hwy. I have a Actron OBD 2 from Autozone.
From idle with the engine warm:
LTFTRM1-18.8
LTFTRM2-15.2
STFTRM1-2.3
STFTRM2-4.7
At 45mph
LTFTRM1-2.3
LTFTRM2-3.9
STFTRM1-3.1
STFTRM2-4.7
STFTRM22-.8%
Fuel Press.-55#
Coolant Temp-187deg.
O2S12-.620
O2S22-.780
Hope this helps. I'll keep watching. If you guys need more let me know.

 

Trims can go -ve. Are those numbers above all -ve??? The LTFT should not be so large...

 

Those are my readings as of yesterday while idling and with the cruise set at 45mph. The trims fluctuate when accelerating and coasting. At times in the negative.

 

So I just got word back. The plugs are the NGK Laser Iridium plugs. As quoted by the shop guy "Bosch +4s and those other types are crap" "I wouldn't suggest them or even put them in a newer vehicle." Kind of funny. So short of replacing the coils to see if that solves anything, I don't know what else. It's just not quite right and I can tell. The Fuel Filter was replaced so I ruled that out. Upper plenum seals were replaced at the same time as the plugs. Again it drove really smoothly when they put the dielectric grease between the plugs and coils. Seems to me it's somewhere along spark, TB, O2, Cat or injectors. Maybe I drive and just wait for a code. Can a crankcase sensor or cam sensor cause any of this?

 

Was the battery disconnected during the tune-up? I thought I read somewhere that after the battery is disconnected the ecm and tcm go through a "relearn". Maybe it's going through that and that may be why it just doesn't seem to drive correctly?

 

DKurtti, what is this "relearn" you speak of and how long does it take?! I drive 8 miles roundtrip daily, in the city/town, and I only get on the freeway on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday. My route to work is mostly downhill to a slight slope then to flat road. I probably never get it over 40mph unless I hop on the freeway for a mile, but it's not the shorter way to work. On the way back home from work it's either errands in town at 35mph-40mph first, or gradual incline to a hill headed home. Going uphill i sense a very subtle hesitation like many tiny air bubbles in a straw or hose disrupting the water flowing through it. That's how it feels uphill in the 30mph-40mph range. Twice in the last month I've had it sputter briefly uphill but I give it gas and it just powers past and it's like it never happened.

The other anomaly from after the Tune Up is the compression braking feeling mentioned above and how the shift points seemed to be off from prior to the tune. I didn't elaborate on the shifting but maybe it will help if I do. It used to go up to about 2000-2500RPM's and shift through each gear, except maybe 1st to 2nd. Now it's like it shifts from 1st to 2nd normal then goes up to 3200 or 3500 and shifts to 3rd and then again to 3200 or 3500 shifting to 4th and seems to immediately shifts to 5th at about 2500. I wouldn't otherwise suspect anything was abnormal except that if I let off of the gas to coast or slow down or anything it seems to bounce back and forth between 4th and 5th because at 35mph to 45mph it's generally around 2500RPM's. Since 2500 seems to be the shift point from 4th to 5th it's constantly shifting down or back up. I also noticed that if I am slowing down to take a corner it'll down shift from 4th to 3rd at about 2500 RPM's too. I find that odd since the shift point from3rd to 4th upon acceleration is nearer to 3500. I'm not flooring it either I'm just putting normal steady pressure on the peddle.

 

Im going to para-phrase what another member, Real_Tech, explained in another post.


"The TCM will relearn in either mode though Jaguar has always recommended the first 100 miles be done without sport mode.

I usually recommend driving normally for the simple reason that you will prefer the adaptives configured to your normal driving style rather than a method you don't normally use.

Jaguar says 100 miles for adaptive relearn but the way you drive can extend this. For instance, if you leave the dealership and jump on the highway and no shifts are made for 200 miles the procedure will be extended. I normally tell my customers 100 miles of city type stop and go driving is the best.

The TCM will continue to learn driving style. The x-type is not too bad but the 6 speed in the S, XJ and XK has more shifting complaints when 2 or more drivers use the car than when a single driver is behind the wheel."

 

Dkurtti, thanks for the insights. I'm positive I've driven more than 100 miles, but I usually do most of my driving in sport mode since I preferred the shift points. I'll cruise around in standard for a little while and that might resolve the compression braking type experience. I took it down today to have my mechanic look at it and i spent about 30min driving him around and pointing out the things that I noticed occurring which are out of the norm. He seems to be pretty confident that it's a coil pack beginning to fail, or something related, but he will have to do research to narrow it down. Maybe he's reading this post right now, ha ha ha. At any rate, my fingers are crossed they'll track down the culprit. If I had a garage I'd get my hands dirty myself, but I don't and they're a good shop and one that I trust. It's getting expensive though!

As for OBD2 readings, I've been tracking my cars diagnostics periodically based on regular driving (a mix of city and freeway) and I've logged about 5 days worth of data. I plan to track a few days of freeway specific driving and a few days of city specific driving and then logging the average results of each one too. In addition I'll be taking the data I tracked from the other 5+ days of mixed driving and periodic tracking and averaging it to one average stat per category. I can post my results if anyone is interested. Aside from the odd shift/compression braking thingy and the little misfires - that I'm tracking down the root of - my car runs pretty good. So if anyone is interested, which it seems like some are, I'll post my results on here.

 

In case anyone is on the edge of there seat in suspense, no change in my drive-ability. Shifting got better by setting it on Standard and driving it around for a bit, but as for the misfires (as I describe it) no change. As I said I noticed it is more frequent when I go uphill or on a gradual incline. No codes, no lights, no indicators of a problem. Mechanic can't track down any reasonable explanation, even checked Coils. No oil leak around the plugs. Twice now it has sputter a bit up hill in 4th, although if I put it in 3rd it just pushes through with ease. Oddly though, twice now it has surged froward slightly while at a light. Last time that happened it was my Pedal Assembly going out. The drama continues........

On another note: I'm working on the OBD2 data to update. I noticed its not as simple as putting down averages since some stats change depending on your RPMs etc.... A work in progress, but there are some things that can be averaged, like coolant temp and O2 sensor feedback. Engine load and Intake absolute pressure will vary depending on speed and RPM's. I'll explain that for everyone once I get a good guideline together.

Just wanted to update.

 

You know, just a question or a thought. I was talking to a guy today who mentioned he had a similar issue with his Audi on the very subtle misfires and had to have his cylinders cleaned out because they got dirty. Does this seem like a viable theory to explain the subtle misfiring I'm experiencing? Just wondering if it's reasonable to consider or a very long shot,