rear caliper
#21
05-06-2007, 10:02 PM
RE: rear caliper
Hey jim have you seen the black ebc rotors? I like the look of them more...but if the other one that is like yellow/goldish in color is better I'd rather do that...what do you think? I'm going to have to do a brake job soon because the brakes are starting to make some nice high pitched noises on occasion!
#22
05-07-2007, 01:48 PM
#23
05-07-2007, 01:58 PM
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Posts: n/a
RE: rear caliper
I am glad that Jim found his new Audi brakes to be really excellent... that make me at least feel that my x-type brakes might be normal.. I have complained that they are nowhere near as good as the German brakes.
I put ceramic Red Stuff pads front and rear with cheap drilled rotors ( they were the cheapest rotors I could find and the seller was right here in London Ontario.
They were really excellent with the break in coating (sandpaper type finish on the new pads) then after that was worn off the brakes are average.. they were certainly crappy before I changed them.
Dust is also basically gone with the ceramic pads. The first cold stop or two is not great. they are Ok when warmed up.
I kept thinking there was something wrong with the brakes since the pedal was always soft and the travel was long. I learned that if I applied the handbrake a little before the brakes, they would be much better.
So I did some agressive stopping and pulling on the hand brake in order to get the self-adjusting screw to advance a bit on the rear calipers. This worked well.
The brakes are now working decently, nothing like the bite of audi/BMW OEM brakes but I think I will live with them
Note my care has the front end on stands now as I deal with the broken subframe bolt. I found the slot on the redstuff pads totally clogged with guck and also all the cross drilled holes on the inside of the front discs... I will let you know how things work after the new bolt arrives tomorrow.
I put ceramic Red Stuff pads front and rear with cheap drilled rotors ( they were the cheapest rotors I could find and the seller was right here in London Ontario.
They were really excellent with the break in coating (sandpaper type finish on the new pads) then after that was worn off the brakes are average.. they were certainly crappy before I changed them.
Dust is also basically gone with the ceramic pads. The first cold stop or two is not great. they are Ok when warmed up.
I kept thinking there was something wrong with the brakes since the pedal was always soft and the travel was long. I learned that if I applied the handbrake a little before the brakes, they would be much better.
So I did some agressive stopping and pulling on the hand brake in order to get the self-adjusting screw to advance a bit on the rear calipers. This worked well.
The brakes are now working decently, nothing like the bite of audi/BMW OEM brakes but I think I will live with them
Note my care has the front end on stands now as I deal with the broken subframe bolt. I found the slot on the redstuff pads totally clogged with guck and also all the cross drilled holes on the inside of the front discs... I will let you know how things work after the new bolt arrives tomorrow.
#24
05-07-2007, 04:41 PM
RE: rear caliper
I tend to like the brakes on my jag...I hardly have to push the brake pedal for it to stop...my sisters grand prix took a long while to get used to because if you want to stop you almost have to have the pedal to the floor...and her car is pretty new and the rotors and pads were replaced at the dealer before she got it. Love to see what the german brakes are like if you don't like the jags brakes! Than again it could also be with your particular car afterall you have had a shotty experience with yours...You ever try to test drive a newer one and see if it is jag in general or just yours???
#25
05-07-2007, 05:31 PM
#27
05-07-2007, 10:56 PM
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RE: rear caliper
ORIGINAL: aquill1
Hey jim have you seen the black ebc rotors? I like the look of them more...but if the other one that is like yellow/goldish in color is better I'd rather do that...what do you think? I'm going to have to do a brake job soon because the brakes are starting to make some nice high pitched noises on occasion!
Hey jim have you seen the black ebc rotors? I like the look of them more...but if the other one that is like yellow/goldish in color is better I'd rather do that...what do you think? I'm going to have to do a brake job soon because the brakes are starting to make some nice high pitched noises on occasion!
I really like the gold (zinc plated I think) rotors slotted grooved........together with redstuff for serious stopping power.
Bo......you got redstuff pads mate..good for you! Maybe though the slightly more expensive rotors would have been a better partnership?
I honestly feel that the brakes on the X are the worst I have ever used, and I've used a few on different cars over the years. I just feel that for such a heavy car, sometimes I feel that I'm just not gonna stop in time and I'm really ON the brakes too!
The Audi is like night n day...........bigger and heavier than the X and it stops on a postage stamp.........apply the brakes an Bam.........stopped, no messin!
JC
#28
05-07-2007, 11:26 PM
#29
05-07-2007, 11:28 PM
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#30
05-08-2007, 10:20 AM
RE: rear caliper
Here's the site jimmy http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Automotive.html. They are the black anodised towards the very bottom of the page....
[IMG]local://upfiles/674/CB369A6BCB1B4CD784A5B3C763BC67E2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/674/CB369A6BCB1B4CD784A5B3C763BC67E2.jpg[/IMG]
#33
05-12-2007, 07:18 AM
#35
08-17-2008, 05:07 PM
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Posts: n/a
RE: rear caliper
Aloha
I just finished replacing my pads and I couldn't have done it if I had not found this site!!! Front pads were the easiest I have ever changed!!! As for the rear, I was a little perplexed till I read the suggestions on this site. Once I got the calipers off, I found that by loosening the bleeder screw and using a 1/2 inch wide screwdriver - push and turn at the same time - it went in easily.The bad newsUnfortunately, I will have to replace the rotors within a year.
The brakes were working fine, I just replaced them because theDEALER said they needed replacing. The front pads had about 1/4 inches left and the rear pads had a little overan 1/8 inch left.
Note: Loosen the bleeder screw just a little to keep air from entering the system and install the rubber caps after tightening!
Aloha and Mahalo....Hawaiian in Missouri
I just finished replacing my pads and I couldn't have done it if I had not found this site!!! Front pads were the easiest I have ever changed!!! As for the rear, I was a little perplexed till I read the suggestions on this site. Once I got the calipers off, I found that by loosening the bleeder screw and using a 1/2 inch wide screwdriver - push and turn at the same time - it went in easily.The bad newsUnfortunately, I will have to replace the rotors within a year.
The brakes were working fine, I just replaced them because theDEALER said they needed replacing. The front pads had about 1/4 inches left and the rear pads had a little overan 1/8 inch left.
Note: Loosen the bleeder screw just a little to keep air from entering the system and install the rubber caps after tightening!
Aloha and Mahalo....Hawaiian in Missouri
#36
08-17-2008, 05:37 PM
RE: rear caliper
Aloha..Macadamia Nuts rule..[8D]
Since you're a pro at it now..It wouldn't hurt to attach a small rubber hose to the bleed nipple and crack it open while someone is pressing on the brake pedal then retighten before the pedal is released again, do this a couple of times on all four calipers, making sure the brake fluid reservoir never gets too low either..this will push out any air, that might have been trapped while you were changing the pads and any old fluid...Because brake fluid in the calipers is the worse in the system, everything settles to the lowest point..And Brake fluid attracts moisture too, so this way you freshen up the fluid too.
Bleed in this pattern;
Since you're a pro at it now..It wouldn't hurt to attach a small rubber hose to the bleed nipple and crack it open while someone is pressing on the brake pedal then retighten before the pedal is released again, do this a couple of times on all four calipers, making sure the brake fluid reservoir never gets too low either..this will push out any air, that might have been trapped while you were changing the pads and any old fluid...Because brake fluid in the calipers is the worse in the system, everything settles to the lowest point..And Brake fluid attracts moisture too, so this way you freshen up the fluid too.
Bleed in this pattern;
#37
08-17-2008, 10:18 PM
Senior Member
#39
08-18-2008, 09:41 PM
Senior Member
RE: rear caliper
Have driven BMW's - both 3's and 5's. Still don't have a big problem with my X's brakes.However after I replaced the OEM rears with Friction Master pads, they actually got noticeably more effective. Still running OEM fronts - not sure what brand Jag put on the 06's, but, they seem to work ok. The rears I took off were Akebonos, and, they got really noisy.
Regards:
Oldengineer
Regards:
Oldengineer
#40
08-20-2008, 06:16 PM
RE: rear caliper
I did my LEFT rear pads here a month ago due to a sticking e-brake on that side...it burned my pads up in about a week!
Definitely check that the E-brake cable mechanisim fully relaxes when the handle is put back down. My right side did, but my left did not, even after soaking it with some AeroKroil. I ended up just disconnecting the cable to the caliper mechanisim on the left side to avoid any premature pad wear again.
The left side caliper must be turned in C-Clockwise and the right side is Clockwise. The reason they screw in is due to how the E-brakes work by mechanically rotating the piston in the bore just enough to apply pressure on the pads thus grabbing the rotor.
I ended up using a C-clamp and a pair of channel locks to move the piston back in the bore. I would get the proper tool if I was doing this often though.
The JTIS CD I have outlined this procedure pretty well.
Overall, I wish the X-type had bigger brakes or perhaps some more aggressive pads with a higher coeficient or friction. I am looking to try EBC reds next on the front.
They certainly do not compare to the 4-pistons brembos I had on my Porsche 944S2 or the BIG brakes on the 04'911. I do have stock calipers on my 83' 944 but with race pads and it brakes hard with still having single piston calipers!
Anyone know if there are Stainless Steel braided lines available for the X-type? I had them on all my Porsches and I like how they firmed the pedal up!Plus I felt better about replacing 25y/o rubber lines!
Definitely check that the E-brake cable mechanisim fully relaxes when the handle is put back down. My right side did, but my left did not, even after soaking it with some AeroKroil. I ended up just disconnecting the cable to the caliper mechanisim on the left side to avoid any premature pad wear again.
The left side caliper must be turned in C-Clockwise and the right side is Clockwise. The reason they screw in is due to how the E-brakes work by mechanically rotating the piston in the bore just enough to apply pressure on the pads thus grabbing the rotor.
I ended up using a C-clamp and a pair of channel locks to move the piston back in the bore. I would get the proper tool if I was doing this often though.
The JTIS CD I have outlined this procedure pretty well.
Overall, I wish the X-type had bigger brakes or perhaps some more aggressive pads with a higher coeficient or friction. I am looking to try EBC reds next on the front.
They certainly do not compare to the 4-pistons brembos I had on my Porsche 944S2 or the BIG brakes on the 04'911. I do have stock calipers on my 83' 944 but with race pads and it brakes hard with still having single piston calipers!
Anyone know if there are Stainless Steel braided lines available for the X-type? I had them on all my Porsches and I like how they firmed the pedal up!Plus I felt better about replacing 25y/o rubber lines!