X-Type ( X400 ) 2001 - 2009
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right front C V axle replacement

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  #21  
Old 08-16-2017 | 12:12 AM
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Thank you ThomasX and bob for these replies. I'm just gonna inspect the inner seals as best as I can, lightly grease the snap-ring and coax the new axle back in there.

If that "mid shaft" is supposed to be part the tcase I sure wish a new one didn't come attached to my new axle- looking like one fine piece of kit! I have 15 years if experience as a shadetree mechanic and I'm feeling aome serious pain from this mistake- and as much as I try to always look at my role in any problem/situation, I kinda want to slap an old british engineer right now..

Fuh!
 
  #22  
Old 08-16-2017 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
You bolt one end to the case and the round peg goes into the splined end of the shaft.

The shaft cannot be removed far enough to damage a seal but far enough if you need to remove the transfer case.

Illustration 18 on page 15 of the attached TSB shows how to use the tool.

bob
Thanks. So maybe I missed something, but the tool won't help with spliting the axle at all. It's just there to hold it after it's been done?
 
  #23  
Old 08-16-2017 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Spikepaga
Thanks. So maybe I missed something, but the tool won't help with spliting the axle at all. It's just there to hold it after it's been done?
The tool is used to keep the 'through-shaft' from getting too far out of the case and possibly damage the seals when the case is removed from the gearbox.

bob
 
  #24  
Old 03-29-2018 | 03:02 AM
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Hi Everyone,

I'm new here and will be going this morning to look at a 2003 X-Type 2.5 that will be gifted to me. I could have taken this Cat 2 years ago but I didn't need a car at the time. So in speaking with my friend last evening I found out it what he meant by center transfer case was not a center support bearing as he said it leaked? He had replaced the right CV joint and pull it out in one shot in one piece and replaced it the same way. Yes, IT LEAKS very badly now. The dealer or mechanic wanted an arm and a leg to repair it. I have a couple of question to this problem:

1) Is the fluid that's leaking Transmission fluid?
2) I read the entire post - may be a little too quickly but it's seems it requires a tearing down or apart in order to replace the seals?
3) Is there a post on fixing this problem? Thank you in advance for your help.

Blessings,
BKM
 
  #25  
Old 08-06-2018 | 12:01 AM
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[QUOTE=Spikepaga;1741303]Not much that I can say about the seal, because I have not had to replace this yet, but I did buy the special Jaguar tool- found someone selling it used for 20 bucks- and I wonder how it works, exactly




This a Shaft Limiter Bracket
 
  #26  
Old 03-07-2019 | 07:44 PM
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Ok, so I know this is an old thread, but I am a new wrencher to this cat. I have a couple of questions, first, has anyone put the through-shaft back in without the clip at all, and ran the car that way? I, reluctantly, pulled the shaft out slowly, turning along the way, as was described in another thread (I've read soooo many of them now). It came out surprisingly easy, then I seen why. There was no clip on it at all. It doesn't appear that it had any issues running without it. But I don't want to risk a catastrophe....
Second, I didn't destroy it, but I mauled the seal between the two shafts a little trying to remove it. Has anyone found a suitable replacement to use, an o ring or maybe some other plumbing seal, or ????
Thanks in advance for any help and input anyone has.

Bobby
 

Last edited by BJagged; 03-07-2019 at 07:54 PM.
  #27  
Old 03-09-2019 | 09:42 AM
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Default Oil seal info

If you check my post from couple of years back, it has the info on the seals, they cost about $7 each from rockauto.com, along with information on how I changed the seals
 
  #28  
Old 03-09-2019 | 09:53 AM
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SKF 10181 ( 26 X 40 X 8 mm) available from rockauto.com for about $6 each
 
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  #29  
Old 07-21-2020 | 04:20 PM
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Default Left and right the same?

Hi,
thanks for the good information on this thread.
I wonder if the right CV axle is the same as the left one.
Because there are right ones that you can not split. Like in this link:
https://www.daparto.de/Teilenummernsuche/GSP/218240

This one :
Https://www.daparto.de/Teilenummernsuche/GSP/218027 is for the left side, if I use the spilt method can I use it for the right side?
 
  #30  
Old 09-12-2020 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ThomasX
Whoops, this is what came out following some other instructions.

Removed it very carefully and didn't notice any hangups on the way.

Any chance the aforementioned seal is still intact?


hello there my fellow x-type owner if I tell you it's a full life's journey trying to find any kind of assistance for any automotive work for our series. But im having this same issues right now my front passenger cv has gone out on me. It's my Own fault tbh. Now my question is this the long rod at the end of the CV axle does that have to be removed in order for me to replace my new cv axle in its place? And what does the pin look like I'd hate to damage anything on my car and the fact I know nothing of jag I am in love with my x-type....lol
 
  #31  
Old 09-12-2020 | 08:08 PM
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The RH CV axle shaft is NOT to be removed complete as shown!!!!!!!!!!!!

The axle is SUPPOSED to be split where the seal protection shroud is at the base of the inner CV assy.

The 'through-shaft' is supposed to stay in the transaxle/transfer case.
 
  #32  
Old 09-03-2023 | 01:57 PM
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Found this thread a little too late.
 
  #33  
Old 07-15-2024 | 07:42 PM
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Default Inner shaft came out with the cv axle

Hey new to the car and the forums. When I pulled my cv axle I found this forum much too late and had it all pulled out as one unit. Didn’t even realize it was supposed to be 2 separate parts until install. It came out with a light tap and no clip of any sort on the end which confused me to begin with but didn’t think anything of it since. Trying to put it all back in as one peice again I rotated it till splines lined up and with a light push my hand it clicked in about 10” so 3.5” roughly still sticking out. After that I noticed it wouldn’t come out again and it also wouldn’t go in any further,

stuck in a pickle here and can’t figure out why the heck it’s stuck
 
  #34  
Old 07-16-2024 | 09:29 AM
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Hi Jimmy, welcome to the forum.

When I did mine (2004.5 X-Type Sport 115k miles), first went to YouTube and watched a guy do the exact same thing. He reinstalled it & all was good. However, if you see the video, there are no comments.

YouTube videos are a good video resource, but some can get you into trouble. Why they are still on line is anyone's guess. There are other good resources: IATN (international automotive technicians network) & All Data. Both are subscription based. JTIS is another resource- it's free.

What confused me was the new CV joint/intermediate shaft came as an assembled unit- just like any other one I had ever replaced on other vehicles. Looking around afterwards, found replacement right side CV joints without the intermediate shaft. <expletive deleted> My fault for not doing all the homework.

You probably noticed a lot of transmission fluid spew out. I wasn't prepared & my pan overflowed. Funny as after pulling the intermediate shaft, there was a delay in the fluid spewing out. Why? Because the transfer case fills up first with ATF out of the transmission (if automatic) before overflowing. Cleaned up the mess, ate dinner & then went to the forum.

Felt like a horse's rear end afterwards. But it might not be that bad (depending on your skillset - every situation is different & you often won't know until you get into it. I would call this a shade tree 300-level job.

Have been a member of the forum for years & benefited from Thermo's (Chris) posts. You can see my response to this thread on 9/3/2023. Looks like I neglected to followup. My bad.

Read all you did & some about something slipping down or the spring clip tearing a seal & that the only way was to first separate the intermediate shaft off the half shaft. Rats.

Have a PhD from the SHK (school of hard knocks) along with 50+ years experience in rebuilding engines, transmissions, & more. I disregard the worst & continue as if nothing had happened (same as the video). It's kinda like a crime scene- every one is different. Just worry about the facts...

Used a borescope & looked inside the transfer case/transmission. Guess what? Nothing had slipped & nothing looked damaged. Image is distorted. I normally replace seals, but there was no way I was going to remove the transfer case. But if you don't look, you'll never know. Borescopes are cheap & have saved my hide more times than I remember.



The little clip on the end of the intermediate shaft (the one that might tear seals) was not outside the groove. Measured the OD of the axle sealing surface & then the OD over the splines at the end & looked like there was 40 thousandths difference. Hmm? Looked like I was safe as there was no way the clip could have contacted a seal.




Having pulled a bunch CV joints/half shafts over the years, when I pulled it, I pulled it out straight, but then that's the only way it comes out. So guess what? What might be the worst that can happen if I continue as if nothing had happened?

My last position before retiring was troubleshooting/repairing electrical & mechanical systems around the country that others said weren't reparable. Hadn't seen any damage & I don't worry about what ifs- just what is.

Would often fly to a location & briefed by the local engineers/technicians who were often frustrated as no one likes their rear end kicked & have to call an "outsider". I would thank them & then forget everything they told me. Why? Often times they'd get tunnel vision & find themselves running in circles. Don't do that. Remember Occam's Razor.

Reassembled with the opening on the clip at the 12-o'clock position (looks like a U). If you don't, the clip can get caught- which sounds like where you are at. Check this out:

Drained the transfer case & topped up the transmission. Thanks to Thermo, changed all the fluids a few years prior. Lifetime fluids?- my rear end. If I recall correctly, the transfer case was only half full the first time I drained the fluid.

Flushing & refilling transfer case is a little tricky unless you've serviced engines where the drain & fill plugs are the same.

My seal test was topping the transmission & seeing if any fluid drained out of the transfer case. Seal was good.

As of the other day, it's still running good.

Are you using a new clip? Make sure the opening is at 12 o'clock & then try again. If new, might need a little persuasion with a wooden/rubber mallet.

Hang in there.

Tony


 

Last edited by Backhertz; 07-16-2024 at 10:02 AM.
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  #35  
Old 09-09-2024 | 02:33 PM
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It’s been over a year since I pulled the intermediate shaft out after watching a YouTube (see also Boobtube) video without first coming to the forum.

You don’t want to do this.

I lucked out. No torn seals. Only problem was when the intermediate shaft came out, the transfer case filled up with ATF. Once the transfer case was full, the remaining ATF came spewed out of the transfer case. Forget how much.

Not a big deal. With the intermediate shaft out, it was easier to flush the transfer case. Once that was done, the intermediate shaft went back into the transmission in line any other shaft.

There is a trick: make sure the little clip has the opening at 12 o’clock. Reassemble & fill the transfer case & top up with ATF.

Scored a great on 4 new half shafts & rear hub & bearing assemblies.

This time guess what I’m not gonna do? Flushing & filling the transfer case takes time. I have a lot of other more important things to do. So I will be separating the intermediate shaft.

If I didn’t love this car, it would be long gone. It’s a 2004 Sport with 117k miles. Replaced the headliner during Covid-had nothing better to do…

In Aug 2020 modified the car with two 8” ports to access the fuel pump & the slave pickup. There is no expletive deleted way I will ever drop the fuel tank again.

The ports provide access- just like the ports on the S- Type. Takes a little effort though. Welsh Enterprises carries an OEM style pump motor that snaps right in. Total cost of the fuel pump repair? About $100.

Last but not least was removing the intake manifold & replacing the upper & lower gaskets. Also serviced the fuel injectors & replaced all the o-rings. Be careful as one of the resellers has the wrong size o-rings.

I’m retired, so have time to play.







 
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  #36  
Old 09-12-2024 | 09:46 PM
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FWIW, When I replaced the trans on my x-type back in 2016, I couldn't separate the passenger axle from the intermediate shaft so I pulled it completely out as one assembly. I knew there was a risk but I took it. It's been fine for over 8 years and 50k miles.
 
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